Question about cutting squares on the bias
#1
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Location: Central Illinois
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I am going to do an on-point setting for a project. Due to the directional pattern of the fabric, I am going to have to cut the block on the bias rather than straight of grain, so that the pattern is correctly positioned in the "diamond" when it is on point. Does that description make sense?
Anyway, is there something I should do to stablize the fabric so it does not stretch? Should I put a lightweight iron-on stabilizer on the back before cutting? If so, what kind? Would simply starching it very well prevent bias stretch? Should I just leave it alone and cut and handle it carefully and hope for the best?
Thanks for sharing your experience.
Anyway, is there something I should do to stablize the fabric so it does not stretch? Should I put a lightweight iron-on stabilizer on the back before cutting? If so, what kind? Would simply starching it very well prevent bias stretch? Should I just leave it alone and cut and handle it carefully and hope for the best?
Thanks for sharing your experience.
#6
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Western Wisconsin
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I would starch the fabric heavily before cutting.
What I do is mix Sta-Flo liquid starch 1:1 with water, "paint" this on the fabric with a wall painting brush (my kitchen island is the right height), throw the starch-saturated fabric in the dryer, and then iron it with steam. The fabric ends up being similar in stiffness to lightweight card stock, and any bias-cut edges don't stretch.
I would not use even a lightweight fusible because it makes the fabric permanently stiffer. The starch will wash out completely and leave the fabric with its original softness and drape.
Incidentally, starching also helps prevent any stretching when machine quilting. I use the same starching technique on my quilt backing fabrics before layering, as then I am sure there will be no tucks or puckers. I also use this technique before cutting bias binding strips.
What I do is mix Sta-Flo liquid starch 1:1 with water, "paint" this on the fabric with a wall painting brush (my kitchen island is the right height), throw the starch-saturated fabric in the dryer, and then iron it with steam. The fabric ends up being similar in stiffness to lightweight card stock, and any bias-cut edges don't stretch.
I would not use even a lightweight fusible because it makes the fabric permanently stiffer. The starch will wash out completely and leave the fabric with its original softness and drape.
Incidentally, starching also helps prevent any stretching when machine quilting. I use the same starching technique on my quilt backing fabrics before layering, as then I am sure there will be no tucks or puckers. I also use this technique before cutting bias binding strips.
#7
Originally Posted by Prism99
I would starch the fabric heavily before cutting.
What I do is mix Sta-Flo liquid starch 1:1 with water, "paint" this on the fabric with a wall painting brush (my kitchen island is the right height), throw the starch-saturated fabric in the dryer, and then iron it with steam. The fabric ends up being similar in stiffness to lightweight card stock, and any bias-cut edges don't stretch.
I would not use even a lightweight fusible because it makes the fabric permanently stiffer. The starch will wash out completely and leave the fabric with its original softness and drape.
Incidentally, starching also helps prevent any stretching when machine quilting. I use the same starching technique on my quilt backing fabrics before layering, as then I am sure there will be no tucks or puckers. I also use this technique before cutting bias binding strips.
What I do is mix Sta-Flo liquid starch 1:1 with water, "paint" this on the fabric with a wall painting brush (my kitchen island is the right height), throw the starch-saturated fabric in the dryer, and then iron it with steam. The fabric ends up being similar in stiffness to lightweight card stock, and any bias-cut edges don't stretch.
I would not use even a lightweight fusible because it makes the fabric permanently stiffer. The starch will wash out completely and leave the fabric with its original softness and drape.
Incidentally, starching also helps prevent any stretching when machine quilting. I use the same starching technique on my quilt backing fabrics before layering, as then I am sure there will be no tucks or puckers. I also use this technique before cutting bias binding strips.
#8
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Western Wisconsin
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Originally Posted by katier825
Prism99 ~ when you starch the back stiff like that, how do you handle it when quilting to get the extra out of your way? Do you roll it? Isn't that akward to handle?
Once fabric is starched the way I described and cut into blocks, the blocks have that level of stiffness I described (enough even to not tunnel when doing satin stitching). However, on backing fabrics the stiffness is not that apparent -- maybe because the piece is so much bigger? I can hold a square of starched fabric and it looks like a piece of paper (doesn't droop), but a starched backing piece won't do that. Plus, I think the starch basically gets broken down as the fabric is handled.
For a really large quilt (I make mostly smaller quilts) a solution of 1:2 Sta-Flo:water might be better than 1:1 for the backing. It would still have enough stiffness to prevent puckers and tucks on the back. I'm just an "over-kill" kind of person, I guess. I found that I really like max stiffness in the fabric as long as it washes out later. The stiffness seems to prevent a lot of errors that used to dismay me (especially finding tucks in the underside of the quilt after machine quilting!).
#10
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Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Central Illinois
Posts: 2,329
Thanks to all for your assistance. Looks like heavy starch and the walking foot are the way to go. I've never used the walking foot for piecing...I'll give it a try. Thanks also for the suggestion of starching the backing. I'll keep that in mind.
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