cindyb

No mater what I do, I don't like how my binding turns out. No matter if I use 2" or 2 1/2" or what ever (I've tried a lot of different sizes) the batting does not fill the binding and it's limp. Are you suppose to use a 1/4" seam allowance - or 1/2" when attaching it on to the quilt? Many times I have to fold it over farther than I want. What is the solution to having the the right measurements so that the back and front sides are the same and the batting still fills the binding? Hope someone understands what my problem is.

Tartan

There are some good binding tutorials at http://ankastreasures.wordpress.com I cut my double fold binding at 2-1/4 inches. I sew it 1/4 inch from the front edge of the quilt. The edge is filled with the top, back, batt and the 2 layers of the binding raw edges before folding it to the back to hand stitch.

IQ2

same here and I like the way it comes out. 2 1/4" doublefold, sew with 1/4" seam allowance.

cjsews

When I first learned to do bindings my teacher told me to trim the quilt after sewing the binding to the front. Leave extra batting beyond the binding and it will help fill it out. This works well for me

bearisgray

I usually do a test run with long stitches to see "where" to sew my binding. Sometimes it takes a couple of tries to get the seam width about where I want it.

I trim the sandwich before putting the binding on.

Stitchnripper

I've watched an Eleanor burns show where she sews the binding on before trimming. I tried this but seems awkward to me. I don't mind doing bindings.

QuiltingVagabond

This is a timely question for me, just sewed a binding on and it needs more batting for fullness. I really don't want to remove it, and I will cut lots of points off if I make the seam wider. Thinking about zigzagging a strip of batting to the seam allowance...

Note to self - next time leave 1/8" extra batting when trimming!!!

Onebyone

I dot Elmer's on a 1" strip of thin batting in the binding when I press fold it. I sew it on the quilt using 1/4" seam. Turn it and hand stitch it down right on the 1/4 seam. I start with a 2 1/2" strip. This works for me.

Peckish

I sew bindings professionally (meaning people pay me to do it.) Here are my tips for a full binding:

DO NOT IRON THE BINDING IN HALF.

I use a 2" wide strip for binding. This will give you a 1/4" binding width on both front and back of quilt.

DO NOT IRON THE BINDING IN HALF.

Make sure, as you're sewing the binding on to the edge of the quilt, that you have a 1/4" seam. I cannot tell you how many customer bindings I work on, where the customer has attached the binding with less than a quarter-inch seam.

And once again, DO NOT IRON THE BINDING IN HALF.

bearisgray

I use bias bindings - and I do baste the edges of the binding together before applying it to the quilt.

It really does help to NOT iron the binding in half - because as the binding makes its way around the edge of the quilt - the "half way mark" is not the actual fold line that is at the back of the quilt. Think of driving around a corner - the inside wheels have a smaller radius than the outer wheels.