ManiacQuilter2

I try to avoid sewing on the bias. There is featherweight fusible interfacing made from Pellon sold at JAF. I would try to make a test block using a light spraying of starch and see how accurate the block comes out.

mom-6

I'm not sure why you think you would need the stabilizer or interfacing just for basic triangles. As long as you are careful when pressing you shouldn't have any major issues unless you tug on the fabric as you stitch. Or if you anticipate a great deal of "unstitching".

celwood

I took a class from Anita Grossman. She reinforces her bias cut lines with 1.5 wide interfacing so the cut lines are stabilized. You can buy the interfacing in rolls.

lclang

Basic triangles should be fine without either starch or interfacing. Just be careful to not stretch as you sew and press carefully.

Lady Diana

Faultless has a wonderful heavy starch.....love it for bias.....Faultless MAXX comes in a hand spray bottle.

maviskw

Why can't we put the fabric into the starch, like we did back in the old day. I would put enough water in a bucket so that the fabric could absorb most of it. Add starch to the desired strength, then put the fabric, unfolded, into the bucket. Work it around until it absorbs all it can. Be sure all of it is wet. Then dry on the line or in a dryer and iron it. This way you would be sure that ALL the fabric has starch. If I painted it on, I'm sure I would miss some.

donna13350

I stole an idea from dressmaking, and just stitched a scant 1/4 on the bias edges..it really helps.

Prism99

I tried something similar with Sta-Flo at first, but quickly realized it would use up too much Sta-Flo at a 1:1 dilution. I haven't done it in awhile, but it seems to me I can heavily starch several yards of fabric with just one cup of Sta-Flo and one cup of water with the painting method. I am very heavy handed with the starch solution, which seems to change the fabric color sufficiently so that it is easy to see which areas have been covered, plus I fold the fabric on itself and let it sit for a few minutes so any spots I might have missed have a chance to absorb the solution from the sopping wet parts. You could dilute the Sta-Flo more than I do, but I figure if I'm going to go to the trouble of starching at all, I might as well get the fabric as stiff (and stable) as possible. No one would want to wear clothing starched the way I do it! I have tried other dilutions. Tried full-strength Sta-Flo once, but it seemed to be difficult for the fabric fibers to absorb it without any water mixed in. 2:1 water and Sta-Flo might be enough, but 4:1 doesn't seem as if it would provide enough stabilization for the trouble (although that would undoubtedly be a better dilution for clothing!).

I am wondering what kind of starch you used years ago too. I would think powdered starch would be considerably less expensive than Sta-Flo, although I can't complain about the cost of Sta-Flo considering it lasts a long time for my uses.

PenniF

Light weight non woven interfacing was the basis and "life blood" of the "watercolor quilts" that were so popular several years ago. I have used it to make really quick pieced quilts too - it does make the quilt a little heavier --- you can use 1/8" instead of 1/4" batting if you want to reduce the "weight".... but to my mind it is a great and simple alternative if you are concerned about dealing with all the bias edges....and once the quilt is done, you will not know it's there. Remember - there are no quilt police.
Good luck with your quilt.

IBQUILTIN

I would use starch, but be very careful when pressing so not to stretch anything