Ready to pull my hair out.
11-02-2013, 05:31 PM
#1
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Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 170
Ready to pull my hair out.
I am ready to pull my hair out. Seriously.
I have a Juki sewing machine on a Grace frame that I am having issues with.
It loves to break needles!
I stitched 3 rows that didn't look to bad but not the best either. The tension needed to be adjusted. I tightened it a little and now it's breaking needles. If I put it back where it was the top tension is to loose.
Any suggestions?
Thanks for listening and your help.
I have a Juki sewing machine on a Grace frame that I am having issues with.
It loves to break needles!
I stitched 3 rows that didn't look to bad but not the best either. The tension needed to be adjusted. I tightened it a little and now it's breaking needles. If I put it back where it was the top tension is to loose.
Any suggestions?
Thanks for listening and your help.
11-02-2013, 05:49 PM
#4
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Western Wisconsin
Posts: 12,930
Have you adjusted tension according to this Jamie Wallen video?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q1mRhcquZTM
If not, I highly recommend that you try it. This technique works for all sewing machines, not just longarms. Basically you loosen the bobbin tension as much as possible first, then adjust the top tension. Be careful when adjusting that bobbin screw. I could not get mine as loose as he demonstrates; the screw fell out of the bobbin case first! Luckily, I saw where it went and was able to retrieve it. It's often recommended to loosen the bobbin screw while holding the bobbin and screwdriver inside a plastic bag. That way, if the screw comes out, you have a good chance of keeping it.
Also, what thread and needle size are you using? You may need to use a larger needle. For quilting on a frame, I find that it's helpful to use a much larger needle than I used when quilting on my domestic machine. Typically at least a size 16 is recommended, and I actually use a size 18. Larger needles are stronger and can take the speed and added stress of the machine moving on the frame.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q1mRhcquZTM
If not, I highly recommend that you try it. This technique works for all sewing machines, not just longarms. Basically you loosen the bobbin tension as much as possible first, then adjust the top tension. Be careful when adjusting that bobbin screw. I could not get mine as loose as he demonstrates; the screw fell out of the bobbin case first! Luckily, I saw where it went and was able to retrieve it. It's often recommended to loosen the bobbin screw while holding the bobbin and screwdriver inside a plastic bag. That way, if the screw comes out, you have a good chance of keeping it.
Also, what thread and needle size are you using? You may need to use a larger needle. For quilting on a frame, I find that it's helpful to use a much larger needle than I used when quilting on my domestic machine. Typically at least a size 16 is recommended, and I actually use a size 18. Larger needles are stronger and can take the speed and added stress of the machine moving on the frame.
11-02-2013, 06:03 PM
#5
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Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 170
Thank you for the link. I haven't seen it.
I am using superior 50 wt. thread for quilting. The needle is a Juki 14. I also used a Organ 14. Went today and got bluejean wt. 16 needle. Not a Juki or organ. I can't remember the name of the brand but it is what Kathy Quilt sells on her site. It was the heaviest I could find at the fabric store.
Where do you get a size 18?
I do FMQ without the frame on a Kenmore. Thought it would be easier on a frame.
I am using superior 50 wt. thread for quilting. The needle is a Juki 14. I also used a Organ 14. Went today and got bluejean wt. 16 needle. Not a Juki or organ. I can't remember the name of the brand but it is what Kathy Quilt sells on her site. It was the heaviest I could find at the fabric store.
Where do you get a size 18?
I do FMQ without the frame on a Kenmore. Thought it would be easier on a frame.
11-02-2013, 06:17 PM
#6
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Western Wisconsin
Posts: 12,930
Superior Threads has quite a bit of information on needles. Their titanium-coated topstitch needle in a size 16 would probably be the best one for your Juki:
http://www.superiorthreads.com/produ...chine-needles/
I have a Voyager, which is a stretched industrial Singer (takes a needle with a rounded upper shaft), and I have been able to buy the correct needles for it on eBay. They go up at least to a size 20 for industrial and longarm machines, and no doubt even larger for some. However, size 16 may be the biggest your Juki can take.
Try adjusting tension via the video; it should help a lot. I'm not sure about a denim needle for quilting on a frame, but in your situation I would certainly give it a try once the tensions are readjusted. With tensions adjusted, your size 14 might work too.
A domestic machine faces different stresses when placed on a frame. However, you can adjust for those stresses.
One other thing I would ask is how tight is your quilt in the frame? It's a common beginner mistake to keep the quilt too taut. Rule-of-thumb is to be able to grab a finger that is poked up from below. The quilt sandwich needs to be a little loose in the frame.
http://www.superiorthreads.com/produ...chine-needles/
I have a Voyager, which is a stretched industrial Singer (takes a needle with a rounded upper shaft), and I have been able to buy the correct needles for it on eBay. They go up at least to a size 20 for industrial and longarm machines, and no doubt even larger for some. However, size 16 may be the biggest your Juki can take.
Try adjusting tension via the video; it should help a lot. I'm not sure about a denim needle for quilting on a frame, but in your situation I would certainly give it a try once the tensions are readjusted. With tensions adjusted, your size 14 might work too.
A domestic machine faces different stresses when placed on a frame. However, you can adjust for those stresses.
One other thing I would ask is how tight is your quilt in the frame? It's a common beginner mistake to keep the quilt too taut. Rule-of-thumb is to be able to grab a finger that is poked up from below. The quilt sandwich needs to be a little loose in the frame.
11-02-2013, 06:25 PM
#7
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 170
I can poke my finger up from the bottom and grab from below.
I found that information some where.
Let me ask you a question.
I know that when the pressure foot is up the thread flows freely in the upper tension. And when the foot is down it is harder to pull. In my machine it is hard to pull the thread through the upper tension disks. Even after I have loosened the tension. My kenmore doesn't act like that. It is snug but not tight in my kenmore. Is it normal for it to be that hard to pull in the upper tension?
Thank you for the info.
I found that information some where.
Let me ask you a question.
I know that when the pressure foot is up the thread flows freely in the upper tension. And when the foot is down it is harder to pull. In my machine it is hard to pull the thread through the upper tension disks. Even after I have loosened the tension. My kenmore doesn't act like that. It is snug but not tight in my kenmore. Is it normal for it to be that hard to pull in the upper tension?
Thank you for the info.
Last edited by Kani; 11-02-2013 at 06:45 PM.
11-02-2013, 07:03 PM
#8
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Western Wisconsin
Posts: 12,930
It doesn't sound normal to me. Are you sure the check spring in the upper tension is okay? I think you get that problem when the spring is broken (or worn out, so the spring doesn't have much "spring" left in it). I don't have a Juki so I can't test. The spring I am talking about is the wire located on the left side of the upper tension. Your thread goes around the tension discs and then through that wire.
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