Quarter inch seams
#31
Super Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Florida
Posts: 3,832
The Brother 1500s is straight stitch only. The 1/4" foot measures perfectly. Great workhorse.
#33
Whatever you decide to use as a guide bring it back toward you and line it up just in front of the presser foot allowing you to butt your fabric against it for a couple inches before it gets to the needle. Don't run it back over the feed dogs, but stop it just short of the feed dogs.
#35
Super Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Clay Springs AZ
Posts: 3,229
Every machine is different, took me awhile to get mine set up.
I have a Viking Sapphire and it has a 1 /4 in setting. It still is not the right size so I have to move my needle to 2.3 to get the right size seam.
I have a Viking Sapphire and it has a 1 /4 in setting. It still is not the right size so I have to move my needle to 2.3 to get the right size seam.
#36
Maggie, I love that idea! I never think of those things. I have always been told I have trouble thinking outside the box. Lol. That's why I love the sharing on this forum. Thanks!
Mary
Mary
Last edited by Cogito; 04-08-2013 at 06:31 AM.
#37
My needle can't be moved on any of my machines. I use a 1/4" foot with a guide and am just happy with whatever size I get. I don't do anything that requires a scant 1/4" seam. It all works out in the end, consistency is the answer. I have done what sandysewa does if I really need to.
Last edited by Jingle; 04-08-2013 at 08:02 AM.
#38
Banned
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Heber City, UT
Posts: 542
Here are a few of my favorite tips/tricks for seam allowance.
I like the idea of testing your seam allowance by stitching three strips together, as Scissor Queen suggested. I use 3-1/2" x 1-1/2" strips. The center strip should then be exactly 1". If it's too big, your seam allowance is too small. If it's too small, your seam allowance is too large. Sometimes, it's only off by a thread's width!
If you are measuring your seam allowance to see if it's 1/4", be sure to count the stitches as part of the 1/4".
PRESSING can also make a difference!! If you are pressing from the wrong side of the fabric instead of the right side, a little fold forms at the seam allowance on the right side, and you'll lose real estate. Press the seam flat to sink the stitches, then press on the right side, getting the fabric as close to the stitches as possible to flatten the seam, without popping the stitches.
Water/Too much steam can also make a difference! Remember, it's cotton, and even if you've pre-shrunk your fabrics, if you get it too wet or use too much steam when pressing, it's still going to shrink. Press fabrics prior to cutting, then use a dry iron and a light mist if necessary when piecing.
Cutting can also make a difference! Cut using the marks on the ruler if possible, and try to use the very same ruler to cut out all your pieces. Make sure the line on the ruler sits on top of the edge of your fabric when cutting strips.
Here are more precision piecing pointers: http://www.rileyblakedesigns.com/cut...-tricks-tools/
I like the idea of testing your seam allowance by stitching three strips together, as Scissor Queen suggested. I use 3-1/2" x 1-1/2" strips. The center strip should then be exactly 1". If it's too big, your seam allowance is too small. If it's too small, your seam allowance is too large. Sometimes, it's only off by a thread's width!
If you are measuring your seam allowance to see if it's 1/4", be sure to count the stitches as part of the 1/4".
PRESSING can also make a difference!! If you are pressing from the wrong side of the fabric instead of the right side, a little fold forms at the seam allowance on the right side, and you'll lose real estate. Press the seam flat to sink the stitches, then press on the right side, getting the fabric as close to the stitches as possible to flatten the seam, without popping the stitches.
Water/Too much steam can also make a difference! Remember, it's cotton, and even if you've pre-shrunk your fabrics, if you get it too wet or use too much steam when pressing, it's still going to shrink. Press fabrics prior to cutting, then use a dry iron and a light mist if necessary when piecing.
Cutting can also make a difference! Cut using the marks on the ruler if possible, and try to use the very same ruler to cut out all your pieces. Make sure the line on the ruler sits on top of the edge of your fabric when cutting strips.
Here are more precision piecing pointers: http://www.rileyblakedesigns.com/cut...-tricks-tools/
#39
I installed the fast2sew yesterday. I cut out a section from the back to up around the feed dogs 3 1/2 by 1 1/8 inches. There is a YouTube video you can watch of another brand but it works the same. I used painters tape to tape it down & saved the section I cut out as a key to refitting it again. It works very well.
#40
I also have a 1/4 inch foot for my Janome. I always thought I was sewing a perfect scant 1/4 inch seam. I am making an optical illusion quilt by Erin Underwood. It needs to be really exact. Luckily I checked my accuracy before I started. I needed to move my needle 2 clicks to be accurate. I finish the quilt you sew 48 wedges together to make a circle. If you are a little bit off it will make a huge difference and it will be a mess.
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