my guidelines and rules
#1
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Join Date: May 2008
Location: MN
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i have read over and over and over "it's your quilt - there are no rules/laws!"
i do have quidelines/techniques/steps in the process that matter to me.
in general, i think a top should lay flat and have 90 degree corners and not pull apart at the seams.
are there some things that "matter" to you more than others?
i do have quidelines/techniques/steps in the process that matter to me.
in general, i think a top should lay flat and have 90 degree corners and not pull apart at the seams.
are there some things that "matter" to you more than others?
#2
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Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 594
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I'm kinda fixated on the size of stitches in the FMQ right now. Usually, not such a big problem that I rip out much, but, still, I don't have a warm fuzzy feeling about a finished quilt that I was not able to keep stitching somewhat uniform.
#4
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Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 2,867
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I agree with bearisgray and have to add that my seams have to match - I wish I could relax that one a little. I have an unfinished quilt because I'm going to lose some points when I apply the binding. I miscalculated my setting triangles when I set it on point. It was to be for me, but now that won't work.
#5
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Join Date: May 2009
Location: NY
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Accurate block placement and placement of units within a block. If I accidentally sew a block into the quilt the wrong way or have accidentally inverted a unit within a block, like say there is a 4P unit in the block and I have sewn it into the quilt so that the dark unit in the patchwork is where the light unit should be, I will take it apart and resew it as long as the quilt is still a flimsy. Even if the misplaced block is in the center and will be a royal pain to fix, I will fix it. If it is already quilted I leave it but get rid of the quilt. Either donate or gift it to someone who doesn't care. My eye is drawn to the mistake every time and will zap all the joy out of the quilt for me (which is why I pass it on). For me, once it is seen it can't be unseen. But that is just for me and my quilts. Someone else's, I do try to bring it to their attention if I can and it isn't too late so they have the option of correcting it before it is quilted (just in case they feel the same way I do) but otherwise I say nothing.
Other rules for my own quilts and quilting:
Well constructed, lays flat and quilt is square. Being truly square (IOW my corners are at a 90 degree angle) is a big thing for me because I quilt using a LA and it is a royal pain to load an out of square quilt. Intersecting units line up to within 1/8" anything off more than that I take apart and redo because it will bug me. Same rule for chopped points if I have only chopped 1/8" it is good enough. More than that, I take apart and redo. Good tension in quilting, for my own quilts I can live with the occasional pokie on the back but not if the quilt is for show or for a client, then I rip and redo.
I always, without deviation, measure and cut my sashings and borders to size before sewing them on. This helps to ensure a nice square quilt that will lay flat. If I have mitered borders, I will measure and cut but give myself a little wiggle room for the miter. (usually an extra inch or two). But I still measure and mark and pin for the inside part that will be sewn to the quilt body.
If the quilt is for a show I up my game considerably. I won't allow any chopped points or intersections that aren't spot on.
I prefer to work with 100% cotton fabric when piecing. That is from experience of working with other things (blends and synthetics) and not enjoying how the blend or synthetic behaved so I didn't enjoy working with that fabric. I do like wool applique and probably wouldn't hesitate to mix wool with cotton in a quilt. I also won't hesitate to mix different kinds of cottons, like batik and a print or even mix in a flannel with regular cotton or a stablized cotton T-shirt knit with regular quilting cotton or heavy denim. I haven't yet used silk or the silk cotton blend "Radiance" but I think I would like to work with that as well. I know it shows off quilting beautifully.
I do like to use lots of different threads, cotton, poly, silk and all different weights. It is amazing how different threads and different weights of threads can be used in quilting and embellishing and can have so much impact on the finished piece. For piecing I stick to fine thread to improve my accuracy. Again I won't hesitate to mix cotton and poly threads in piecing. My standard combo is aurifil cotton on top and Bottom Line polyester in the bobbin. Unless I find something I like better, or one of these products gets discontinued, I won't deviate from it.
I am a rebel and iron more than I press! But I don't use steam and I only spritz with a spray bottle when I am ironing yardage so have not distorted anything by ironing (as opposed to pressing).
I'm sure I have many other self imposed quilting rules but these are the ones that come to mind.
Other rules for my own quilts and quilting:
Well constructed, lays flat and quilt is square. Being truly square (IOW my corners are at a 90 degree angle) is a big thing for me because I quilt using a LA and it is a royal pain to load an out of square quilt. Intersecting units line up to within 1/8" anything off more than that I take apart and redo because it will bug me. Same rule for chopped points if I have only chopped 1/8" it is good enough. More than that, I take apart and redo. Good tension in quilting, for my own quilts I can live with the occasional pokie on the back but not if the quilt is for show or for a client, then I rip and redo.
I always, without deviation, measure and cut my sashings and borders to size before sewing them on. This helps to ensure a nice square quilt that will lay flat. If I have mitered borders, I will measure and cut but give myself a little wiggle room for the miter. (usually an extra inch or two). But I still measure and mark and pin for the inside part that will be sewn to the quilt body.
If the quilt is for a show I up my game considerably. I won't allow any chopped points or intersections that aren't spot on.
I prefer to work with 100% cotton fabric when piecing. That is from experience of working with other things (blends and synthetics) and not enjoying how the blend or synthetic behaved so I didn't enjoy working with that fabric. I do like wool applique and probably wouldn't hesitate to mix wool with cotton in a quilt. I also won't hesitate to mix different kinds of cottons, like batik and a print or even mix in a flannel with regular cotton or a stablized cotton T-shirt knit with regular quilting cotton or heavy denim. I haven't yet used silk or the silk cotton blend "Radiance" but I think I would like to work with that as well. I know it shows off quilting beautifully.
I do like to use lots of different threads, cotton, poly, silk and all different weights. It is amazing how different threads and different weights of threads can be used in quilting and embellishing and can have so much impact on the finished piece. For piecing I stick to fine thread to improve my accuracy. Again I won't hesitate to mix cotton and poly threads in piecing. My standard combo is aurifil cotton on top and Bottom Line polyester in the bobbin. Unless I find something I like better, or one of these products gets discontinued, I won't deviate from it.
I am a rebel and iron more than I press! But I don't use steam and I only spritz with a spray bottle when I am ironing yardage so have not distorted anything by ironing (as opposed to pressing).
I'm sure I have many other self imposed quilting rules but these are the ones that come to mind.
#6
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Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Florida
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Mine sends me to the quilt store at the sandwiching of almost every quilt. I have to have a coordinating back. I know some people think the back doesn't matter. But to me it does. I can piece it out of the front fabrics, that's fine. I just can't grab any ol fabric and put it there. It reminds me of the first time I purchased a mattress. I didn't like the pattern of the fabric on the mattress and the salesman said, it's always covered up with a sheet. I bought it. Everytime I changed the sheets, I hated that fabric.
#7
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Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 41,521
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Interesting question. I admit my quilts are not show stoppers but good construction and fabric are important to me. I like my finished quilt to be square, good binding with the miters sewn down, nice and flat without rippled edges, quilting complimenting the top but not out shining it ....oh dear I guess I am more fussy then I thought.
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#8
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Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: CT
Posts: 21
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I was brought up that if you’re going to do art/craft it had to be perfect. This is of course impossible so I never completed anything. Fast forward 30 years and I’ve lesrned to overcome this stumbling block.
For me, my rules for myself are:
Only buy 1-2 projects at a time. Always buy at least 1/4 to 1/2 yard extra in case the store cut fabric wrong or I miscalculated. (Can always add to stash)
Don’t buy just to build a stash. I learned this lesson from my knitting days.
When I get piecing done, I can start designing next project but no buying until quilting is almost finished on current works.
I’m fairly new to quilting but this was my rule with other crafts also... Each new project must have something new for me to learn.
Most important: Splurge for the good tools! It makes a huge difference!
For me, my rules for myself are:
Only buy 1-2 projects at a time. Always buy at least 1/4 to 1/2 yard extra in case the store cut fabric wrong or I miscalculated. (Can always add to stash)
Don’t buy just to build a stash. I learned this lesson from my knitting days.
When I get piecing done, I can start designing next project but no buying until quilting is almost finished on current works.
I’m fairly new to quilting but this was my rule with other crafts also... Each new project must have something new for me to learn.
Most important: Splurge for the good tools! It makes a huge difference!
#9
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I have the 'three try' rule. If I try to improve on an intersection or point, the third try is the way it stays. I find keeping to this rule helps me hold on to my sanity.
I like my seams to lie flat at intersections and prefer to swirl them. I have been known to rework a pattern just so the seams can be swirled and not cause lumps. At the moment I am working on a project that is time sensitive and am following 'their' directions for pressing. I am finding that I am not enjoying the process because I know I could have done better. Lesson learned.
If, for whatever reason, a seam is narrower than it should be, I make a point of double stitching so that it will have less chance of pulling apart.
I like my seams to lie flat at intersections and prefer to swirl them. I have been known to rework a pattern just so the seams can be swirled and not cause lumps. At the moment I am working on a project that is time sensitive and am following 'their' directions for pressing. I am finding that I am not enjoying the process because I know I could have done better. Lesson learned.
If, for whatever reason, a seam is narrower than it should be, I make a point of double stitching so that it will have less chance of pulling apart.
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