narrow borders
#34
Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Australia in the hot dry part
Posts: 45
Thanks for bring up this topic Quiltlove. I had never thought of that, and it certainly would give a zing to a cot quilt I am making at the moment.
Bear with me here girls - Do you use this narrow "piping" between borders? Cut it about 1 inch wide?
I've already sewn my border on the cot quilt, the top is quilted, would I be able to put this piping on the four outside edges now, and then sew on the binding?
There are three layers now, I was wondering if that would make it impossible to do. My binding for the cot quilt is the same material as the final outside border of the quilt, this is 4 1/2", and because I don't live near shops, I will have to cut the same material as the final border for the binding, which I am making 1 inch finished binding. That piping would give a good zing between the two fabrics that are the same! (well, I thought so)
I am a visual learner only , so always a big thankyou for screen shots, but also, I appreciate just plain written instructions too......
AliKat
what you call a flange foot, I wonder if that is what us Aussies call a piping foot.
Best Press? Is that a type of starch??? I do recall reading about a substitute for Best Press using Vodka.......but maybe I am just getting my facts mixed up........it happens.......
Deemail - I will go through and read and absorb your Ginny Beyer Zinger. Thank you everyone else for posting, I have learnt something else today - now it's whether or not I can do it neatly.
Anna Australia
Bear with me here girls - Do you use this narrow "piping" between borders? Cut it about 1 inch wide?
I've already sewn my border on the cot quilt, the top is quilted, would I be able to put this piping on the four outside edges now, and then sew on the binding?
There are three layers now, I was wondering if that would make it impossible to do. My binding for the cot quilt is the same material as the final outside border of the quilt, this is 4 1/2", and because I don't live near shops, I will have to cut the same material as the final border for the binding, which I am making 1 inch finished binding. That piping would give a good zing between the two fabrics that are the same! (well, I thought so)
I am a visual learner only , so always a big thankyou for screen shots, but also, I appreciate just plain written instructions too......
AliKat
what you call a flange foot, I wonder if that is what us Aussies call a piping foot.
Best Press? Is that a type of starch??? I do recall reading about a substitute for Best Press using Vodka.......but maybe I am just getting my facts mixed up........it happens.......
Deemail - I will go through and read and absorb your Ginny Beyer Zinger. Thank you everyone else for posting, I have learnt something else today - now it's whether or not I can do it neatly.
Anna Australia
#38
Super Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: West Texas
Posts: 2,073
I have used Ghostrider's method with success even doing 1/8" borders. I use Fray Check on the seam allowance, because I think such a small seam allowance is asking for trouble.
Concerning the issue of maintaining straight seam allowances, the problem is solved on Ghostrider's method by taking a bigger seam allowance than needed, and then trimming to exactly 1/4" or 1/8" (whatever you want) with the ruler and rotary cutter. Then the seam allowance, which becomes your stitching guide is straightened out for you.
Dayle
Concerning the issue of maintaining straight seam allowances, the problem is solved on Ghostrider's method by taking a bigger seam allowance than needed, and then trimming to exactly 1/4" or 1/8" (whatever you want) with the ruler and rotary cutter. Then the seam allowance, which becomes your stitching guide is straightened out for you.
Dayle
#39
I have used Ghostrider's method with success even doing 1/8" borders. I use Fray Check on the seam allowance, because I think such a small seam allowance is asking for trouble.
Concerning the issue of maintaining straight seam allowances, the problem is solved on Ghostrider's method by taking a bigger seam allowance than needed, and then trimming to exactly 1/4" or 1/8" (whatever you want) with the ruler and rotary cutter. Then the seam allowance, which becomes your stitching guide is straightened out for you.
Dayle
Concerning the issue of maintaining straight seam allowances, the problem is solved on Ghostrider's method by taking a bigger seam allowance than needed, and then trimming to exactly 1/4" or 1/8" (whatever you want) with the ruler and rotary cutter. Then the seam allowance, which becomes your stitching guide is straightened out for you.
Dayle
Secondly, you do not use the seam allowance as the stitching guide...that's what you do when you sew a regular seam in the normal case. With this method, you use the stitched line (the thread), the seam line itself, as the sewing guide on the left side of the presser foot. The seam allowance, on either side of either seam for the skinny border, has absolutely nothing to do with it. If the first seam is straight, the one you sewed in the usual manner (step 1), the second seam will be straight as well because you are simply tracing it with the edge of the foot.
All it takes is a bit of thinking outside the box, but it's a piece of cake once you try it. And if I can do it on the pictured quilt for a 60" length matching seams every 4", anybody can do it on a border!
#40
Try using washable glue to tack down those narrow bindings or sashings. It will hold narrow piping or binding in place while you are sewing and is easier to use than spray adhesive and no blood from pin pokes.
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