Question about trimming before adding binding
10-05-2011, 05:20 AM
#31
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Location: Wisconsin
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Originally Posted by YukonViv
I trim my quilt (front, batting and backing) so I have a nice clean edge to work with. I use the french fold technique for binding. I use a 2 1/4 inch binding, fold in half and then sew my binding to the front of my quilt at 1/4 inch...so that the rough edges of the binding is along the edge of the quilt. Then I fold the my binding towards the back and blindstitch it in place by hand.
With this method there is no loose areas in the binding as it's wrapped around the full edge of the quilt.
With this method there is no loose areas in the binding as it's wrapped around the full edge of the quilt.
:thumbup: :thumbup:
10-05-2011, 05:23 AM
#32
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Location: Blue Springs, MO
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I trim the batting and backing down to closer to what I am wanting the binding to be then add the binding and once again trim to the exact size I need to make the binding "full" and then attach to the back. it works for me every time and I make my bindings really wide compared to most people. they are usually around 1" the widest I did was 2 1/2" on a twin size quilt. but that was for effect.
10-05-2011, 05:27 AM
#33
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Location: Odessa, Washington
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I do it the same way you do and my bindings are always full. I think the fullness of your binding is determined by your "seam allowance" when you put the binding on your quilt. If you sew less that 1/4", your binding will not match up properly. I was taught this method at my LQS. I do LAQ for others and because there are so many ways to do the squaring up of a quilt, I never trim the quilts before I return them to their owners.
I also cut my binding to be 2-1/4" instead of 2-1/2" because my walking foot edge that I use as a guide is less than 1/4" from where the needle goes in and on my old machine I had no way to change my needle position. Now that I can control my needle position, I still use 2-1/4" cuts because I prefer a slightly narrower binding.
I also cut my binding to be 2-1/4" instead of 2-1/2" because my walking foot edge that I use as a guide is less than 1/4" from where the needle goes in and on my old machine I had no way to change my needle position. Now that I can control my needle position, I still use 2-1/4" cuts because I prefer a slightly narrower binding.
10-05-2011, 05:31 AM
#34
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Charlotte North Carolina
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I trim and square up the quilt using my rotery cutter - my biggest issue is getting where the ends meet to lay flat - if it is a kids quilt or not one for display I machine stich turning from the back to the front top stitching with a mating thread....
10-05-2011, 05:43 AM
#35
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Location: Lake Orion, Mich
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I sew a line of stitching about 1/8 of an inch from the edge, then trim before binding. the stitching keeps all three pieces (top, batt & back) together so I make sure it is all caught in the binding. The binding hides this line of stitching.
10-05-2011, 05:53 AM
#36
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Originally Posted by Jim
I trim all mine and sew the binding on..never had a problem with a flat binding or not being "stuffed"...even when entered in a show its never been a problems for judges....so I will continue to trim
10-05-2011, 06:05 AM
#37
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Location: Maryland
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It must be too early for me or else dementia is setting in because I am apparently the only one not following this line of thinking. Not saying you're wrong or in any other way criticizing but I just plain don't understand. Are you saying that basically the batting should be 1/4" wider than the top and backing (all around the quilt), rather than of equal size? In other words, the top, batting and backing should not be flush? I would think that if the top, backing and batting were flush, and the binding sewn on with a good 1/4" seam, the binding would be "stuffed" with the seam allowance. Could you straighten me out?
Originally Posted by auntpiggylpn
You should leave at least a 1/4" of the batting sticking out from the top. This will help "stuff" the binding and make it firmer. Judges at quilt shows will look for a nice stuffed binding. Plus, if you don't have have your binding stuffed, it will fold in half and then it will start to wear along the edge and split, especially if it is washed a lot. Many antique quilts have split bindings just because they didn't fill the binding enough and they were used and washed a lot.
10-05-2011, 06:09 AM
#38
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After the quilting is done, I sew a scant 1/4" line around the perimeter of the quilt and trim. Then I apply 2 & 1/4" binding on the front with a good 1/4" seam. Then I turn to the back and hand stitch.
Originally Posted by SandyinZ4
I was just wondering if I have been doing this wrong since I am sort of a self-taught quilter. When I am ready to add the binding on my quilt, I always trim the edges, including the batting and backing so I have a straight edge to sew the binding onto. Is this the best way to do this or do you leave it all on so you have some extra batting to add to the binding part to make it not be flat? I am open for suggestions and your reasoning. :-)
10-05-2011, 06:29 AM
#40
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Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 25
I trim after I have sewn down the binding on the front of the quilt. Then I trim the backing and batting a 1/4" larger than the quilt itself. That way the binding has some body to it too. Then I sew the binding to the back by hand.
Hope this works for you. Jenny
Hope this works for you. Jenny
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