Need strip widths for making tape with bias bars

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05-20-2011, 09:53 AM

#21

roseOfsharon

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Flying_V_Goddess,

It is my thought that you do not want to seam pieces together for the balk of it and also the seam line will show on the front. I am confident you will figure it out and if I can be of any help please pm me. I have visions of doing it and know it will take a bit of patience and a lot of time to applique the bias patterns! A beautiful collection it will make once completed! I hope you will show us your work as you go along and add anything you have found along the way as helps as well. :)

This is a method that I used...

http://www.quiltingboard.com/t-99184-2.htm

Wishing you the best,
Sharon :)

05-20-2011, 09:17 PM

#22

Flying_V_Goddess

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Join Date: Mar 2007

Location: Wisconsin

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Quote:

Originally Posted by quiltmouse

I do see that. If you use 40" of fabric, the diagonal length would be 56", with the straight edge seam staggering down through it. So there would be several pieces that are of significant length, 40" - 56". If that is not enough, you need to get 3-4 yards, do the diagonal cut. Fold the fabric with the diag as straight edge & rotary cut your precise width cuts. Every piece would be 56".

I do understand your OP question is about cutting so wide & trimming. I agree that is a lot of fabric waste.

:-D I come off as "too" helpful sometimes. Hope I did not offend. Your project is ambitious & it looks like you are having fun (isn't that the whole point) & I am confident they will be stunningly lovely!!!

As the strips are bias and it is a hanging, and thus will not be washed much. What about a straight cut on your bias strip, and just butt them? The cut will be bias also, so no raveling.

And the most recent question, about her head. There are several intersections with bolder lines, do your head transition there? The earrings, and that 3 triangle unit are bold.

No, not at all. Actually I appreciate the feedback. Between the amount of leading, the 70+ colors, and having ZERO experiance in stained glass quilting and very little in applique in general this is a huge project. There's not a lot of info on stained glass quilting. I found like two detailed videos on the subject---one was good, but she bought her tape (with the amount I have to do and at $11 for 12 yards it aint happening) and the other one was the "Linda Everhart technique" (they call it "easy", I call it "cheating"). Its nice to get some feedback and talk things out and being able to see things a little different and see that there's more than one way of going about this. Still don't have my original question fully answered though. lol.

56" sounds just dandy. I don't think I'll have any leading that's longer than that.

I don't quite understand what you mean with Ruto's head. Like her earrings and ear fins having bolder lines. By bolder you mean thicker? 'Cause actually the lines that make up the shape of her head, ear fins, and earrings are the same width. And still don't really get how this would could be the transition point. Maybe I'm just not seeing it.

05-20-2011, 09:30 PM

#23

Flying_V_Goddess

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Quote:

Originally Posted by roseOfsharon

Thanks for the link. I looked over it quickly. I'll take a better look at it later when I'm feeling better (kind of sick to my stomach...tooth ache wouldn't let me eat at all and cousin's funeral was today and cried a lot so I think the combination has made me physically sick). Nice work, by the way.

Of course I will show my work! The only thing that I have found that might be helpful is the butcher's paper is a great thing to use if you have a large design to trace. I think its 50 feet for $10. Oh and a lightbox is esstential.

I'm finally done tracing the Nabooru image onto butcher paper. The first half was harder. Literally the first half. I just traced the left side of the image, took the image off the butcher paper, folded the butcher paper in half with wrong sides together, and traced the lines I had drawn onto the right side of the paper. The hardest part about the first part was getting all the curved lines the right width all the way through. If it was a straight line I could just lay the bias bar along that line and run my pencil down each side. Curved lines were a little trickier. It probably took me four hours for the first half and another two for the other. So about six hours. One down. Seven more to go. I think I'll start on Impa next.

05-23-2011, 12:57 PM

#24

quiltmouse

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Join Date: Mar 2011

Location: Pratt Kansas

Posts: 1,222

Quote:

Originally Posted by Flying_V_Goddess

I don't quite understand what you mean with Ruto's head. Like her earrings and ear fins having bolder lines. By bolder you mean thicker? 'Cause actually the lines that make up the shape of her head, ear fins, and earrings are the same width. And still don't really get how this would could be the transition point. Maybe I'm just not seeing it.

Yes, the leading around the head are all the same width. I just thought if you used those bolder intersections as your transition - beginning/ending spot, any potential variation in the width of the leading for the head might not show, because it's right there next to a wider bit at those intersections. A place for "wiggle room".

(I may not know what I'm talking about at all)

As far as your OP question, you already figured out one cut correction, can you play with scraps & find your "actual cut" for your other leadings, without the "trim off" in the instructions?