New LA quilter seeking help
#1
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Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2019
Posts: 3
New LA quilter seeking help
I recently purchased a used MegaQuilter 18x8 on an Inspira frame with QBOT. When it was finally assembled (everything cleaned, oiled, leveled), I started to free motion quilt (waiting for version 3 of QBOT) using King Tut thread. The machine would take a few stitches and then I would have long stretches where the needle would punch through the fabric but not stitch. I read everything I could and then adjusted bobbin and top thread tension, quilt sandwich tension. I still had long threads on the top and the bottom. When my version 3 QBOT arrived, I began to experiment. Initially, the designs stitched with only a few long threads, but the more I used the program, the more the machine would continue stitching but the thread was not creating stitches. I have lovely needle punched designs but no quilting. My husband, who is mechanical and tech-oriented, did a thorough over-haul of the machine today and believes that I need to order a hook assembly. I'll order the part tomorrow but I was wondering if anyone has dealt with this kind of problem and how it was solved. Many thanks in advance for any help and advice.
#2
Super Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Utah
Posts: 2,093
If it's skipping stitches, the timing could be off just a little. Sometimes all it takes is to put a new needle in and make sure it's pushed all the way up, and that the groove is facing toward you. The only reason you would want to replace the hook assembly, is if it's been damaged and has major scars on it. Usually we can polish any small scratches with a very fine sandpaper, about 400 to 600 grit.
Two timing settings to check first, are the needle/hook distance and the loop lift settings. When the point of the hook comes around to the back of the needle, it should cross at the top of the eye of the needle. Also, there should only be a breath of air between the hook and the needle. They should almost touch.
Two timing settings to check first, are the needle/hook distance and the loop lift settings. When the point of the hook comes around to the back of the needle, it should cross at the top of the eye of the needle. Also, there should only be a breath of air between the hook and the needle. They should almost touch.
#4
If you have tried everything else (new needle, checked to see that you have the correct needle for the machine, rethreaded the machine top and bottom, etc) this is a tip I have often seen … think of a clock on your base under your needle
So if you are having a problem with skipped stitches, try turning your needle ever so slightly from the 6:00 o’ clock position to 6:30.
If you are having a problem with shredded or breaking thread, try turning the needle to 5:30
So if you are having a problem with skipped stitches, try turning your needle ever so slightly from the 6:00 o’ clock position to 6:30.
If you are having a problem with shredded or breaking thread, try turning the needle to 5:30
#5
Super Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Greater Peoria, IL -- just moved!
Posts: 6,168
Not quite the same problem but with my friend's machine there was an issue with how the sensors for the Stitch Regulator were set. I could stitch in one direction just fine, but the other direction there was no stitching. I cleaned the pads, they were surprisingly dirty even though the set-up was pretty new, and reset/adjusted everything which solved our problem.
That machine is rather fussy about its bobbins and we have never been able to wind bobbins well on it. When we switched to a lighter weight pre-wound bobbin from Superior most of our problems went away.
That machine is rather fussy about its bobbins and we have never been able to wind bobbins well on it. When we switched to a lighter weight pre-wound bobbin from Superior most of our problems went away.
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Reno, Nevada
Posts: 794
If you're using a stitch regulator, be sure also to check the tracks in which the machine travels forward/back and side/side. The stitch regulates with a wheel (one on each direction) by triangulating with your speed (math way above my pay grade, but that's the way I understand it). If the tracks are not clean, then there are interruptions in the way the machine calculates - ergo, skipped stitches. This problem can give you fits, especially if it continues happening after you've cleaned and oiled the other parts, replaced needle, checked to be sure you're using quality thread, etc.
The best thing(s) I use to clean are kitchen wipes (no bleach) and even bits of batting. Also, if your machine has sat around for awhile, it could be that the innards oil has got gummy. In that case, you'll need a service call to properly clean it out. Check to see when it was last used. If it's more than a few months, that could very probably be the problem. Also, see if any oil that may have come with it has picked up a yellow tinge. If so, it's old. Throw it away and get some SEWING MACHINE OIL that's clear. What yellows the oil is a bacteria which also makes it gum up. The clear stuff is still nice and sterile. Also check your manual for a very small hole in the main sewing machine case. That is the only point you should oil and then, only a drop or two once a month or so.
Hope this helps. There's nothing more fun than a machine that performs properly. If the machine could talk, it would likely say, "There's nothing better than having an informed, conscientious owner." Have fun with your new-to-you baby.
The best thing(s) I use to clean are kitchen wipes (no bleach) and even bits of batting. Also, if your machine has sat around for awhile, it could be that the innards oil has got gummy. In that case, you'll need a service call to properly clean it out. Check to see when it was last used. If it's more than a few months, that could very probably be the problem. Also, see if any oil that may have come with it has picked up a yellow tinge. If so, it's old. Throw it away and get some SEWING MACHINE OIL that's clear. What yellows the oil is a bacteria which also makes it gum up. The clear stuff is still nice and sterile. Also check your manual for a very small hole in the main sewing machine case. That is the only point you should oil and then, only a drop or two once a month or so.
Hope this helps. There's nothing more fun than a machine that performs properly. If the machine could talk, it would likely say, "There's nothing better than having an informed, conscientious owner." Have fun with your new-to-you baby.
#10
On a machine with a stitch regulator, the encoders determine the speed at which the machine is moving, and therefore tell the needle when to go up and down. If you have long stitches where the needle is not going down, then check the encoders.
However that is not your issue. Your needle is going down and not always forming a stitch. That can be several things, including a bobbin that is not wound tightly, needle bar height needing adjustment, timing slightly off, needle not positioned correctly or slightly bent, and checkspring needing replacement. I agree with others that you probably do not need a new hook assembly.
However that is not your issue. Your needle is going down and not always forming a stitch. That can be several things, including a bobbin that is not wound tightly, needle bar height needing adjustment, timing slightly off, needle not positioned correctly or slightly bent, and checkspring needing replacement. I agree with others that you probably do not need a new hook assembly.
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