Blackberry

I use a singer 201 to put binding on my quilts. My problem is that the binding puckers at the very end of sewing it to the quilt. I cut the binding strips 2 1/2 inches and I know you are supposed to cut the end of the overlapping binding strip the same width as the binding but because I always have puckers I cut the overlapping piece 2 1/4 inch but still I have puckers. I don't know if the pressure is set right. I have the pressure screwed down pretty far but if I raise it a little then the material won't feed through. Also as I am sewing the binding on the quilt the walking foot doesn't seem to feed it through as I always have a wrinkle or two as I am sewing the binding on. I am looking for answers to these problems if anyone knows what I am doing wrong.

JustAbitCrazy

I don't think you are doing anything wrong, I just think your walking foot doesn't do the job well. I would have suggested letting up a bit on the pressure foot, but you have already said that doesn't help. I would try binding on a different machine and see what happens.

osewme

This has happened to me several times & now I cut my binding just a tiny bit shorter than 2 1/2". If you cut the binding a tiny bit to short it can be "stretched" just a tad to fit but if it's to long it will give you puckers. Hope this helps.

Jeanette Frantz

I have never used a walking foot to apply binding, but I've never had a problem with my binding puckering either. I am by no means a very experienced quilter, so I can't really speak to the issue. What I do -- unless I am doing bias binding, I cut my binding lengthwise of the grain, fold it in half, press, and pin to the front of the quilt, stitch it on, fold over the stitching, hand-stitch to the back side of the quilt, being very careful NOT to stretch the fabric!

Jingle

I find I have to smooth binding with my left hand as I sew it on. Also holding it where I want it with right hand. I get better results with just a regular foot. When I join the pieces together at the end I mark where they should meet and shorten it another 1/8" and sew my seam there. I always cut my bindings WOF, I like the bit of give. Many ways to do something and get good good results.

Mitty

Could you try it with a regular foot instead of the walking foot? This is advice in the "try something different and it might help" category, rather in the "this will definitely fix it" category.

quilterpurpledog

Your picture indicates that the length of your binding is too long. It has nothing to do with the width of the binding-2 1/2 inches vs. 2 1/4 inches. I have used both my regular 1/4 inch foot and my walking foot to attach the binding with equal results. If I have pinned the binding with a bit of excess of length, it works out at the corners.( I always pin my binding on to start with so I can be sure I don't get to a corner with a diagonal seam in the binding.) I have found that I have to be careful about joining the two ends of binding at the finish so I don't have excess fabric. I cut it a bit short to be sure it fits. Yes, I have had to take stitches out an re-cut the ends a few times. But, I always am happy with the result.

Rhonda K

Cute fabric! What does it look like when you turn the binding over to the other side? Does it still pucker? Where is join line for the two ends? I don't see it in the picture shown.

Do you starch and iron the binding before attaching to the quilt? I like to starch and press the binding. It is a personal preference to iron the binding in half though. I've done it both ways and generally don't iron it in Half.

After you join the binding seams, do a quick check on how it looks on the quilt. It should lay flat along the edge.

It might work to take out those stitches, starch and press, then re-attach to the quilt.

Good luck!

Macybaby

when I get to the join end, I overlap my binding and get it on the snug side, them mark and sew.

First, I do not press my binding in half to start, but I do press the diagonal seam line where I will be joining at the end (this is the start end that I press). Then I sew my binding on, with a 6" or so tail loose. When I get all the way around, I stop about 12" from where I started (so I've got a 6" tail loose on the end side too).

Then I lay my quilt out (just that spot, I don't move the quilt or leave my machine) and open the binding on the start end and lay it smooth over the quilt with the diagonal folded over, then I do the same with the "end" end and lay it on top of the other and get it a touch snug. I then grab the folded over part and the top and pin it. It does not matter where you pin, it's just to hold it. Then I fold the quilt to bring the two points I stopped sewing together and that gives a lot of slack in the loose binding. Then I smooth the two binding ends together (the pin holds them at the correct length) remove the pin and line up the diagonal press line and sew along it. Open it up, make sure it fits a bit snug, then trim and finger press the seam and finish sewing it up.

Then I flip it and machine sew down the other side. But if you hand sew that is what you'd do.

This way joining binding ends has become a non-event and there is no complicated measuring or any of that goofy-ness.

Little Lulu

I too use 2 1/2" binding and also use my walking foot and used the great tutorial on binding by Joan Doan with Missouri Star Quilt. I have used her method to machine bind 3 quilts with no problem at all.
https://quiltingtutorials.com/tutori...nding-tutorial
I hope this helps.