Sharon Schamber's basting method...here I come??
08-07-2013, 07:41 PM
#11
Super Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Monroe, IN
Posts: 2,283
The only tip I can give you on basting quilts is Washable School Glue! Find the tutorial here and give it a try on something small. I was hooked after the first try. I will never baste another quilt using anything but washable school glue and I have done some big ones....last one was 96x96. It is just too easy and cheap!
08-07-2013, 07:56 PM
#12
Super Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Southwest Kansas
Posts: 4,820
Yes I use this method several times and love it (love being relative to the fact that I HATE basting). I have two tips for you ....
1) Baste from the back. The reason being is that the diagonal stitches on the top are longer than the stitches on the back (if you use Sharon's herringbone method). If you flip it and stitch from the back, then quilt it from the front, you'll have less stitches that will catch on your presser foot when quilting. I've tried open and closed toe FMQ feet and both of will catch the longer diagonal stitches of the herringbone, but I had much less of a problem when I basted from the back and had only the shorter horizontal stitches.
2) Use a water soluble thread to baste. You don't have to remove the basting stitches, just stitch over them. If you plan on washing the finished quilt, they'll come out. If you don't plan on washing the quilt, just run a slightly damp wash cloth over it and they'll come out!!
I love how this method keeps my quilt nice and flat while basting, straight while basting, and holds together really well. And no ... I have not had a problem with the water soluble thread breaking even with frequent handling while quilting.
1) Baste from the back. The reason being is that the diagonal stitches on the top are longer than the stitches on the back (if you use Sharon's herringbone method). If you flip it and stitch from the back, then quilt it from the front, you'll have less stitches that will catch on your presser foot when quilting. I've tried open and closed toe FMQ feet and both of will catch the longer diagonal stitches of the herringbone, but I had much less of a problem when I basted from the back and had only the shorter horizontal stitches.
2) Use a water soluble thread to baste. You don't have to remove the basting stitches, just stitch over them. If you plan on washing the finished quilt, they'll come out. If you don't plan on washing the quilt, just run a slightly damp wash cloth over it and they'll come out!!
I love how this method keeps my quilt nice and flat while basting, straight while basting, and holds together really well. And no ... I have not had a problem with the water soluble thread breaking even with frequent handling while quilting.
I used the pearl cotton that comes on a ball or size 20 crochet thread to baste with. I just snipped and pulled the threads out as I quilted.
08-07-2013, 10:47 PM
#13
Super Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: North-Central Indiana
Posts: 4,909
I didn't have luck with this method. I had more problems quilting the one i tried it with than any other I've done the old fashioned way. But I think most people like it. I must have done it wrong (although I followed the videos).
08-08-2013, 11:19 AM
#15
Super Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: North-Central Indiana
Posts: 4,909
08-09-2013, 03:53 AM
#16
Super Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Manteno, IL
Posts: 1,621
funny you should ask....my DH just finished my boards last night. I had him do 10' boards as I have a king size bed. I think you might find it helpful to staple a strip of fabric the length of the board and make it so it hangs past the boards a good 3-4". My boards are 1x4s....the strip I cut was about 6-7".... DH stapled the length of the 10' board with this strip--reason--when I first wrapped my quilt top to the board I ended up with it being 'off' at the end of the wind...hence I had him staple the strip, this way I can pin the edge of the quilt top (and backing on the other board) to the strip and it won't turn on the wood. I hope this helps. I suppose you could also thumb tack the material to the boards, thus eliminating the need for the strip, but then you'd still have to unthumb tack them which I think the pins and strip would be easier. Good Luck!
08-09-2013, 05:27 AM
#17
Super Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Central Wisconsin
Posts: 4,391
funny you should ask....my DH just finished my boards last night. I had him do 10' boards as I have a king size bed. I think you might find it helpful to staple a strip of fabric the length of the board and make it so it hangs past the boards a good 3-4". My boards are 1x4s....the strip I cut was about 6-7".... DH stapled the length of the 10' board with this strip--reason--when I first wrapped my quilt top to the board I ended up with it being 'off' at the end of the wind...hence I had him staple the strip, this way I can pin the edge of the quilt top (and backing on the other board) to the strip and it won't turn on the wood. I hope this helps. I suppose you could also thumb tack the material to the boards, thus eliminating the need for the strip, but then you'd still have to unthumb tack them which I think the pins and strip would be easier. Good Luck!
08-09-2013, 07:05 AM
#20
Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Pasadena, MD
Posts: 63
I basted a quilt for the first time using Sharon's method but used safety pins. I still am not finished quilting did stitch in the ditch around the blocks, now trying to figure out whether to stitch in the ditch around the triangles in the block. Just have a table long enough to hold your boards and the suggestion that TwinRiverFarms "roll the batting around a styrofoam pool noodle" is what I am going to try next time. Do they come in 8ft lengths?
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