Weezy Rider

I've used quilting stencils on jacket sleeves. Continuous line are nice. However, I marked the stencil with a white dressmaker's pencil. I used the bean or triple stitch on a Pfaff 1475 to quilt. Still have the jacket.

sewingsuz

I bought a couple of these kind of stencils and I am disappointed also. I know exactly what you are talking about. Are they blue and flimisy?

SoftBlockLady

Hi PaperPrincess.......the item number at Connecting threads is 82162....put that number in the search bar and it will come right up. 10" wide overall swirl..

SoftBlockLady

Hi Tartan........I have chalk powder from the shavings of my large pieces of chalk. I use a very stiff ceramic brush. What do you do when you have to pounce over a light colour. I don't wash my quilts when they are done.

SoftBlockLady

Hi sewingsuz............yep......that be them..........I'm thinking of putting a fine cut in them to accommodate an air erasable pen.

NJ Quilter

If you don't have chalk or cornstarch handy, you could try using cinnamon as well. Although, not sure how well that - or the other products - will work if you don't wash your quilts afterwards.

quiltingshorttimer

yup, those stencils that have a fine mesh in the design require some kind of powder to mark--I never use my pounce pad, but instead a foam paintbrush allows me to control the chalk powder better. And replacement chalk does not cost too much. But think you will have problems with any kind of powder (chalk, corn starch, etc) cause you said you planned to go slow and use the walking foot--the powder is likely to wear off too fast.

PaperPrincess

I would space the stencil across the area, then add a short connection:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]562645[/ATTACH]
To make an edge to edge, you would have to offset the rows and do a partial pattern on the ends:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]562646[/ATTACH]

Phyllis nm

THIS MAY OR NOT BE HELPFUL ALWAYS TEST ON SCRAP

CHALK
For 25 years I have done freehand embroidery work and this has worked best for me.
I ground up different colors of chalk in my mill grinder to see what worked best [what could be seen and removed]. White chalk [baby power, or corn starch] can be vacuumed off on med and dark fabric no problem.
Other colors can be reduced in color intense with white, the more intense the color the harder it is to remove. I just use white and light blue now, the blue is reduced with white. Blue and white chalk is at hardware stores for snap lines [cheap].
You can use cinnamon for light colors or white fabric.

You can use a vanishing power with a black light on any color [in the dark]. It is very good for names.

PAPER
I use canary paper from an art or drafting supply.
I tear off more than I need and trace a design with 5mm mechanical pencil, place on a piece of ¼” foam rubber on a firm surface. Then I use a small needle syringe [for shots] and poke holes into the lines at key points about 1/8[SUP]th[/SUP]” apart following the design, then I flip it over and sand off the tips with a sanding block or sand paper. I have also used a clear plastic film a permanent marker and sanded the tips, or a small stencil burner.
Then I have a reusable pattern I can use over and over.

APPLYING CHALK
I took a short wide mouth ball jar lid and a nail [or drill] punched a lot of holes in it.
Took a ¼”green scrubber cut it to fit inside rim on top of the lid.
Took a scrap of velour about 3/8” larger than the lid and placed it on top of the scrubber then screwed the hole thing together onto the jar with my chalk in it. You will have to pounce a while till the chalk starts coming through good. Wipe off your pattern before replacing it so you don’t get shadows.
I did this, years before any thing else was on the market, and still use the same ones today.

PATTERN MARKING
Holding your pattern down firm with one hand, slide your chalk jar across your pattern in one direction only, you can repeat as long as you do not let up with your first hand. You can see if you need to slide again as long as the first hand stays in place. If it is wrong, vacuum it off and start over.
On the quilt machine I slide a 24”x48” piece of 1/8” plexus glass under my top fabric for a firm marking area, then, remove for quilting.

I am fast at this as I have done it for years. If you think this is to long, I don’t type, I peck.
I am just saying…..I hope this helps someone.
Phyllis

Fastpedal

I looked at the stencil on CT. I have not used this stencil. It does not look like a continuous line stencil. No way to connect one repeat to the next. Also, it would be very difficult to use with a walking foot. The thought occurs to me that perhaps you can mark through the lines with a "washable felt marker". Try on a sample and do FM. Takes a while to get the hang of it but once you do you'll love it. I trace my continuous line quilting design on golden thread paper and FM quilt that way.