Seating b locks....

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02-12-2011, 01:56 PM

#21

Mariah

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Join Date: Feb 2010

Location: Pittsburg, Kansas

Posts: 1,691

That was one of my downfalls; stitching over the pins, and I broke a needle not long ago.
Mariah

02-12-2011, 02:07 PM

#22

montanajan

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Join Date: Dec 2010

Location: NW Montana

Posts: 1,275

We have a Singer dealer in the town where I shop. PM me & I'll give you the info if you want to contact him. Its in NW Montana, but shipping won't be much, wherever you buy for that small an item.

02-13-2011, 03:09 AM

#23

helou

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Join Date: Feb 2011

Location: Quebec, Canada

Posts: 1,861

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mariah

REply to Scissor Queen,
How do you do it then if you don't sew the entire row together?
Mariah

I'm interested to know too,.

02-13-2011, 03:51 AM

#24

eparys

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Join Date: Sep 2008

Location: New England, USA

Posts: 2,963

Quote:

Originally Posted by clem55

I place my pin right on the joined seamline and sew right up to the pin, stop and remove pin and go on. Once in awhile I sew right over the pin!

I usually do this but when I sew over the pin - I slow WAY down. I also make sure that the seams are pressed in the opposite directions so that they nestle together. If I take the pin out before I get to the point/seam I use a stilletto, as Jan in VA discussed, - that makes sure that that they sty together.

I have also seen where some sewers hand tack points and seams that they are especially concerned about.

02-13-2011, 04:08 AM

#25

helou

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Join Date: Feb 2011

Location: Quebec, Canada

Posts: 1,861

Quote:

Originally Posted by eparys

I have also seen where some sewers hand tack points and seams that they are especially concerned about.

Oh! good idea, I never thought of that. Sometimes I sew so slowly with my machine that it would be almost as fast tacking the points first

:thumbup:

02-13-2011, 04:12 AM

#26

Jackie D

Junior Member

Join Date: Oct 2010

Location: Williams In.

Posts: 192

Heres somthing you might try too. When sewing 2 long rows of blocks together. Just pin and sew where the "joints" are.
Not the whole long row. That way if you have any tearing out to do its only a couple of inches. Sew, check your work, if theres no tearing out then go back and sew your seam.

02-13-2011, 04:22 AM

#27

janiesews

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Join Date: Feb 2008

Location: Iola KS

Posts: 2,834

My walking foot for my Featherweight is an AlphaSew and it wasn't very expenxive. Under $25.00 with shipping .

02-13-2011, 04:22 AM

#28

janiesews

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Join Date: Feb 2008

Location: Iola KS

Posts: 2,834

My walking foot for my Featherweight is an AlphaSew and it wasn't very expenxive. Under $25.00 with shipping .

02-13-2011, 04:30 AM

#29

Yooper32

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Join Date: Jan 2011

Location: Tippy-top of a ridge in WV

Posts: 6,355

My greatest help is to use a stiletto to help guide and keep the top fabric from being pushed back towards me as it goes under the foot.

02-13-2011, 05:26 AM

#30

anicra

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Join Date: Jun 2010

Location: Flemington, NJ

Posts: 1,167

I have been a big believer of Elmer's Glue for a long time. Since I don't have one of those tip applicators, I use a paint brush. I put some on a piece of saran wrap or a paper plate and use a small paint brush to apply the glue. Works great and washes out of the paint brush.