Quilt block placement
#1
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Kansas City, Missouri
Posts: 1,040
Quilt block placement
I have 50 state embroidered quilt blocks that I would like to make into an approximate twin size quilt. I can trim them down to about 5 1/2 x 6 1/2. The only way I can figure out the placement is 5 blocks across and 10 blocks down. To me that seems like an awkard size. With that placement and 3 inch borders the quilt would be approximately 31" wide by 66" long approximately. Any help you can give me would be greatly appreciated.
#4
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Location: Greater Peoria, IL -- just moved!
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Depends on how your blocks are orientated, a diagonal set can give you exactly 50 in a more pleasing rectangle but doesn't work with all blocks.
For a straight set, consider a 7x8 grid for 56 squares. You put in spacer block in each of the 4 corners and then an extra block at the start and end. Sorry, didn't draw it out but it would go:
Spacer Extra State1 State2 State3 State4 Spacer
State5, etc...
last row/row eight:
Spacer State47 State48 State49 State50 Extra Spacer
For a straight set, consider a 7x8 grid for 56 squares. You put in spacer block in each of the 4 corners and then an extra block at the start and end. Sorry, didn't draw it out but it would go:
Spacer Extra State1 State2 State3 State4 Spacer
State5, etc...
last row/row eight:
Spacer State47 State48 State49 State50 Extra Spacer
#5
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Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Greater Peoria, IL -- just moved!
Posts: 6,168
Many people have had to deal with the layout of 50 blocks and have come to different ideas. Came back too late to edit, but 6x9 also makes a better shaped rectangle. And it gives you exactly 4 corner squares to deal with. Or a 4-block sized square in the center for a dedication or whatever. Speaking of which a center medallion is often used in state block settings.
Once you decide on your grid layout to make it larger yes, you have sashing options as well as borders to get to the size you want. Many many ways to do that, if you need wide sashing, I like to use two colors and make little star points at the cornerstones. So a two-inch finished width sashing, use the square method where you would cut a 1.5" square and sew along the diagonal to make the flying goose like point.
If your blocks are not consistently sized/very slightly rectangular, you might consider framing each block with a narrow frame, aiming for a consistent 1"+ finish, that might mean some strips are cut at 2" and get trimmed down to get your final desired size. If you frame one block in all black for example and the other in all white, you can even out the unevenness with those frames and cut them all to the size you want, square or however you want to set them. You might look at some of the ideas people use on t-shirt quilts or samplers to get blocks the same size.
I've got no problems with rectangular blocks and when I made my Cowboy boot quilt I deliberately added in just a half inch taller to make it better for me.
Once you decide on your grid layout to make it larger yes, you have sashing options as well as borders to get to the size you want. Many many ways to do that, if you need wide sashing, I like to use two colors and make little star points at the cornerstones. So a two-inch finished width sashing, use the square method where you would cut a 1.5" square and sew along the diagonal to make the flying goose like point.
If your blocks are not consistently sized/very slightly rectangular, you might consider framing each block with a narrow frame, aiming for a consistent 1"+ finish, that might mean some strips are cut at 2" and get trimmed down to get your final desired size. If you frame one block in all black for example and the other in all white, you can even out the unevenness with those frames and cut them all to the size you want, square or however you want to set them. You might look at some of the ideas people use on t-shirt quilts or samplers to get blocks the same size.
I've got no problems with rectangular blocks and when I made my Cowboy boot quilt I deliberately added in just a half inch taller to make it better for me.
#6
What about a layout like stars on the flag? 6,5,6,5,6,5,6,5,6. On the rows with only 5 blocks, put a half sized block out of your background fabric on both ends so the blocks offset. That way, you also don’t have to match any seams. (0:
#7
The recommended size for a twin bed quilt is 70 x 90 inches. I would recommend you make a throw or a wall hanging out of your embroidered blocks. If you have enough wall space it would look lovely hanging on a wall.
#8
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Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Maryland
Posts: 2,614
I am a UFO Queen! Not only do I have an ample supply of my own, I'm gifted other people's projects to "do something" with.
I'm actually near to finished on a fifty block embroidered state/flower/bird and it's almost square. The maker of the top added 6 plain embroidered stars and used 1" navy blue sashing, blocks are set 7 across, 8 down, stars were interspersed equally through the middle of the quilt. I should finish longarming this today then it's time to trim, make and attach binding, both front and back because I really love the lady who gave this to me!
I'm actually near to finished on a fifty block embroidered state/flower/bird and it's almost square. The maker of the top added 6 plain embroidered stars and used 1" navy blue sashing, blocks are set 7 across, 8 down, stars were interspersed equally through the middle of the quilt. I should finish longarming this today then it's time to trim, make and attach binding, both front and back because I really love the lady who gave this to me!
#9
When I read this post yesterday I couldn't get it out of my mind. It kept reminding me of the quilt on Kelly Clarkston's program. I went to sleep thinking about it. I happen to agree that a wall hanging may be your better bet to get the most exposure for these very beautiful blocks that you have spent so much time on. I can't wait to see what you have decided to do with them.
Thank you for the pleasant night's sleep.
Thank you for the pleasant night's sleep.