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    Old 11-28-2014, 05:40 AM
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    I am always impressed with the information you expert quilters freely give. Being a member here is like having a sewing teacher available 24/7. Thank you all for your knowledge and kindness.
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    Old 11-28-2014, 06:09 AM
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    I agree... so much wonderful help here. Thank you ladies... I will tackle this with a new perspective.... I can do this... I can do this.... I can do this......

    Originally Posted by Quiltngolfer
    I am always impressed with the information you expert quilters freely give. Being a member here is like having a sewing teacher available 24/7. Thank you all for your knowledge and kindness.
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    Old 11-28-2014, 09:07 AM
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    I wasn't clear in my previous post about pressing seams open--sorry, Senior Blonde moment. I join the top 2 sections together then remove the paper from inside the seam lines. Then I press that seam open, do the same for the bottom 2 sections and then the same thing to join top and bottom. This will let the seams stay open--they won't if you leave the paper in the seam lines. Sorry--clear as mud????
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    Old 11-28-2014, 10:10 AM
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    I used to do the sew through the paper method but discovered using either freezer paper or a glue stick and the original paper to make the "blocks" Start as you normally would any paper pieced block but before you do that use a tracing wheel to perforate the paper and make it easier to fold on the sew lines. Stick or iron ( FPM=freezer paper method) into place in the first section, fold back the paper, trim, add new fabric and sew next to the folded line. Iron seam, flip fabric, iron again and either glue or iron (FPM) second fabric in place. Fold back paper, trim, add new fabric and again sew on edge of paper to secure second block. Repeat to finish block then peal off the paper ( pattern intact and no ripping of paper) less bulk, easier to join centers, fewer error because you see what you are doing rather than obscured by paper and no mess! If you do not get this brief synopsis...try Utube and search freezer paper piecing. You might like the results even better than before.
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    Old 11-29-2014, 04:33 AM
      #15  
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    I am now working ( on & off) on a Becky Goldsmith--Piece O Cake-- pattern called Spring Wheel...same 8 point center...having that same bulky problem at center......even hard to "spin" it........even if I do it right! I have done others, not PP and no problem, I believe it's all that paper that gets in the way!!!!!!!This FPM sounds interesting...may look into that..
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    Old 11-29-2014, 04:40 AM
      #16  
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    I see little "gaps" on the backside at the B seam lines, looks minuscule, but put together can cause that mismatch.....just like regular piecing. I don't do PP often, but each time I do I think the sewing of those pieces really has to be more precise than " regular" ...can't squish, or gently stretch to make it match....no stretch in paper.....
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    Old 11-29-2014, 04:41 AM
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    Try ironing the seams open sometimes this helps
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    Old 11-30-2014, 07:25 AM
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    This is not the best video on the planet ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OqMiC1_JdqQ) but it does cover a technique I previously mentioned. Using this method ( or the original paper pattern and a glue stick) ...makes less bulk, reduces mistakes, improves accuracy, no tearing away paper and when you press the seams open you have a far better chance matching those bulky intersections. I also found perforating the pattern with a tracing wheel makes folding a cinch.
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    Old 11-30-2014, 07:42 AM
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    Is the pattern " right"?
    It seems that there might be a problem with the center sections?
    Try making "finished" wedge units of paper, lay them together, and see if they come together properly.

    Once in a while, it is the pattern that is the cause of the problem.

    I do like the fabrics chosen for that block.
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    Old 11-30-2014, 09:23 AM
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    I'm just a beginner in PPing but I've found if I have to overlap more than a few seams in one spot, using thinner fabric also really helps.
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