Pinmoors or not
#31
Super Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Central Willamette Valley, Oregon, USA
Posts: 7,695
I looked at this tool, but just went back to using a teaspoon like grandma showed me. It works and I always know where the teaspoons are.....
#32
Super Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Va.
Posts: 5,753
Safety pins work for me--they're quick and easy, though I have spray basted some. Depending on the quilt, I either STID and then remove all pins before FMQing, or I leave pins in and STID and FMQ all at the same time.
I also use safety pins to mark areas of the quilt so I don't get lost when I'm FMQing.
Rob
I also use safety pins to mark areas of the quilt so I don't get lost when I'm FMQing.
Rob
#33
Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Florida
Posts: 37
Pretend Pinmoors
Min
#35
Super Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Morris Plains, NJ
Posts: 1,803
#38
Super Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Bar Harbor, ME.
Posts: 2,911
A year or so ago someone posted her idea for what to use instead of the more expensive Pinmoors. She said to buy the wide Caulk Backer Rod by DAP that is sold at Home Depot. It comes in a bag and is used for plugging holes in windows, doors, wall joints. foundations, etc. It looks almost like the Pinmoors but so much less expensive. You just unroll and cut into the little sections to insert you pins when pinning for a quilt.
#39
Super Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Sonoma County, CA
Posts: 4,299
I like Pinmoors, I bleed a lot less when I use them!
I tried the "DIY" version with the backer rod stuff, and it sort of worked, but the DIY versions don't stay on nearly as well as the real deal does. I would still get stabbed because the backer rod stuff would come off of my pins. Real Pinmoors grip the pin a lot better and stay put.
Someone here said that Pinmoors don't work well with the yellow-headed quilter's pins but I disagree - those are the pins I use exclusively with my Pinmoors and they work great! In my experience, the thinner glass-headed pins work OK but are prone to bending when you poke them into the Pinmoor. The yellow headed pins are stiffer and work best, IMO.
I never liked using safety pins - they're cumbersome and make my fingers hurt, even when I bought the curved ones and tried the quick clip tool thingy. Plus the shafts are so much thicker than my yellow-headed pins; it's harder to get the pins through all 3 layers.
I usually glue baste with Elmer's now, but when I do need to pin something, I use Pinmoors every time.
I tried the "DIY" version with the backer rod stuff, and it sort of worked, but the DIY versions don't stay on nearly as well as the real deal does. I would still get stabbed because the backer rod stuff would come off of my pins. Real Pinmoors grip the pin a lot better and stay put.
Someone here said that Pinmoors don't work well with the yellow-headed quilter's pins but I disagree - those are the pins I use exclusively with my Pinmoors and they work great! In my experience, the thinner glass-headed pins work OK but are prone to bending when you poke them into the Pinmoor. The yellow headed pins are stiffer and work best, IMO.
I never liked using safety pins - they're cumbersome and make my fingers hurt, even when I bought the curved ones and tried the quick clip tool thingy. Plus the shafts are so much thicker than my yellow-headed pins; it's harder to get the pins through all 3 layers.
I usually glue baste with Elmer's now, but when I do need to pin something, I use Pinmoors every time.
#40
Super Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Illinois
Posts: 2,140
I tried the Pinmoors at a guild workshop & thought it might be fun to pick some up since supposedly straight pins give a slightly smoother surface than the curved safety pins. Unfortunately, at $40/100, it was prohibitively expensive. I use around 600 pins per quilt, which would be a $240 investment just for the Pinmoors. I'm sticking to Size 2 curved safety pins for now & will use that $240 to make a quilt or two.
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