SCANT 1/4 INCH IS MAKING ME CRAZY
#1
I've been quilting for almost ten years and continue to find sewing a scant 1/4 inch very frustrating. Is there such a thing as a quilting foot that measures this elusive 1/4 inch? If there is, I would love to own one. or is this just another one of my pipedreams.
#4
I know. this new "scant 1/4 inch" is enough to drive you crazy. I've come across it and my question is...."Why not just give us the correct measurements to cut the fabric, so then we can just sew the normal 1/4 inch? "
#5
I would not piece without my 1/4 foot with attached guide. Without the guide it's useless to me. I have one for all my machines from Featherweight to Janome. they are easy to find on Ebay and most machine shops online.
The directions would say cut strips to 1/32" if the scant 1/4" was factored in. Most would freak at that measurement. LOL
The directions would say cut strips to 1/32" if the scant 1/4" was factored in. Most would freak at that measurement. LOL
#6
Originally Posted by BellaBoo
I would not piece without my 1/4 foot with attached guide. Without the guide it's useless to me. I have one for all my machines from Featherweight to Janome. they are easy to find on Ebay and most machine shops online.
The directions would say cut strips to 1/32" if the scant 1/4" was factored in. Most would freak at that measurement. LOL
The directions would say cut strips to 1/32" if the scant 1/4" was factored in. Most would freak at that measurement. LOL
I have a Janome 6600 and I adjust the needle position by 2 clicks to the right to compensate.
#8
Power Poster
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Western Wisconsin
Posts: 12,930
I don't rely on a foot. I use a strip of heavyweight moleskin and butt my fabric up against that as I sew. My seams turn out much more even that way.
To measure the scant 1/4" for moleskin placement, I place my favorite cutting ruler under the presser foot, make sure it is positioned fairly straight front-to-back, move my needle position one place to the right (with my older Bernina I have to do this in order for the moleskin to clear the feeddogs), lower the needle so that it touches the ruler just to the right of the 1/4" line, and lower the presser foot to hold the ruler in place. I have already cut the moleskin into strips using a ruler and rotary cutter, so I just remove the paper from the back of the moleskin and carefully position it so it is butted up against my ruler edge.
Although I often use just a 2" or 3" long strip of moleskin, my preference if I am going to be sewing long strips together is to make the moleskin strip even longer, so it is guiding the fabric long before the fabric actually gets to the needle.
Anyway, with this method I don't have to force my eyes to constantly look at the marking on a foot; as long as the fabric is butting up against the moleskin as it feeds, I am going to get a good seamline.
As someone else mentioned, thread thickness can affect seam width. Once you have the moleskin positioned, it's a good idea to do a test of 3 2-1/2" strips sewn together so that, when ironed, you are sure the finished measurement is exactly what it should be.
Moleskin is available in the foot section of pharmacies. It is a cushioning product sold for placing on heels, etc., to prevent blisters or protect a blister from rubbing.
To measure the scant 1/4" for moleskin placement, I place my favorite cutting ruler under the presser foot, make sure it is positioned fairly straight front-to-back, move my needle position one place to the right (with my older Bernina I have to do this in order for the moleskin to clear the feeddogs), lower the needle so that it touches the ruler just to the right of the 1/4" line, and lower the presser foot to hold the ruler in place. I have already cut the moleskin into strips using a ruler and rotary cutter, so I just remove the paper from the back of the moleskin and carefully position it so it is butted up against my ruler edge.
Although I often use just a 2" or 3" long strip of moleskin, my preference if I am going to be sewing long strips together is to make the moleskin strip even longer, so it is guiding the fabric long before the fabric actually gets to the needle.
Anyway, with this method I don't have to force my eyes to constantly look at the marking on a foot; as long as the fabric is butting up against the moleskin as it feeds, I am going to get a good seamline.
As someone else mentioned, thread thickness can affect seam width. Once you have the moleskin positioned, it's a good idea to do a test of 3 2-1/2" strips sewn together so that, when ironed, you are sure the finished measurement is exactly what it should be.
Moleskin is available in the foot section of pharmacies. It is a cushioning product sold for placing on heels, etc., to prevent blisters or protect a blister from rubbing.
#9
Super Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Outer Space
Posts: 9,319
The 1/4" foot is NOT the issue and typically it's not the pattern either. You will have to move the needle position based on fabric and thread thickness as mentioned before. I have to move my needle when working with flannels(thicker) and the different brands and weights also affect the seam allowance. It's always best to do a test run of the fabrics you're using with the thread and move your needle over if need be. Usually I don't have to move my needle at all if I'm using LQS fabric with Aurifil 50 wt. thread. But, if I change any of those, I do a sample.
#10
Super Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 5,453
Originally Posted by sewcrafty
Originally Posted by BellaBoo
I would not piece without my 1/4 foot with attached guide. Without the guide it's useless to me. I have one for all my machines from Featherweight to Janome. they are easy to find on Ebay and most machine shops online.
The directions would say cut strips to 1/32" if the scant 1/4" was factored in. Most would freak at that measurement. LOL
The directions would say cut strips to 1/32" if the scant 1/4" was factored in. Most would freak at that measurement. LOL
I have a Janome 6600 and I adjust the needle position by 2 clicks to the right to compensate.
and i also have the 6600 and the 1 or 2 clicks for me..are good.
(depends on what thread i am using.)
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
ProquiltLongarmARTQUILTER
Main
25
02-20-2008 07:09 AM
ArtquilterNEWWAYtoQUILT
Main
16
12-11-2007 04:00 PM