Paper piecing double curves- Cindy shake polar bear swim
#1
Paper piecing double curves- Cindy shake polar bear swim
I recently acquired Cindy Shake's Polar Bear Swim wall hanging pattern and the pattern is unclear if the center block is done by paper piecing. The pattern has a template for the polar bear appliqué and also has a pattern for the center block, which consists of several free form like curves that make up a 9inch block. However, the sections in the center block are not numbered.
Has anyone made this pattern? If not, do you recommend that I paper piece the center block ( any tips on making the double curves) or should I cut the sections out of the pattern and use as templates?
Thanks so much! I appreciate everyone's guidance.
Has anyone made this pattern? If not, do you recommend that I paper piece the center block ( any tips on making the double curves) or should I cut the sections out of the pattern and use as templates?
Thanks so much! I appreciate everyone's guidance.
#3
here is a link to the pattern http://www.quiltedravenalaska.com/Ca...ductID=2577461 . this pattern does not lend itself to paper piecing. i would use the templates provided with the pattern.
#4
Petthefabric and QuiltnNan, thank-you both for your guidance. Last night, I watched various YouTube videos on paper piecing and did not see anyone make curves. I did, however, watched a few videos that did curve piecing using templates and pins. Thanks for teaching me about the limitations of paper piecing.
#8
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 221
Haven't done regular paper piecing but I'm just about to get to a curve (significant but gentle) on my English PP project. I'll have to snip my paper as I go but no reason it shouldn't work.
When sewing unfamiliar curves I usually mark a few match points when I cut them -- using chalk or tailor's tacks if the seam allowance is narrow. Then just a matter of notching or clipping the seam allowances as needed (usually AFTER sewing) to get it all to lie flat. Sometimes just pressing is enough. If you make the pattern again, I think you could successfully piece those curves.
When sewing unfamiliar curves I usually mark a few match points when I cut them -- using chalk or tailor's tacks if the seam allowance is narrow. Then just a matter of notching or clipping the seam allowances as needed (usually AFTER sewing) to get it all to lie flat. Sometimes just pressing is enough. If you make the pattern again, I think you could successfully piece those curves.
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