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    Old 12-07-2010, 07:01 AM
      #11  
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    DawnMarie, I even put Fray Check on the buttonholes in new garments that I buy - and on the threads holding the buttons on, too.

    I second the nomination for the mechanical buttonholer - those take some fiddling around to get them set up, but once you've got them set, they crank out buttonholes just as fast as any one-step buttonhole setting on a modern machine.

    And the buttonholes they make are just beautiful! I usually go around each one twice, unless I'm working on very fine fabrics. They're absolutely secure and they look like the ones you make by hand. :)

    Greist made these buttonholers for low shank, slant shank and high shank machines. I don't remember ever seeing one for a super high shank, but they might exist, too.
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    Old 12-07-2010, 07:01 AM
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    Originally Posted by Wendys Quilts
    I am getting so frustrated!!! I made a satchel for my nephew and he wants a button and button hole (to use while he is in college). I have made a button hole before on a different bag, but I cant get it to work this time!!! I dont know why??? I have pulled out the machine manual have done all it says, but it still messes up. AND I AM MESSING UP HIS SATCHEL, in trying to figure this out!!! grrrrr.

    has anyone made a button hole WITHOUT the button hole foot? If so, I would love for some instruction how to do it.

    Thanks in advance.
    Wendy ~ I have NOT made button holes without the button hole foot . . . . . BUT I have cussed up a storm while trying to do button holes on fleece. I was going through two layers of pretty fluffy fleece. I finally had to use some stabilizer (top and bottom) to get it to work.

    What sewing machine do you use? What fabric are you using and how many layers.

    Maybe one of us here has had your same experience.
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    Old 12-07-2010, 07:10 AM
      #13  
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    When all else fails, try Velcro.
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    Old 12-07-2010, 07:11 AM
      #14  
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    How about trying a bound buttonhole? That might be an easier solution now that you have tried the other kind.

    I think the bound buttonholes are easier and look so much more professional.
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    Old 12-07-2010, 07:18 AM
      #15  
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    Originally Posted by Wendys Quilts
    I am getting so frustrated!!! I made a satchel for my nephew and he wants a button and button hole (to use while he is in college). I have made a button hole before on a different bag, but I cant get it to work this time!!! I dont know why??? I have pulled out the machine manual have done all it says, but it still messes up. AND I AM MESSING UP HIS SATCHEL, in trying to figure this out!!! grrrrr.

    has anyone made a button hole WITHOUT the button hole foot? If so, I would love for some instruction how to do it.

    Thanks in advance.

    would suggest you set up some scrap and do it on that till you get it straightened out.
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    Old 12-07-2010, 07:26 AM
      #16  
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    I know the simplest thing can be overlooked very easy. Did you set your machine to do the buttonhole? Some machines you actually have to turn the dial to the buttonhole function. Is the zig-zag stitch selected and the correct length and width? Some machines you have to this manually.

    What type of machine do you have, maybe that'll be the starting point for assistance.
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    Old 12-07-2010, 07:27 AM
      #17  
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    Instead of fraycheck, I find that by fusing a lightweight interfacing under the top layer of where I'm putting the button hole helps a LOT. Both preventing fraying and making the fabric behave better while sewing the buttonhole.
    It doesn't have to be a large piece - just bigger than the hole itself. It's also a great way to use up tiny pieces of the fusible interfacing.
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    Old 12-07-2010, 08:48 AM
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    Originally Posted by thepolyparrot
    The manuals for my vintage machines all show how to make 4-step buttonholes using the zig-zag stitch. Is there anything like that in your manual?

    You mark your buttonhole with a straight line that's a hair longer than the measurement of the width of the button and sew a narrow, almost satin-stitch zig-zag along the right side of the line, then turn the fabric and sew down the other side. Make sure that you don't cover the line - you will need to get in between those rows with a cutter to open the buttonhole.

    Widen the zig-zag width and shorten the stitch and sew bars across the top and bottom of these two rows. Put some Fray Check on the buttonhole and let it dry, then use a sharp scissors or seam ripper to slice a slot between the rows of narrow zig-zag.
    Good verbal description! Also a good idea to practice on scraps similar to the "good" item.

    If necessary, one can turn the item and only sew in "forward mode" if the reverse setting isn't working as well as one would like.
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    Old 12-07-2010, 10:14 AM
      #19  
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    start with cleaning your machine (preferably with a nice cup of tea near by...then new needle...then a practice piece (you should ALWAYS make your first button hole on a practice piece ...NEVER on the finished item that way you make sure you have the size correct and all 'bugs' worked out before tackling your item. after having that cup of tea...or what ever your preference ;-) your machine will be all clean, new needle and ready to tackle your project...get the book back out and do it over, it will go so much better i promise :thumbup:
    it is amazing the difference it makes to clean the bobbin area and put in a new needle!
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    Old 12-07-2010, 01:45 PM
      #20  
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    Originally Posted by thepolyparrot
    The manuals for my vintage machines all show how to make 4-step buttonholes using the zig-zag stitch. Is there anything like that in your manual?

    You mark your buttonhole with a straight line that's a hair longer than the measurement of the width of the button and sew a narrow, almost satin-stitch zig-zag along the right side of the line, then turn the fabric and sew down the other side. Make sure that you don't cover the line - you will need to get in between those rows with a cutter to open the buttonhole.

    Widen the zig-zag width and shorten the stitch and sew bars across the top and bottom of these two rows. Put some Fray Check on the buttonhole and let it dry, then use a sharp scissors or seam ripper to slice a slot between the rows of narrow zig-zag.
    This is exactly how I have always made button holes. I've never had a fancy machine with the attachment that just makes them for you. This will work just fine.
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