Seating b locks....
#75
Originally Posted by Mariah
I realize this is a basic quilting question,but one I continue to have trouble with. When I sew rows of blocks together, I pin the joints and everything looks perfect. Then I tend to take out the pins as running over can cause broken needles.
Can anyone suggest how to get your blocks lined up perfectly at the joints without so much back tracking; fixing blocks that moved.
Thanks, Mariah.
Can anyone suggest how to get your blocks lined up perfectly at the joints without so much back tracking; fixing blocks that moved.
Thanks, Mariah.
#77
Super Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Lumby, British Columbia
Posts: 2,769
I don't know where you live, but in Canada a walking foot for a feather weight is @ $40.00 I have 2 feather weights and had to buy walking feet for both. Just thought you would like to know.
#78
Here is a link for the walking foot that fits the FW machines and several other old Singers. The link to purchase is on the page as well as the info you need about the foot it's self. It's $20.
http://blog.sew-classic.com/2009/11/...king-foot.aspx
http://blog.sew-classic.com/2009/11/...king-foot.aspx
#79
Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 144
ok I hope I can get this soou can understand it! m put pin in straight up and down in both seams right sides together. p erpendicular to fabric. pin horozontillay on either sideof first pin remove first pn and sew it always works for me
#80
Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Michigan's UP
Posts: 96
I pin parallel to the stitching line -- OUTSIDE the seam allowance. If seams are pressed in opposite directions, this should be sufficient. I also keep my Clover seam ripper on my machine deck to use as a stiletto with a little pressure. It is so fine that it goes right under the presser-foot to keep seam in place, yet it can be pulled out just before the needle goes down. I shouldn't say this, but I've never hit the ripper point with a needle (please don't let this jinx me!). I haven't tried glue, but have pinned like this: put a pin through the seam intersection of top piece, then continue the point through the intersection in the bottom piece. with the pin at 90 deg. of the fabric, pin (perpendicular) just before and just after the seam and parallel to the seam "boxing it in." Remove pins just before you come to them. For really tough intersections, do this AND do 4-6 basting stitches, then check accuracy before doing final stitches. Remove basting after stitching.
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fred singer
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06-14-2012 04:30 PM