Quarter inch seams
#21
Super Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: East Tennessee
Posts: 1,053
I've struggled with getting my blocks to come ou precisely for years; don't know whether it's the inaccuracy of my 1/4 inch seams or something else but I've finally just begun to either paper piece the block or make the units a little outsized and trim everything back to the precise measurement I'm after. It's a little more trouble in the short run but saves a ton of frustration when I start assembling all the blocks.
#22
#23
You cut out the part that covers the feed dogs leaving the feed dogs open to operate. You mentioned you were using painter's tape. Just cut out the section of tape which covers the feed dogs leaving the tape before the feed dogs, after the feed dogs and to the right of the feed dogs.
If I can find my camera I'll take a picture for you. I use a folded index card as 1/4 seam guide. First I measured 1/4 and then I taped the card in place to the front and back of my sewing machine. Where the index card would cover the right hand feed dogs, I cut that out so the feed dog wasn't covered.
If I can find my camera I'll take a picture for you. I use a folded index card as 1/4 seam guide. First I measured 1/4 and then I taped the card in place to the front and back of my sewing machine. Where the index card would cover the right hand feed dogs, I cut that out so the feed dog wasn't covered.
#24
Super Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Sierra Vista, AZ
Posts: 3,992
This is what I do to achieve the scant 1/4" I use graph paper. This little chart is on my Elna 7300. On my other machines that do not have a movable stitch position I use blue painters tape to mark the seam width I want after using the graph paper.
#25
I took a very expensive precision piecing class a few years ago. Once you find the seam allowance you want then the secret is to sew very slow. Slow Slow Slow. One stitch at a time. It won't be long until you can sew a perfect 1/4" seam without any guides at all.
#26
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: SW TN
Posts: 592
Not being able to sew that required 1/4" caused me so many tears and lots of rip it rip it time. I was feeling like I could do nothing right. I finally bought a 1/4" pressure foot and found the sewing experience amazingly better. Even my 10 year old grandson can sew that perfect 1/4" seam!
Not only are the seams uniform now. It has made matching seams and points much easier. I still check seam measurements to make sure all is well. The scant 1/4" is just okay....have not learned a precision way to judge that seam.
Not only are the seams uniform now. It has made matching seams and points much easier. I still check seam measurements to make sure all is well. The scant 1/4" is just okay....have not learned a precision way to judge that seam.
#27
Super Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Horse Country, FL
Posts: 7,341
I have a Pfaff and discovered that I had to move the needle way over to get the 1/4" seam.
Why would anyone design a machine that way? Oh, what a question. I'll let someone else answer that one!! :-)
Why would anyone design a machine that way? Oh, what a question. I'll let someone else answer that one!! :-)
Last edited by coopah; 04-07-2013 at 11:33 AM.
#28
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Carencro LA
Posts: 304
coopah, remember that some people who use sewing machines use a 5/8" seam (referring to the garment makers). A lot of clothing patterns call for a 5/8" seam. The easiest way to accommodate both is to start the needle in the middle and let it be up to the machine operator to adjust the needle position. Some of the newer quilting machines have a shortcut button to sew a 1/4" seam with the 1/4" foot. The Janome 8900 has that feature.
#29
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 317
I found that the specialty 1/4" quilting foot caused me more problems than it helped. I have an older Bernina and bought the new patchwork foot thinking it would help me. Nope. It caused me to slightly veer off at the ends of seams for some reason and I didn't have good visuals at the ends either. I found that I still needed a long line accurately marked on the machine bed with the needle to the right side so that the feed dogs have better contact with the fabric. You can use all manner of things to mark your line-- blue painter's tape, 3-M removable mounting squares, sticky-back moleskin, a stack of post-its, etc. I found that I really needed something with height so that I had something to butt up against. Stitching inside the quarter inch ruled lines on graph paper or index cards is great for measuring the scant 1/4" distance. It is useful to check your measurements fairly frequently on sample blocks because things can slip or wear down, and as has been said above, thread and fabric can make a difference.
I finally invested in one of those inexpensive seam guide rulers with a hole for inserting the needle and a long edge to place your seam guide material of choice. The last time I was at the Bernina dealer, I bought one of the screw in metal seam guides for an insane amount of money I thought, but it is easier than frequently replacing tape, etc. when I have to sew a 5/8" seam on clothing. It works on my old Singer 15-91, too.
I finally invested in one of those inexpensive seam guide rulers with a hole for inserting the needle and a long edge to place your seam guide material of choice. The last time I was at the Bernina dealer, I bought one of the screw in metal seam guides for an insane amount of money I thought, but it is easier than frequently replacing tape, etc. when I have to sew a 5/8" seam on clothing. It works on my old Singer 15-91, too.
#30
Up until the last few years every box of accessories came with that metal guide, I have 4 machines and 7 of the guides don't ask me how. You can also buy them off ebay very inexpensively.
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10-01-2011 07:09 PM