Originally Posted by JanTx
(Post 5549322)
When I have to piece a backing horizontally I used to trim off the selvedg as carefully as I could and then sew my 1/2" seam. The results were "iffy" at best as to how straight my cutting had been. Now I leave the selvedge on until after I sew the seam - using a seam allowance that is the width of the selvedge plus 1/2". This works so much better for me! When I told my BQF (best quilty friend) :) about this she informed me that she's been doing it this way for a while. So ... in case I'm not the last one on the planet to figure this out ... here's to straighter seams!
I prefer larger backings and seam vertically when I can, but ... lately they seem to all come out better horizontally. I quilt them myself on my domestic machine. |
I leave the selvedge on until after I sew the seam - then cut and press open. So ... seam allowance plus the width of the selvedge - sew, cut, press open. Don't know why it took me so long to come up with this!
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Originally Posted by Holice
(Post 5549616)
Have you tried John Flynn's method of cutting and piecing the back on the diagonal. Sure saves fabric.
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Flynn method works great !!!!! I guess it helps if you have algebra & geometry but if not try it with a piece of paper and you will see how it works....saves lots of fabric and the full length of the seam is never on the fold when storing the quilt. If you do not understand the math just plug your projects numbers into the formula, after first checking to be sure you are within the guidelines. My avatar has a backing done this way and it is difficult to even find the seam after quilting. My two tall friends who are holding up the quilt for the picture were giggl.ing and trying to find the seam when I snaped the photo
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Originally Posted by Tashana
(Post 5551948)
If the salvage is not printed but the same color as fabric I don't even cut it off. The width of the seam is the width of the selvage. Done!
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Originally Posted by Scissor Queen
(Post 5549593)
I may give this a try next time. I always snip and rip the selvedges off.
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I rip the salvages off.press smooth and sew.i know i have a straight seam that way.and always a1/2 seam allowence.i'm a long armer and 1/4 seams stand up as they are quilted and hard to manage.
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Originally Posted by Pinkiris
(Post 5550511)
Holice-- Try as I might, I can't make sense of the John Flynn method! Maybe you could clue me in to what I'm missing? Seem like it makes no sense to cut fabric diagonally, sew it back together and it's LARGER??? I don't get it...:confused:
1. Get a sheet of paper (8 1/2 x 11 works great). 2. Fold it across the diagonal and cut on the fold. 3. Now, lay the pieces on a flat surface cut edges together and slide the right side toward you. See how the overall width of the paper gets wider? This is what happens with the fabric back -- after you make the cut you move the fabric up or down until the piece is wide enough and long enough for the back. For me it is great because it saves fabric (if you are doing a big quilt and the fat back is not quite big enough, this still works. The other thing I like is that the diagonal does not usually match any seams -- I hate it when the back seam winds up an exact match for one of my long pieced seams. (Since I normally use my home machine I don't have the problem with the roller.) There is a formula out there that allows you to calculate the fabric you need: http://www.multi-patch.com/html/fabric_calc.php |
I understand the John Flynn method, and it makes sense, except: there will still be waste from the triangular pieces that stick up and down? Right? I've never done it, but wonder how you get the line straight to cut on the angle. I could put my quilt frame sticks on the fabric, but how do I get the fabric to lie perfectly flat and square? I suppose tape it to the floor? Would a string stretched across be good enough?
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If you leave the selvedge on, snip it about every 2 inches to prevent puckering from uneven shrinkage. I've done this for clothes that were washed frequently and never had a puckering problem.
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