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    Old 02-13-2011, 07:26 AM
      #41  
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    Press your seams in opposite directions and pinning exactly in the seam line and then a pin on each side of that pin. As I sew up to the first pin I remove it and when I am one stitch from the center pin, I remove it and then the third pin. I find that this works for me. I hate frogging (rip-it, rip-it).

    I found a walking foot for my featherweight at the Houston quilt show and, while I don't remember exactly how much I paid, it was was under $50. It works great. Hope this helps.
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    Old 02-13-2011, 07:31 AM
      #42  
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    Great instrucions. I had not ever heard of doing it this way, but it seems very logical and workable.
    thanks, Mariah.
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    Old 02-13-2011, 07:55 AM
      #43  
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    If possible have the top seam facing into the machine and the bottom seam facing away from macine. this lets the top seam butt into the bottom seam. sometimes if can't do the whole seam this way I will stop and turn the block over and start from other end. I use clovers fine pins and can sew over them going slowly if have a problem seam. I pin on both sides of the seam into each seam allowance this holds it in place. good luck
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    Old 02-13-2011, 08:03 AM
      #44  
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    I bought a generic walking foot for my featherweight for about 30 or 40 bucks and it works great. Check around on pricing.
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    Old 02-13-2011, 08:04 AM
      #45  
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    I pin on both sides of the seam, only a couple threads width from the seam. I leave my pins in, and when coming to a seam, I sloooooow right down until I'm over both pins, THEN I take my pins out and move along to the next. It is time consuming, for sure, but my seams end up nearly perfect every time.
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    Old 02-13-2011, 08:16 AM
      #46  
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    Fab tips yet again!
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    Old 02-13-2011, 09:27 AM
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    I also use glue especially on long seams. I use either elmers white glue or usually glue stick, just a dab & I heat set it with my iron and have had much luck with this method. I discovered this when doing a memory crazy quilt for my daughter with a lot of different kinds and weights of fabrics that kept slipping and the pins just did not hold it together very well.
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    Old 02-13-2011, 10:15 AM
      #48  
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    [quote=Prism99]Glue baste the joins instead of pinning the joins. I do this at the ironing board. Align the seams as you want them, then put the tiniest dot of glue inside the seamline and press with the hot iron. I use Elmer's washable white glue. The glue washes out later or, if you need to open up the seam, comes apart if moistened with a drop of water from your fingertip.

    Thanks so much for this tip...sure is making my life easier :lol:
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    Old 02-13-2011, 10:16 AM
      #49  
    SEW
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    Originally Posted by Mariah
    thanks for your answer. I believe the stitch got too short. I was using this new gadget that makes snowballs, geese, ect, for the first time, and didn't notice the stitch got so short until I was taking some out.
    I need to get a walking foot. I know it would be a great investment. Believe for my featherweight it would be $125.00. I know it would solve a lot of problems.
    Thanks again!
    Mariah.
    I have a featherweight and I use a singer low shank walking foot without any trouble. I believe I paid 20.00 for one several years ago.
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    Old 02-13-2011, 10:30 AM
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    what are folk-pins? I have to use safety pins due to termors also use large coated paper clips.
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