Sewing Together 1 1/2" blocks (finished block size 1 inch)
#1
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Oak Grove, MN
Posts: 1,671
Sewing Together 1 1/2" blocks (finished block size 1 inch)
I am working on a Valentine's Day table runner and I need to make hearts from 1 1/2" half squares and 1 1/2" squares. Does anyone have any times for working with such small pieces? Any pressing help. I am even pressing my seams open and I am worried about the thickness when I go to quilt.
Would appreciate any suggestions.
Would appreciate any suggestions.
#5
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Dillsburg, PA
Posts: 314
I was just reading something in one of my quilting books. The author said that she sews 1/4" seams and then always trims to 1/8". I have never tried it so I don't know how well it works. Seems awful narrow to me. Knowing me the seams would fall apart...lol.
#6
I've sewn smaller than that, but I LOVE tiny pieces and I'm a gluten for punishment. I've done lots of 1/4" finished pieces (3/4" cuts).
Use a LOT of starch!
When you pin, keep the fabric flat on the table to insert the pin, holding the fabric flat and straight with one hand, and inserting the pin with the other. Don't pick the fabric up to pin it. After pinning, check each one to make sure everything is straight and the fabric lays flat and smooth.
Use really long pins and insert them so a good portion sticks well out of the left side of the piece (and your presser foot). I call this my "handle". I try to place a pin as close to the tailing edge of the fabric as possible (by tailing edge, I mean the edge of the fabric that will go though the machine last as the typical problem with small pieces is that the last bit of fabric likes to migrate to the left). You can also use a stiletto, try both ways - I personally like the pins better than the stiletto (although there are still times I use the stiletto).
Use a leader starter piece. It keeps the thread "up" and prevents the smaller pieces from being pulled into the machine.
Start with the needle in the down position, raise the presser foot just a smidge - enough to get your fabric in, but not so much to disengage the tension discs. Slide your fabric all the way forward until it touches the needle, and but it up to the 1/4".
Try to use a 1/4" guide, even if you have to adjust the needle position to get the proper (after ironing) 1/4" seam. The guide really does help me keep my fabric straight.
I learned many of these tips (some are my own) from Sally Collins book "Mastering Precision Piecing". I highly recommend this book, my piecing (both small and large) has improved tremendously since I started employing some of her methods (cutting and sewing).
Hope these tips help.
Sue
Use a LOT of starch!
When you pin, keep the fabric flat on the table to insert the pin, holding the fabric flat and straight with one hand, and inserting the pin with the other. Don't pick the fabric up to pin it. After pinning, check each one to make sure everything is straight and the fabric lays flat and smooth.
Use really long pins and insert them so a good portion sticks well out of the left side of the piece (and your presser foot). I call this my "handle". I try to place a pin as close to the tailing edge of the fabric as possible (by tailing edge, I mean the edge of the fabric that will go though the machine last as the typical problem with small pieces is that the last bit of fabric likes to migrate to the left). You can also use a stiletto, try both ways - I personally like the pins better than the stiletto (although there are still times I use the stiletto).
Use a leader starter piece. It keeps the thread "up" and prevents the smaller pieces from being pulled into the machine.
Start with the needle in the down position, raise the presser foot just a smidge - enough to get your fabric in, but not so much to disengage the tension discs. Slide your fabric all the way forward until it touches the needle, and but it up to the 1/4".
Try to use a 1/4" guide, even if you have to adjust the needle position to get the proper (after ironing) 1/4" seam. The guide really does help me keep my fabric straight.
I learned many of these tips (some are my own) from Sally Collins book "Mastering Precision Piecing". I highly recommend this book, my piecing (both small and large) has improved tremendously since I started employing some of her methods (cutting and sewing).
Hope these tips help.
Sue
Last edited by DogHouseMom; 02-07-2012 at 05:23 PM.
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Oregon
Posts: 685
Draw a 1.5" grid on lightweight fusible interfacing. Lay your pieces out on the grid then iron them down. Now you just fold along the seam and stitch. Working on a postage stamp done this way. http://quiltinaday.com/theater/count...ntryfair1.html
#9
Super Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Washington State
Posts: 1,628
I saw the method Feathers-N-Fur describes demonstrated by some Amish women at the Sewing Expo in Washington a few years ago and it seemed to make the project more doable though I still haven't tried it! Looking forward to seeing your quilt
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