Marking on a quilt
11-06-2010, 07:09 PM
#41
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Washburn, North Dakota
Posts: 257
Feathers should ALWAYS stitch "clockwise" direction, if making waves of feathers
or circles of feathers or feathers following around the border, have them
flowing clockwise. And ALWAYS give your feathers a border, draw a line away
from your stem line, and run your loops out to that line to create your feather.
Also, leave a little border between the feather and the 'ditch' of the pieced
block, this allows the feather to pop/stand out. When creating feathers use 3
sizes in the loops, this is called Frackle/a repeated pattern. When doing
circles, the largest circle divided by 1/3s this is the sizes of the 3 circles
you should use for fill space (which is stipple). Circles always go to the
left, never back and forth like a figure 8. And if your circle isn't perfect,
do NOT restitch it 2-3 times trying to make it a round circle, just move on.
ALWAYS stop at a beginning point, never the middle of a circle or feather loop.
And always work back to the beginning before the next loop.
When using a contrasting thread or varigated thread, you must be more accurate.
Blended threads are more forgiving.
Judges will notice the border/binding and backing even more than your piece
work. Break up one large border feathering with caviots (diamonds or swirls) to
make it interesting.
When stitching "rays" always stitch the center, then the outer two, then the
inner lines.
Decide the width of your "echo" stitching, by using the foot, either inner or
outer circle width from the needle.
Never mark a quilt with chalk, these new Frixion pens work beautifully,
disappear completely with the iron. The pens are from 'Pilot', found at Office
Depot or Office Max or Staples.
When quilting, do your "free motion" stitching FIRST, then do your ditch work
frame stitching... this is opposite of what most have been taught, but keeps
quilt from puckering.
Stitch from the center out on blocks, and always one continuous line following
back to the beginning over stitches, why using an embroidery ball needle is
important, it won't cut threads like quilting sharp needles do.
I had learned before to do ditch stitching first...but what she taught made sense, and hey, she's the one winning awards, I paid to learn, right.
or circles of feathers or feathers following around the border, have them
flowing clockwise. And ALWAYS give your feathers a border, draw a line away
from your stem line, and run your loops out to that line to create your feather.
Also, leave a little border between the feather and the 'ditch' of the pieced
block, this allows the feather to pop/stand out. When creating feathers use 3
sizes in the loops, this is called Frackle/a repeated pattern. When doing
circles, the largest circle divided by 1/3s this is the sizes of the 3 circles
you should use for fill space (which is stipple). Circles always go to the
left, never back and forth like a figure 8. And if your circle isn't perfect,
do NOT restitch it 2-3 times trying to make it a round circle, just move on.
ALWAYS stop at a beginning point, never the middle of a circle or feather loop.
And always work back to the beginning before the next loop.
When using a contrasting thread or varigated thread, you must be more accurate.
Blended threads are more forgiving.
Judges will notice the border/binding and backing even more than your piece
work. Break up one large border feathering with caviots (diamonds or swirls) to
make it interesting.
When stitching "rays" always stitch the center, then the outer two, then the
inner lines.
Decide the width of your "echo" stitching, by using the foot, either inner or
outer circle width from the needle.
Never mark a quilt with chalk, these new Frixion pens work beautifully,
disappear completely with the iron. The pens are from 'Pilot', found at Office
Depot or Office Max or Staples.
When quilting, do your "free motion" stitching FIRST, then do your ditch work
frame stitching... this is opposite of what most have been taught, but keeps
quilt from puckering.
Stitch from the center out on blocks, and always one continuous line following
back to the beginning over stitches, why using an embroidery ball needle is
important, it won't cut threads like quilting sharp needles do.
I had learned before to do ditch stitching first...but what she taught made sense, and hey, she's the one winning awards, I paid to learn, right.
11-06-2010, 07:10 PM
#42
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Washburn, North Dakota
Posts: 257
There is a "slider" plastic with a needle hole, put this on your machine,
eliminates static, and she uses 100wt Silk thread (22-25 stitch/inch) to quilt.
3 strands of thread should float through the eye of your needle.
5 strands of thread lined up next to each other is the shortest stitch you
should use, and never more than 8 threads wide.
***If your using a long arm machine, even the smaller short arms, you can control
bounce with bags filled with rice, she uses a hand towel stitched shut down
center & both ends, filled with rice, and sometimes she'll use 1-2-3 bags, to
eliminate bounce of the quilt and keep it taught. If you have any hand tremour,
even just from being tired or nervous or a little weak/illness, use weighted
gloves. They were on sale at JoAnns (bright green items) that help your 'body'
for sewing, these avg. $20-25 on sale for $3-5.
She also sewn her own leaders, the width of the area you can stitch on your long
arm, with a 1"PVC pipe sewn into a sleeve at one end where your long arm table
clamps will hold onto. Then she uses 'T' pins to pin the leader to the
bottom/back of your quilt, this gives a more even tension than clamps alone.
Sharon Shamber always floats her tops. She will load the back fabric, & roll
all to the back, alwys first. She never presses, she uses Starch, spray the
fabric, and wait a minute and wrinkles magically disappear. Sew velgro to both
leaders & use water soluble thread to the other velcro to your backing so you
can remove the quilt...or best is to finish one quilt first. When you load it,
measure with tape measure around the leader poles at both ends and middle to
make sure your poles have not warped or bend, this will distort your quilt...if
you have flimsy poles, put a thick dowel or PVC through center of your poles, to
stabilize & strengthen them, or replace with thicker stronger polls.
Baste the 3 layers (top, batting, backing) to the north pole/top roller. Baste
at sashing or grid lines you've folded in, horizontally using your long arm to
baste across. Baste as you go, not the whole quilt, but as you roll it forward
to each new section.
Well, I hope all my notes have helped. LOTS of things to think of.
Deb D
eliminates static, and she uses 100wt Silk thread (22-25 stitch/inch) to quilt.
3 strands of thread should float through the eye of your needle.
5 strands of thread lined up next to each other is the shortest stitch you
should use, and never more than 8 threads wide.
***If your using a long arm machine, even the smaller short arms, you can control
bounce with bags filled with rice, she uses a hand towel stitched shut down
center & both ends, filled with rice, and sometimes she'll use 1-2-3 bags, to
eliminate bounce of the quilt and keep it taught. If you have any hand tremour,
even just from being tired or nervous or a little weak/illness, use weighted
gloves. They were on sale at JoAnns (bright green items) that help your 'body'
for sewing, these avg. $20-25 on sale for $3-5.
She also sewn her own leaders, the width of the area you can stitch on your long
arm, with a 1"PVC pipe sewn into a sleeve at one end where your long arm table
clamps will hold onto. Then she uses 'T' pins to pin the leader to the
bottom/back of your quilt, this gives a more even tension than clamps alone.
Sharon Shamber always floats her tops. She will load the back fabric, & roll
all to the back, alwys first. She never presses, she uses Starch, spray the
fabric, and wait a minute and wrinkles magically disappear. Sew velgro to both
leaders & use water soluble thread to the other velcro to your backing so you
can remove the quilt...or best is to finish one quilt first. When you load it,
measure with tape measure around the leader poles at both ends and middle to
make sure your poles have not warped or bend, this will distort your quilt...if
you have flimsy poles, put a thick dowel or PVC through center of your poles, to
stabilize & strengthen them, or replace with thicker stronger polls.
Baste the 3 layers (top, batting, backing) to the north pole/top roller. Baste
at sashing or grid lines you've folded in, horizontally using your long arm to
baste across. Baste as you go, not the whole quilt, but as you roll it forward
to each new section.
Well, I hope all my notes have helped. LOTS of things to think of.
Deb D
11-06-2010, 10:25 PM
#43
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Hawaii
Posts: 833
Deb D
Thank you thank you thank you for all of the notes! Wow! I have never seen anything so thoroughly explained. Thank you for finding all of that info for me. I bet that was just an awesome class to take. I really appreciate the tips. Definitely something I will be referencing back on. You should start a new thread a repost everything you just shared with me. So much useful info to share. Thank you so much.
Thank you thank you thank you for all of the notes! Wow! I have never seen anything so thoroughly explained. Thank you for finding all of that info for me. I bet that was just an awesome class to take. I really appreciate the tips. Definitely something I will be referencing back on. You should start a new thread a repost everything you just shared with me. So much useful info to share. Thank you so much.
11-06-2010, 10:28 PM
#44
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Hawaii
Posts: 833
Originally Posted by featherweight
Guess there was not enough room above for my comment. Yes, they are with the pens. One store had them and the next one didn't. Went to Staples and they had them 3 for 5.50. one red one blk and one blue. We paid 4.00 apiece for them at the quilt show before we found them at the store for half the price.
11-06-2010, 11:21 PM
#45
Power Poster
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 15,639
I have a silver pencil and a yellow pencil. Both are for fabric marking. Not only do you need to worry about how to REMOVE the line, but you also need to check which type of marker shows up well and lasts on your fabric.
I would suggest that you test on a piece of scrap to see how to remove <whatever> method you use. There are fabric erasers and there are washcloths and a bit of soap.
I would suggest that you test on a piece of scrap to see how to remove <whatever> method you use. There are fabric erasers and there are washcloths and a bit of soap.
11-07-2010, 06:35 AM
#47
Super Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Westminster, Co
Posts: 2,675
Originally Posted by LovinMySoldier
Originally Posted by featherweight
Guess there was not enough room above for my comment. Yes, they are with the pens. One store had them and the next one didn't. Went to Staples and they had them 3 for 5.50. one red one blk and one blue. We paid 4.00 apiece for them at the quilt show before we found them at the store for half the price.
11-07-2010, 09:27 AM
#49
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Washburn, North Dakota
Posts: 257
I meant a quilt you don't put a lot of expensive fabric into or extreme detail...to me, those are my crap quilts, simple patterns & JoAnn fabrics. Not that the quality of the quilt is crap, or I'm making crap to donate. I really should have used a different word..."more simple" quilts. I'm sorry... over medicated cold here, not thinking.
11-07-2010, 09:59 AM
#50
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Hawaii
Posts: 833
Originally Posted by stevendebbie25
I meant a quilt you don't put a lot of expensive fabric into or extreme detail...to me, those are my crap quilts, simple patterns & JoAnn fabrics. Not that the quality of the quilt is crap, or I'm making crap to donate. I really should have used a different word..."more simple" quilts. I'm sorry... over medicated cold here, not thinking.
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