|
Originally Posted by lclang
(Post 5666951)
I don't understand using the starch too...why?? The glue holds perfectly fine without using anything else. Actually, from what I read the glue IS a starch so you wouldn't need starch too. I'm in favor of making it as easy as possible.
I'm lazy! I didn't press my fabrics before I glued it down. So I spread glue, sprayed starch and pressed it once. That way, I totally covered the quilt and batting with glue/starch but there is no heavy glue build up. It stiffens the fabric and makes it "slick", makes it easier for me to control while I'm FMQ. I've used starch and no glue (a few pins) for the same reasons. It's an affordable, watered down, spray version of the glue. YMMV. |
I did a twin size quilt last week with glue.
Lay the batt down on some surface. I used my queen bed. Smooth the back down on top of it. Lift up about half of the back fabric, drizzle glue all over the batt (you don't need a large thread, just a thin line). The lines can be up to 6 inches apart, or just put down spots. Fold the back down again and smooth very well. Now work on the other side. Fold back, drizzle glue, smooth down. You can let this sit until dry, or use a hot iron and just press down on a lot of spots to dry the glue a little faster. When the back is dry, turn it over and do the same thing to the front. Smooth it on, fold back, drizzle glue, smooth back in place. Then do the other side. Let dry or use the hot iron. After this was done, I picked up my quilt as if it were one piece of fabric, took it to the sewing machine and did FMQ. It never moved. This is so much fun. I hope you try it. |
Ws wondering would this work for applique instead of wonder under or steam2seam?
|
Originally Posted by Bb/rhodo
(Post 5667211)
Ws wondering would this work for applique instead of wonder under or steam2seam?
|
I think Elmer's glue washes out so might no want to use on appliqué that is to be washed.
|
I recently used Elmer's Washable School Glue when making Disappearing Four Patches. I used tiny dots and sometimes used a thin thread. Pressed the blocks to set the glue. Sitiching was extremely easy and all the corners lined up perfectly. Each block has a crisp and sharp appearance. I would recommend this method.
|
Great thread! I've used this glue for bindings, but I would not have thought of using it instead of spray adhesive. I'll try it on my next quilt. Seems to me that it would be easier to center the back and front using glue instead of spray adhesive.
|
I think minstrel has hers finished, but here is a tute I found.
Two most important things to remember: -glue MUST be Elmer’s School Glue (because it is washable) -glue must be 100% dry before you start quilting Lay your backing on the table and straighten. Lay your batting on the backing and straighten. Lay your quilt top on the backing. If the quilt is too large to fit on the table, center it as much as possible. Find which way you have the least amount of hanging over the table. I usually put the width of my quilt to be the lengthof my table (60”). Using safety pins, pin your quilt through the middle of the quilt widthwise. Roll the top on one half to the safety pins. Move the roll of the quilt all the way to the edge of the table leaving a large area of batting exposed to give yourself more working area. Apply Elmer’s School Glue I thin lines, or drizzles on the bating in the width of 12”-18”. I make a grid about 2”-3” apart. Fold the top over the glue and straighten with your hands from the middle outwards. Keep doing this until you reach the top edge of the quilt. At this point, the glue has not set yet. Straighten your top with your hands, removing any possible imperfections. Dry by pressing with dry iron. Some people do not do this, but rather leave it to dry overnight, but I am the impatient kind and I use my iron. Repeat the same procedure with the other half of the quilt. Once it is COMPLETELY dry, remove the safety pins and turn the quilt sandwich so the backing is facing up. Straighten your backing again. And repeat the same procedure as with the quilt top. If you will be applying your binding by hand, go easy on the glue at the quilt edges. Although it does not bother the machine needle one bit, it can be tough to get the hand sewing needle through it. I just use a metal thimble, since I cannot seam to go easy on the glue. Wash the quilt after your are done to get rid of the glue. Basting your quilt this way, will make sure that both your top and your backing are straight. Batting that has good consistency, such as W&N, works the best. I hope this helps. Happy Quilting! I've got a smile on my face, I've got four walls around me The sun in the sky, the water surrounds me I'll win now but sometimes I'll lose I've been battered, but I'll never bruise http://www.quiltingboard.com/clear.gif Reply http://www.quiltingboard.com/clear.gif Reply With Quote http://www.quiltingboard.com/images/...iquote_40b.png Blog this Post Today, 12:32 PM #8 Tashana http://www.quiltingboard.com/images/...er-offline.png Senior Member http://www.quiltingboard.com/customa...tar79993_1.gif <dl class="userinfo_extra"><dt>Join Date</dt><dd>Jul 2012</dd><dt>Location</dt><dd>Long Island</dd><dt>Posts</dt><dd>487</dd><dt>Feedback Score</dt><dd></dd></dl> If you have any questions regarding the tutorial I just posted, please do not hesitate to send me a PM. Good luck! |
Great info, thank you for posting.
|
Originally Posted by KLO
(Post 5667267)
What a great question? I use Steam-a-Seam all the time but wouldn't it be great if this glue could be used instead ... especially when I have run out of the fusible and live too far from the store? Here's hoping someone has tried this and will report back.
i can't wait till I get a top done so I can glue baste, this sounds like fun. And a lot easier to work with than spray basting. |
| All times are GMT -8. The time now is 04:27 PM. |