Rusted rotary cutters!
07-05-2010, 07:18 AM
#11
Super Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Holland, PA
Posts: 4,157
I found this link for dealing with rusting scissors. Advise should apply to cutter as well.
http://answers.yahoo.com/question/in...3121925AAreBw5
http://answers.yahoo.com/question/in...3121925AAreBw5
07-05-2010, 07:28 AM
#12
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Rotterdam, NY
Posts: 148
Originally Posted by Chasing Hawk
Pins are a lot cheaper to replace than those blades. I say toss the pins and get some shiney new ones.
Speaking of blades.......I use a Fiskar's rotary cutter, and those blades are 3 for 15 bucks. But I found a bargain...At Harbor Frieght of all places. Carpet blades, 45mm ones that fit my Fiskar's, for $1.49 a pack (2 blades). I bought all they had so now I have like 30 blades for 22.00 dollars. They are also sold online at their website if the store is out of stock.
Speaking of blades.......I use a Fiskar's rotary cutter, and those blades are 3 for 15 bucks. But I found a bargain...At Harbor Frieght of all places. Carpet blades, 45mm ones that fit my Fiskar's, for $1.49 a pack (2 blades). I bought all they had so now I have like 30 blades for 22.00 dollars. They are also sold online at their website if the store is out of stock.
07-05-2010, 11:06 AM
#13
Super Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: PA
Posts: 2,879
Originally Posted by trif
I would be more concerned if you accidentally cute yourself with a rusty blade than anything. Is it worth the risk? Personnally I would deal with the loss and get new blades.
07-05-2010, 12:51 PM
#15
Super Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: High Entropy Zone
Posts: 1,247
Once the original surface has started oxidizing, you need to halt the process. Pins might clean up using a pin cushion filled with sand or that emory rock stuff. Personally, I would write those off. They really aren't worth it.
Blades I would leave on the cutter to handle better and work on one side at a time using naval jelly or emory cloth, etc. After removing the rust in your preferred method you need to provide an oxidation barrier (somthing like your sewing machine oil will work) on the blade (apply with a cotton ball to prevent cutting yourself up). Otherwise the blade will just oxidize all over again.
Blades I would leave on the cutter to handle better and work on one side at a time using naval jelly or emory cloth, etc. After removing the rust in your preferred method you need to provide an oxidation barrier (somthing like your sewing machine oil will work) on the blade (apply with a cotton ball to prevent cutting yourself up). Otherwise the blade will just oxidize all over again.
07-05-2010, 01:39 PM
#17
Super Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Crystal River Florida
Posts: 9,785
Originally Posted by wvdek
Ask Billy or Eddie what they would do.
I think that I would try a gentle soap and water with a non abrasive cleaner. If that worked, then a wipe down with machine oil and put in a clean dry covered container. Of course you would carefully wipe clean before use. Otherwise, toss and start anew.
I think that I would try a gentle soap and water with a non abrasive cleaner. If that worked, then a wipe down with machine oil and put in a clean dry covered container. Of course you would carefully wipe clean before use. Otherwise, toss and start anew.
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