Seamless color changes possible?
#1
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Location: Buffalo, N.Y.
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Say I wanted a 4 inch square, with only one corner black.
(posting pic to explain)
Is it possible to get that without the (green) seams in the white section?
Like a one piece "L" with the black added? If so, how? Thx
(posting pic to explain)
Is it possible to get that without the (green) seams in the white section?
Like a one piece "L" with the black added? If so, how? Thx
#2
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Anchorage, AK
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yes, and it's not something I do well or often. It was done frequently in sewing garments and I learned there I didn't want to do it if I didn't have to. you have to carefully mark on the L shaped fabric where the two seamlines meet at the corner, and also mark where the seamlines meet on the square corner block - the part that fits into the L. match these two points up and start your seam. Turning at the corner can be awkward, so many seamstresses start seams at the inside corner by putting the needle down exactly where the two points meet (the ones you marked carefully) and then stitching toward the outside of the seam. Do first one side then the other, both times starting in the center and working out so you make sure that the stitch gets right into that point.
If you want to press the seam allowance toward the L shaped fabric, you'll need to clip INTO the seam allowance at the corner of the L. If you want to press the seam allowance toward the square, you'll probably need to cut the corner of the square diagonally to get rid of bulk or clip into the seam allowance on each side of the corner point so that the excess fabric can lap over the excess fabric next to it. Does that make sense?
If you want to press the seam allowance toward the L shaped fabric, you'll need to clip INTO the seam allowance at the corner of the L. If you want to press the seam allowance toward the square, you'll probably need to cut the corner of the square diagonally to get rid of bulk or clip into the seam allowance on each side of the corner point so that the excess fabric can lap over the excess fabric next to it. Does that make sense?
#3
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Beth:
This is tricky but do-able.
From the white:
Cut a block 4.5" square. Using an accurate measurement, cut a 2.25" square from one corner.
From the black:
Cut a 2.5" square. Using an accurate 1/4" ruler, mark a 1/4" "seam" line around all four sides.
With right sides together, place the black square in any corner of the white square. Follow accurately, the drawn seam line. Stitch from outer edge to center. ending at the junction of two marked lines. Back stitch one stitch to secure. Remove from the machine.
Open the new block with the black now in the upper left corner and finger press the seam you just made. Fold the top half of the block toward the bottom. You will have a "pucker" at what will be the junction of the two new seams. Carefully clip the pucker to within 2 threads of the drawn seam line.
The block should then lie flat and should be stitched from center to edge. (Use the "needle down" to make sure you start on the exact stitch of the previously sewn seam. You've completed a "Y" seam. open the block and press flat. Make certain the back seams are lying flat.
This is tricky but do-able.
From the white:
Cut a block 4.5" square. Using an accurate measurement, cut a 2.25" square from one corner.
From the black:
Cut a 2.5" square. Using an accurate 1/4" ruler, mark a 1/4" "seam" line around all four sides.
With right sides together, place the black square in any corner of the white square. Follow accurately, the drawn seam line. Stitch from outer edge to center. ending at the junction of two marked lines. Back stitch one stitch to secure. Remove from the machine.
Open the new block with the black now in the upper left corner and finger press the seam you just made. Fold the top half of the block toward the bottom. You will have a "pucker" at what will be the junction of the two new seams. Carefully clip the pucker to within 2 threads of the drawn seam line.
The block should then lie flat and should be stitched from center to edge. (Use the "needle down" to make sure you start on the exact stitch of the previously sewn seam. You've completed a "Y" seam. open the block and press flat. Make certain the back seams are lying flat.
#4
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Thank you both very very much.
That's exactly what I need to do! There are a couple spots in my background where the extra seams on the solid part would stick out like a sore thumb.
Thanks again!
That's exactly what I need to do! There are a couple spots in my background where the extra seams on the solid part would stick out like a sore thumb.
Thanks again!
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