Need Help on Satin Stitch
#11
I really love to do the satin stitch applique. All of the responses are wonderful. You did a great job on your first attempt...you should have seen mine. LOL. But, I agree that stabilizer is the key factor to improve the puckering. Recently, I discovered using the free motion quilting foot, with feed dogs down, stitch length at 0 and the width at what you desire; I really am enjoying the freedom it gives me. I am in total control and can clearly see where each stitch will go. I hope that you continue to experiment and have a great time creating.
Last edited by Chicca; 03-30-2012 at 09:54 AM. Reason: I forgot a couple words
#12
I tend to stay away from heavy stabilizer in a quilt, unless it's a water soluble, because the thickness under the satin stitching seems out of place on a soft quilt.
You can use a light stabilizer if you starch the block fabric you're stitching on. Place the light stabilizer under the starched block, add your applique pieces and you'll find it works nicely.
Christine-
http://quiltdasher.blogspot.com/
You can use a light stabilizer if you starch the block fabric you're stitching on. Place the light stabilizer under the starched block, add your applique pieces and you'll find it works nicely.
Christine-
http://quiltdasher.blogspot.com/
#13
Power Poster
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Western Wisconsin
Posts: 12,930
I too think that's very good for a first attempt.
What I do is heavily starch the background fabric before cutting the square (and I cut larger than necessary in case there is some distortion during sewing). Heavy starch provides enough stabilization so I do not have to add a stabilizer. My method for starching is to mix a 1:1 solution of Sta-Flo liquid laundry starch and water, "paint" it on with a large wall painting brush until the fabric is saturated, dry in dryer, then iron with steam.
I have not needed it so far, but if I felt the need for additional stabilizer I would simply add a layer of Stitch n Ditch (inexpensive very lightweight paper purchased from Amazon). This would be easy to remove afterwards and would not make the satin stitch any more stiff.
You might want to try out a couple of different stabilizers (including my starch method) on some practice blocks to find out which you like best.
What I do is heavily starch the background fabric before cutting the square (and I cut larger than necessary in case there is some distortion during sewing). Heavy starch provides enough stabilization so I do not have to add a stabilizer. My method for starching is to mix a 1:1 solution of Sta-Flo liquid laundry starch and water, "paint" it on with a large wall painting brush until the fabric is saturated, dry in dryer, then iron with steam.
I have not needed it so far, but if I felt the need for additional stabilizer I would simply add a layer of Stitch n Ditch (inexpensive very lightweight paper purchased from Amazon). This would be easy to remove afterwards and would not make the satin stitch any more stiff.
You might want to try out a couple of different stabilizers (including my starch method) on some practice blocks to find out which you like best.
#14
Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: I live in Vicksburg, Mi
Posts: 84
you might try using a little fabric glue or fusing the applique to the fabric. I've done both and haven't had a problem with using either. Stabilizer is a big help I have also used coffee filters and they work fine for applique and embroidery.
#15
Stabilizer
I also use stabilizer under my applique. I prefer wall liner by the roll from Lowe's or Home Depot since I do very large applique quilts and hangings and this is a very cheap source (about $14 for a roll). When you lift the presser foot to readjust the piece you want the needle to start right next to the last stitch so there is no gap in the stitches. To turn a corner, restitch from the top right over the stitches that you just made. For a point make sure you stay on the fabric and don't stitch off on either side. Rember to keep your stitches perpendicular to the piece as you go, this is why you have to keep repositioning the needle as you go around a circle. The smaller the circle the more you have to reposition.
#17
That is so pretty! A stabilizer would definitely help and it also makes moving the piece easier, too. I use coffee filters for my stabilizer. I buy a pkg of a 100 at the dollar store. They iron flat, tear easily, and are acid free.
#18
Lots of wonderful help thank you all for your replies and I will of course be testing and experimenting all of the suggestions to see what works for me.. Especially thanks for help on where to stop the needle that is a big problem Im having. I'm going to ask now a question that should be clear to me but is not unfortunately. "Does the stabilizer go under the background piece or under the cut out design like the flower itself. I used the Heat N Bond ultrahold on the back of those pieces that I Ironed onto my background. I really like what was mentioned about applique on a soft blanket. This is for a blanket for my grand-daughter and would like to not have stiffness that will be uncozy so possibly the heavy starch method might be a good thing.
#19
I also use stabilizer under my applique. I prefer wall liner by the roll from Lowe's or Home Depot since I do very large applique quilts and hangings and this is a very cheap source (about $14 for a roll). When you lift the presser foot to readjust the piece you want the needle to start right next to the last stitch so there is no gap in the stitches. To turn a corner, restitch from the top right over the stitches that you just made. For a point make sure you stay on the fabric and don't stitch off on either side. Rember to keep your stitches perpendicular to the piece as you go, this is why you have to keep repositioning the needle as you go around a circle. The smaller the circle the more you have to reposition.
#20
Lots of wonderful help thank you all for your replies and I will of course be testing and experimenting all of the suggestions to see what works for me.. Especially thanks for help on where to stop the needle that is a big problem Im having. I'm going to ask now a question that should be clear to me but is not unfortunately. "Does the stabilizer go under the background piece or under the cut out design like the flower itself. I used the Heat N Bond ultrahold on the back of those pieces that I Ironed onto my background. I really like what was mentioned about applique on a soft blanket. This is for a blanket for my grand-daughter and would like to not have stiffness that will be uncozy so possibly the heavy starch method might be a good thing.
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