Seating b locks....
02-14-2011, 08:27 AM
#82
Super Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: East Arkansas
Posts: 2,534
Originally Posted by hobo2000
Originally Posted by Mariah
thanks for your answer. I believe the stitch got too short. I was using this new gadget that makes snowballs, geese, ect, for the first time, and didn't notice the stitch got so short until I was taking some out.
I need to get a walking foot. I know it would be a great investment. Believe for my featherweight it would be $125.00. I know it would solve a lot of problems.
Thanks again!
Mariah.
I need to get a walking foot. I know it would be a great investment. Believe for my featherweight it would be $125.00. I know it would solve a lot of problems.
Thanks again!
Mariah.
Will the generic ones not work on all machines if you have a low shank, etc.?
02-14-2011, 08:32 AM
#83
Power Poster
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Western Wisconsin
Posts: 12,930
I think the problem with using a standard short-shank walking foot on a featherweight is that the standard foot is wider than the feed dogs on the FW. Ideally you want a walking foot that matches the feed dogs exactly.
02-14-2011, 11:46 AM
#85
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Illinois & Wisconsin
Posts: 824
Originally Posted by Jan in VA
I pin just before the join at each intersection; I also use a stilletto to support/guide/direct my fabric under the needle, especially when the seam is pressed the 'wrong' direction for that intersection.
On particularly troublesome pieces -- some fabric just plain has a stretchy mind of its own -- I might make 4-5 stitches exactly over the joins and then go back and sew the whole piece.
Jan in VA
On particularly troublesome pieces -- some fabric just plain has a stretchy mind of its own -- I might make 4-5 stitches exactly over the joins and then go back and sew the whole piece.
Jan in VA
02-14-2011, 06:36 PM
#86
Super Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Clearwater, FL
Posts: 2,328
Originally Posted by Prism99
Glue baste the joins instead of pinning the joins. I do this at the ironing board. Align the seams as you want them, then put the tiniest dot of glue inside the seamline and press with the hot iron. I use Elmer's washable white glue. The glue washes out later or, if you need to open up the seam, comes apart if moistened with a drop of water from your fingertip.
Note: It is still a good idea to pin an inch or so before each seam. You can take the pins out as you get to them so you don't sew over them. This helps ensure that you don't have excess fabric on top or bottom when you get to the glue-basted seam.
Note: It is still a good idea to pin an inch or so before each seam. You can take the pins out as you get to them so you don't sew over them. This helps ensure that you don't have excess fabric on top or bottom when you get to the glue-basted seam.
02-18-2011, 02:09 AM
#88
Super Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Queensland Australia
Posts: 1,388
Originally Posted by Mariah
I realize this is a basic quilting question,but one I continue to have trouble with. When I sew rows of blocks together, I pin the joints and everything looks perfect. Then I tend to take out the pins as running over can cause broken needles.
Can anyone suggest how to get your blocks lined up perfectly at the joints without so much back tracking; fixing blocks that moved.
Thanks, Mariah.
Can anyone suggest how to get your blocks lined up perfectly at the joints without so much back tracking; fixing blocks that moved.
Thanks, Mariah.
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