bearisgray

It's still a good idea to check - because of variations in how a person may cut - example: my 2.5 inch strip is probably actually 2.55 inches wide - because of the "extra" fabric between the template/ruler edge and where the blade cuts.

debbieumphress

My last class showed us the difference between the scant and the regular. Some patterns say to use a scant 1/4" also. If you take that little bit left from the scant 1/4" on one seam adn do it on all sides, it makes up to a big difference in block sizes. There really is a reason for scant. Now how can I adjust my machine? I order a ruler type thingie form her shop which when placed on your machine, you put the needle down in the 1/4" scant and can put blue tape down so you can use it as a line to follow. Then it has 4-6 other holes for making precise seams. When I get it I will post what and where you can find one. Thanks for this post. YOu have all helped.

gale

I have two janome machines and neither one have a 1/4" seam at the default center position with the janome patchwork foot. Annoying-it's a good thing I love my machines. Like Patrice, I don't usually worry about it once I get it right for one project. I sometimes have several projects going at once and don't want to worry about changing my needle position every time I sit down with a different sewing job. Plus on my first quilt top with my new machine I had it perfect, then it wasn't, then I redid it, then it wasn't again, and I finally redid it one last time and vowed I would not even bother to check it. It all fit together fine, even my piano key border.

Also, I look for patterns where it doesn't matter.

lab fairy

Once you get the rhythm of your 1/4 inch seam down you will start recognizing when it is off. My first few blocks just didn't seem to work quite right and the woman who ended up teaching my "Intro to Quilting" class would look at them and say..."your seam is bigger than 1/4 inch". Darned if she wasn't right. She could tell in a look.

We calibrated my machine (my way of saying we figured out where to set the needle for the 1/4 inch seam) on my quilt. After finishing 30 star blocks, I can tell a 1/4 inch seam too. I can promise that once you figure it out and practice it will get easier. My blocks aren't perfect but my points now usually match. I might need to trim down slightly but that is far easier than trying to add fabric in the end. (Oh yeah, I also learned that I'm supposed to PRESS not iron. Go figure. I bought an iron :lol: )

VickyS

Love all the comments - some more things to tack onto this conversation from a 2 page note from my local quilt club Amador Valley Quilters on "How to attain Accuracy" for our block of the month. Author Jan Steinhoff.

Touching on the things not mentioned in the prior post comments:
Fabric should be smooth, no wrinkles
Be consistent on the measuring (do you cut to the left or the right of the ruler marking every time??)

Don't speed when you sew. Don't stitch over pins - it can cause inaccuracy by slightly delaying the stitch, thus shortening it.

Do not use large needles and extra thick thread - the finer the better/more accurate.

Align fabric edges properly - if you are even a thread off, the seam will not measure accurately.

Press seams flat - don't iron (drag iron over fabric). Lift and put iron down flat. Set stitches by pressing seam flat first. Then roll it over so you press it open, Press down, lift up - don't grind iron down the seam.

Fun fact - in a 12" block with inch long components - if you are off by 1/16 of an inch in each component, you will be off by 3/4 of an inch at the end.