Quilt idea in progress
09-07-2011, 05:13 PM
#12
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Ah, so the black isn't additional in terms of proportions - it would now be a part of the original sized arc.....Got it.
On further thought...when you sew the pieces together to form the arc, the top(red) and bottom (black) of the arc will have a very smooth curve.
However, the curve on the color change might be a little choppy because you're not curving the black where it meets the red.
Draw two lines on a piece of copy paper about an 3/4" apart.
One represents the color change seam between the red and black, and the other is the bottom of the strip set, which would be the bottom of the black strip.
Now cut some pieces out with the bottom of your template lined up to the lower line.
When you put them next to each other (taking into consideration the seam allowances), there will not be a nice smooth line for the color change seam, right?
The lines will match up piece to piece, but it's not a smooth curve.
If that doesn't bother you, then fine, proceed.
If it does, then you'd have to add the black as a whole separate piece, with one long curved seam (not a big deal) joining the two sections.
On further thought...when you sew the pieces together to form the arc, the top(red) and bottom (black) of the arc will have a very smooth curve.
However, the curve on the color change might be a little choppy because you're not curving the black where it meets the red.
Draw two lines on a piece of copy paper about an 3/4" apart.
One represents the color change seam between the red and black, and the other is the bottom of the strip set, which would be the bottom of the black strip.
Now cut some pieces out with the bottom of your template lined up to the lower line.
When you put them next to each other (taking into consideration the seam allowances), there will not be a nice smooth line for the color change seam, right?
The lines will match up piece to piece, but it's not a smooth curve.
If that doesn't bother you, then fine, proceed.
If it does, then you'd have to add the black as a whole separate piece, with one long curved seam (not a big deal) joining the two sections.
09-07-2011, 05:41 PM
#13
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 1,703
Originally Posted by MTS
Ah, so the black isn't additional in terms of proportions - it would now be a part of the original sized arc.....Got it.
On further thought...when you sew the pieces together to form the arc, the top(red) and bottom (black) of the arc will have a very smooth curve.
However, the curve on the color change might be a little choppy because you're not curving the black where it meets the red.
Draw two lines on a piece of copy paper about an 3/4" apart.
One represents the color change seam between the red and black, and the other is the bottom of the strip set, which would be the bottom of the black strip.
Now cut some pieces out with the bottom of your template lined up to the lower line.
When you put them next to each other (taking into consideration the seam allowances), there will not be a nice smooth line for the color change seam, right?
The lines will match up piece to piece, but it's not a smooth curve.
If that doesn't bother you, then fine, proceed.
If it does, then you'd have to add the black as a whole separate piece, with one long curved seam (not a big deal) joining the two sections.
On further thought...when you sew the pieces together to form the arc, the top(red) and bottom (black) of the arc will have a very smooth curve.
However, the curve on the color change might be a little choppy because you're not curving the black where it meets the red.
Draw two lines on a piece of copy paper about an 3/4" apart.
One represents the color change seam between the red and black, and the other is the bottom of the strip set, which would be the bottom of the black strip.
Now cut some pieces out with the bottom of your template lined up to the lower line.
When you put them next to each other (taking into consideration the seam allowances), there will not be a nice smooth line for the color change seam, right?
The lines will match up piece to piece, but it's not a smooth curve.
If that doesn't bother you, then fine, proceed.
If it does, then you'd have to add the black as a whole separate piece, with one long curved seam (not a big deal) joining the two sections.
Tried it out. I think it is a bit choppy this way. So it looks like the second color is going to have to be added on separately to get that nice curve. Question is what would be the easiest way to go. You could piece together the black and red units into two separate arcs and then piece them together in one big seam. Or you could do it unit by unit...take a red piece and combine it with a black piece to create one regular sized DWR unit, keep doing that until you have enough units to create the arc, and then just piece the units together like you normally would in a standard pieced DWR.
By the way, the black part is also pieced too. I'm getting the feeling that some of you think the second color would be made from one solid piece of fabric.
09-07-2011, 05:49 PM
#14
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Originally Posted by Flying_V_Goddess
By the way, the black part is also pieced too. I'm getting the feeling that some of you think the second color would be made from one solid piece of fabric.
Hmmm.
Ok, plan C. More excess fabric - I don't use the term waste because I can't be bothered accounting for every 1" of fabric I don't use.
How about you cut entire arcs from each of the two different reds - albeit a bit thinner because you'll be using black - and an entire arc from each of the two blacks (also thinner than the regular sized arc).
Now sew Red1 to Black1 with a curved seam.
This section can then be used to cut out the real pieces with the template.
You'd have a smooth red/black curved seam, and the smaller black pieces would be attached already.
Then do the same for Red2/Black2.
Yes, there's be waste.
But it's either going to be wasted time or fabric. ;-)
Does that sound like it would work?
09-07-2011, 06:25 PM
#15
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i like the idea. however, they way you've put together the pieces that meet, i think would be hard to sew together. do you think you could try something different on the intersections?
09-07-2011, 06:32 PM
#16
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Originally Posted by MTS
Originally Posted by Flying_V_Goddess
By the way, the black part is also pieced too. I'm getting the feeling that some of you think the second color would be made from one solid piece of fabric.
Hmmm.
Ok, plan C. More excess fabric - I don't use the term waste because I can't be bothered accounting for every 1" of fabric I don't use.
How about you cut entire arcs from each of the two different reds - albeit a bit thinner because you'll be using black - and an entire arc from each of the two blacks (also thinner than the regular sized arc).
Now sew Red1 to Black1 with a curved seam.
This section can then be used to cut out the real pieces with the template.
You'd have a smooth red/black curved seam, and the smaller black pieces would be attached already.
Then do the same for Red2/Black2.
Yes, there's be waste.
But it's either going to be wasted time or fabric. ;-)
Does that sound like it would work?
Cut one solid arc from Fabric A (red) and one solid arc from fabric B (black) sew the arcs together. Then cut the indivual units from the arc. Repeat with the other two fabrics. Finally, piece together the units like you normally would in DWR quilt, alternating the units.
That sounds like it would work. :) Sounds like it'd take the shortest amount of time and waste the least amount of fabric.
09-07-2011, 07:38 PM
#17
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Posts: 4,134
Well, I don't think the red and black would have to be full sized arcs(width-wise).
As long as you have the seam allowances (top/bottom) plus some wiggle room, that should be enough.
I mean, you don't have measure to the thread. ;-)
You should also have enough seam allowances on each side because you're really only cutting 1/2 the pieces for the arc (or as many as you can get out of one).
And I strongly suggest you try it with two scrap fabrics to make sure it would work.
It should also give you an idea of how large to cut the arcs for the red and black fabrics.
Theoretically, it should work.
As long as you have the seam allowances (top/bottom) plus some wiggle room, that should be enough.
I mean, you don't have measure to the thread. ;-)
You should also have enough seam allowances on each side because you're really only cutting 1/2 the pieces for the arc (or as many as you can get out of one).
And I strongly suggest you try it with two scrap fabrics to make sure it would work.
It should also give you an idea of how large to cut the arcs for the red and black fabrics.
Theoretically, it should work.
09-07-2011, 08:58 PM
#18
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 1,703
Originally Posted by MTS
Well, I don't think the red and black would have to be full sized arcs(width-wise).
As long as you have the seam allowances (top/bottom) plus some wiggle room, that should be enough.
I mean, you don't have measure to the thread. ;-)
You should also have enough seam allowances on each side because you're really only cutting 1/2 the pieces for the arc (or as many as you can get out of one).
And I strongly suggest you try it with two scrap fabrics to make sure it would work.
It should also give you an idea of how large to cut the arcs for the red and black fabrics.
Theoretically, it should work.
As long as you have the seam allowances (top/bottom) plus some wiggle room, that should be enough.
I mean, you don't have measure to the thread. ;-)
You should also have enough seam allowances on each side because you're really only cutting 1/2 the pieces for the arc (or as many as you can get out of one).
And I strongly suggest you try it with two scrap fabrics to make sure it would work.
It should also give you an idea of how large to cut the arcs for the red and black fabrics.
Theoretically, it should work.
I'll have to get some DWR templates to test this out
09-08-2011, 03:26 AM
#19
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Australia
Posts: 4,116
Cheryl Phillips' version is done with straight strips sewn together and an arc template placed over the strips to cut. It looks good and is close, but not exactly curved as a traditionally made block is. Perhaps you would be satisfied with her method? It is published in a book called "The Rings That Bind".
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