OK, cutting bias for your binding,
#11
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Originally Posted by Ninnie
I always use straight cut unless there are curves in the edges.
I cut my strips 2 and 1/2 inches , fold in half, and sew the raw edges to the front, and then blind stitch it down on the back.
I cut my strips 2 and 1/2 inches , fold in half, and sew the raw edges to the front, and then blind stitch it down on the back.
#12
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There is a neat ruler just for cutting bias binding. It's goof proof. I use it for cutting bias strips. [/url] http://ihavea-notion.com/store/item_433/Simpli-EZ-Bias-Ruler.htmhttp://<br />
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I recently bo...as tape maker: http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product.do?product_id=11249452[url]. The 2 1/2 in. maker for it will be available in Oct.
#13
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I use continuous bias strip binding, of course like everything else, it is a personal choice. I use it because somewhere I read it made for longer lasting edges.
I found the direction in 'Quilter's Complete Guide' by Marianne Fons and Liz Porter.
I found the direction in 'Quilter's Complete Guide' by Marianne Fons and Liz Porter.
#15
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For wall hangings that get rarely handled or washed I would use straight grain binding. For an heirloom quilt I would use bias even without curves due to the fact that the binding will last longer if cut on the bias.
#16
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I use bias binding when I want to play up the stripe and diagonal material..... I fold the salvage edge over to form a triangle and then rotory cut on the bias edge til I have enough and then \ sew them together on the diagonal....
#19
Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Decatur GA
Posts: 28
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If the quilt is going to be used as a covering, I always use doubled bias binding. Yes, it takes more fabrica and time to prepare, but the edges of the quilt take the most wear... It's where you touch and pull the most. The doubled means that each layer is working in a different direction and distributes the wear and tension more evenly. Look at old used quilts and you will almost always see fraying, thinning and splitting on the binding edges -- particularly if straight edge was used.
When I make and press my binding (notice I said press not iron) in half I roll it onto toilet paper tubes. This stores easily. I have an old coffee can with the plastic lid with a hole in it. I put the wound binding inside and gently pull it out as I apply it by machine... doesn't roll around the floor or get stepped on.
When I make and press my binding (notice I said press not iron) in half I roll it onto toilet paper tubes. This stores easily. I have an old coffee can with the plastic lid with a hole in it. I put the wound binding inside and gently pull it out as I apply it by machine... doesn't roll around the floor or get stepped on.
#20
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I just learned something new!!! I love this board! Something to learn every day, my quilting has come on more in the last few months since I joined than in all the years before, anyway, stop rambling Kathryn and get to the point! :lol:
I had no idea that bias would last longer than straight - I thought the only difference was the ability to go round curves. I always do a double straight bind (haven't made anything with a curvy edge yet) because a) I read once that on antique quilts, it's the binding that wears first and b) it makes it easier to slipstitch down on the back. Do you think a single bias bind is stronger even than a double straight bind? Just interested. great question, BTW! :D
I had no idea that bias would last longer than straight - I thought the only difference was the ability to go round curves. I always do a double straight bind (haven't made anything with a curvy edge yet) because a) I read once that on antique quilts, it's the binding that wears first and b) it makes it easier to slipstitch down on the back. Do you think a single bias bind is stronger even than a double straight bind? Just interested. great question, BTW! :D
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