Perfect Points?
#21
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Michigan
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Doing the pin on either side of the point is the way I've been doing these but I've never planned on the 1-2 threads into the seam thing. That might help a lot. I'm learning so much about points and I need these lessons. I've stayed away from points for way too long. The quilt I'm starting will have quite a few I'm afraid. It's a mystery quilt so don't know what's to come next. Thank you everyone!
#22
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Often the problem is the way the seams are pressed after the block is made. The point is on the bias and can be easily stretched out of shape. No steam and straight up and down press and ho scrubbing of the iron. A clapper can help "set" a seam to stay put. I have heard of some hand piecers using a eighth on a seam to elliminate the bulk at the point or pressing the seams open for the same reason. All things to think about when points are intersecting with many seams.
#23
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Points are certainly not the easiest for me and I've been making quilts for a long time.
However, I only see one of your points that is a bit off. Your block looks great.
Lots of good suggestions but honestly, your block is great.
A slight aside- I was working on units yesterday (not points but still about accuracy) and I found 2 pieces that wouldn't go together properly. On closer inspection I noticed my seam was too small on one middle piece, throwing the end result off. When I restitched it was fine.
#25
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Keller, TX
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Jean, you did a great job.
I think you need to use spray starch or best press before you start cutting your fabric., and remember to press you seams, not iron, because half square triangles and flying geese are primarily bias edges. Even now, I would starch your block, wait a few minutes and PRESS (lift up and down) your seams and squares.
Very pretty block.
I think you need to use spray starch or best press before you start cutting your fabric., and remember to press you seams, not iron, because half square triangles and flying geese are primarily bias edges. Even now, I would starch your block, wait a few minutes and PRESS (lift up and down) your seams and squares.
Very pretty block.
#28
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Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 447
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For perfectly perfect points...paper piece.
Past that I find it is ALL in the pinning. When I am doing points that I really, really want to come out right I use the Clover fine Patchwork pins (they come as half yellow headed pins, half blue headed pins), which are so fine you can sew over them.
If I am in doubt about my seam allowances being entirely trustworthy, I put a pin through the point and the opposing fabric, which keeps the layers in place before I pin on either side of it.
Extra insurance: BASTE. Baste the seam with a long, easily removed stitch. That way you can see if you are getting your point sharp before committing to the tighter stitch width. That basting step shows you where you might be off and making adjustments are easy after that.
In some projects you just have to have those crisp, sharp points. Just takes time and practice.
Past that I find it is ALL in the pinning. When I am doing points that I really, really want to come out right I use the Clover fine Patchwork pins (they come as half yellow headed pins, half blue headed pins), which are so fine you can sew over them.
If I am in doubt about my seam allowances being entirely trustworthy, I put a pin through the point and the opposing fabric, which keeps the layers in place before I pin on either side of it.
Extra insurance: BASTE. Baste the seam with a long, easily removed stitch. That way you can see if you are getting your point sharp before committing to the tighter stitch width. That basting step shows you where you might be off and making adjustments are easy after that.
In some projects you just have to have those crisp, sharp points. Just takes time and practice.
#29
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Upstate New York
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That's exactly what I do..when you first apply the glue stick, press the pieces together, then flip back 1 piece 1/4 inch..the glue will still be wet so you can wiggle the pieces or remove and reapply. Until you get used to this method, it's helpful to have a piece of fabric with a 1'4 in line sewn on it to use for comparison.