I tried the rubber door stops under the back side of my machine and it helped my aching shoulders and neck; however, it gave me a nasty case of tennis elbow. The aching neck and shoulders are easier for me to deal with.

There is another thing you might consider. How do you sleep at night? I was hurting so bad between my shoulder blades and was sore on my upper back. My chiro told me to be sure to either sleep on my side or my back. I discovered that when I was on my side, with a pillow under my knee, I did ok starting out. But when I woke up in the morning I was still on my side from the waist down, but from the waist up I had rolled onto my chest. Now, I use a firm pillow that supports my knee, as well as my chest so I can't roll over. I haven't had upper pain like that for days! which is good because we thought we might have to buy a sleep number bed which is so expensive. So, for now, this method works. It's something to consider.

Have you tried standing at a kitchen counter to sew? Also, another thing you can try is to put a slant board under the sewing machine, so it tilts slightly towards you (back side up slightly higher than the front side you sit at)...this helps you view the sewing area/needle, and you won't be inclined to lean forward to the machine.

I have found that tilting the back of the table up about 1/2 to 3/4 inches helps to relieve a lot of stress on my neck and shoulders.

I experienced this same problem when I was in my 30's. The problem arose from the machine bed being 2 inches higher than the table top which was standard height of 30 inches. I can reproduce that same problem in about 5 minutes just by taking my machine head out of the sewing table which then puts me at an incorrect posture, ie shoulders hunched up around neck. I use an adjustable chair like you would use in an office vs the sewing stool that came with the table. I offer this advice to anyone who has back and neck aches when working at the sewing machine, MAKE SURE that the work surface is the correct height ergonomically. Iam a retired interior designer, and I can even get this same pain at the same spot sitting at a restaurant table that is not the correct height for the chair. The relationship is one of 12 inches from seat of chair to top of work surface (machine bed). Hope this helps. p.s. Iam 72 now and even though I have had back surgery(from a ruptured disc) I DO NOT have problems:)

Prism99's link to ergonomic positioning for sewing, and cutting fabric was very useful. Thank you.

I have the same pain, sitting with a hot pack right now. Thanks for all the tips, there were some new ones I will try.

So sorry to hear, I have the same problem and I don't think it is age, It even bothers me to stand and iron my quilt patches. I think I am just OUT OF SHAPE!

I have no advice but good luck.

Try out different heights and go, not with a "formula" but with what seems to work for you. I have used the fold-down tables (from Joann's) for years now and the advantages for me are: 1) they are high and I got an office chair that I set low. My eyes, not my arms are near the sewing level and that keeps me from hunching forward. And 2) when I'm pinning, cutting, whatever, they are higher than a kitchen table and don't require the same 'leaning over." 3) When I'm doing applique I use the rubber doorstops so I can see exactly where my needle is as I go around what I'm sewing. Even though this works for me very well, if I sew all day long I need to stop and stretch every couple of hours. DH put a second banister on the stairs to our apartment and I go out and grab both sides and let my body "fall" forward and stretch my back and chest muscles the "other" way. oooohhh it feels good. I also put one foot up 3 stairs and, holding on to the rails, I push my chest down against that thigh and circle is up, keeping my chest out as much as possible and roll shoulders up and back. This was taught to me by a physical therapist. It has changed my life!

By the way, if you do get the fold-down tables, also get enough industrial strenth velcro so you have an 2 one inch squares for each table to put in the space where the leg support goes. Without that the legs can move out when the tables are moved around. The manufacturers should have made the holding place 4 sided instead of 3 sided, but I've not had any further problem.