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  • Suggestions on straightening?

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    Old 04-07-2010, 05:20 AM
      #21  
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    Originally Posted by thimblebug6000
    Buy some lathing (sp?) it's wood that's about ¼" thick and about 1 ½" wide, this is what I use so that the wallhanging lays flat against the wall not lumped out with the rounded dowel. For small wallhangings I drill a hole in either end of the lathing, put a couple nails in the wall & just slip the wallhanging onto it so there is no hanging wire showing. Add another hanging sleeve to the bottom of the wallhanging and insert the 2nd piece of lathing. Good luck, as it is a very cute wallhanging!
    This is exactly what I'd do also. Adding a hanger sleeve on the bottom is almost a neccesity for a wallhanging of any size. It's actually not a hanger sleeve but there is a piece of flat wood in there to straighten that edge.
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    Old 04-07-2010, 12:25 PM
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    Originally Posted by Pam
    Too cute!! Are you really ready for my solution? Probably NOT the best, but here goes. First of all try steaming it. Pin it squarely to your carpet, if you have a steamer, steam the living daylights out of it, streach it out again to square and let it dry pinned to the floor.

    If that does not work, add hanging sleeves to all 4 sides and insert dowel rods into the pockets and whip stitch it into submission.

    Sounds like it might work

    Also, get rid of the hanging wire, that might be a part of the problem.
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    Old 04-07-2010, 12:31 PM
      #23  
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    Originally Posted by thimblebug6000
    Buy some lathing (sp?) it's wood that's about ¼" thick and about 1 ½" wide, this is what I use so that the wallhanging lays flat against the wall not lumped out with the rounded dowel. For small wallhangings I drill a hole in either end of the lathing, put a couple nails in the wall & just slip the wallhanging onto it so there is no hanging wire showing. Add another hanging sleeve to the bottom of the wallhanging and insert the 2nd piece of lathing. Good luck, as it is a very cute wallhanging!
    lathe - good suggestion.
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    Old 04-07-2010, 08:31 PM
      #24  
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    Look for a post from Dglvr yesterday about how to put a dowel along the bottom part of a quilt to make it hang straight. I thought it was a brilliant idea.
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    Old 04-07-2010, 09:44 PM
      #25  
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    Boy, that's cute.

    I just read someplace that you can sew a triangle in each corner of a wall hanging, put dowel or lathe across the top of the back and hang the wall hanging that way. You would add the second piece of lathe across the bottom and that would fix that bottom edge.

    The author of the original idea may have sewn those triangles in place and covered the edges when the binding went on. You could just hand stitch them on.

    IIRC folded a square piece of fabric in half to make the triangle so she didn't have to hem the long edge of the triangle.

    Someone earlier wrote the hanging of the quilt as it is may be the cause of the problem. That may be true. Slip the wood out of the current sleeve and scotch tape (blue masking tape?) your piece to the wall. If the bump goes away then changing you hanging system may be the cure.

    If whatever is in the sleeve is stretching the top too much it will make the bottom buckle out.

    It a cute piece and well worth some fussing around to make it lay flat.

    Jois
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    Old 04-07-2010, 11:08 PM
      #26  
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    Originally Posted by ktbb
    a couple of ideas...

    first - they now sell magnetic hanger systems for quilts that would replace the need for the wire
    Help! I just googled magnetic hanger systems and cannot for the life of me understand how this would be used for hanging a fabric wall hanging.

    Anyone able to explain it for me?
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    Old 04-08-2010, 03:41 PM
      #27  
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    Originally Posted by Seanette
    I have a wall-hanging quilt DMIL made. She passed it along to me when she was going through an accumulation of stuff, and I do like it. The problem is the way the bottom edge won't lie straight. The first photo is the whole quilt, the second is focused in on the problem area, shooting from below to show the gap from the wall.

    Ironing is probably not an option, around fabric paint, embroidery, and beads.

    I wish my photographic skills were up to showing a rather clever design she worked into a border. I'll see if DH can do better when he gets home, since he's a better photographer.
    Looks to me like it got stretched when you quilted it. i don't think the dowel on the bottom will work. i did that once to a quilt that wouldn't lie flat and it did make the bottom flat, but then the center buckled out! Just changed the location of the problem. I would find a fabric (or if you have any left) to coordinate with the border and inside, trim a bit off, and add a binding. You can add a row of stay-stitching around the edge before you put on the binding to draw it up just a smidge and it will help it lie flat.
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    Old 04-08-2010, 05:19 PM
      #28  
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    Originally Posted by quiltmom04
    Originally Posted by Seanette
    I have a wall-hanging quilt DMIL made. She passed it along to me when she was going through an accumulation of stuff, and I do like it. The problem is the way the bottom edge won't lie straight. The first photo is the whole quilt, the second is focused in on the problem area, shooting from below to show the gap from the wall.

    Ironing is probably not an option, around fabric paint, embroidery, and beads.

    I wish my photographic skills were up to showing a rather clever design she worked into a border. I'll see if DH can do better when he gets home, since he's a better photographer.
    Looks to me like it got stretched when you quilted it. i don't think the dowel on the bottom will work. i did that once to a quilt that wouldn't lie flat and it did make the bottom flat, but then the center buckled out! Just changed the location of the problem. I would find a fabric (or if you have any left) to coordinate with the border and inside, trim a bit off, and add a binding. You can add a row of stay-stitching around the edge before you put on the binding to draw it up just a smidge and it will help it lie flat.
    I didn't make this, DMIL did probably ten years ago or more, so revisions involving remaining materials from the original project are probably not an option.
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    Old 04-09-2010, 06:34 PM
      #29  
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    What a darling quilt. No wonder you want to fix that bumpy bottom! I have made many Frank Lloyd Wright art glass quilts that have 3/4-inch black Kona cotton "leading" for the length of the wall hanging. Sometimes (well, maybe more times than I care to admit) the finished 1/4-inch "leading" doesn't lay straight. I purchased a plant mister and lightly mist the entire quilt. Once it is slightly damp, I straight pin the binding every two inches to a large particle board. Once it dries I have the straightest and most realistic fabric FLW art glass window. Whichever suggestion you use, good luck!
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    Old 04-10-2010, 03:57 AM
      #30  
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    Originally Posted by Belles
    What a darling quilt. No wonder you want to fix that bumpy bottom! I have made many Frank Lloyd Wright art glass quilts that have 3/4-inch black Kona cotton "leading" for the length of the wall hanging. Sometimes (well, maybe more times than I care to admit) the finished 1/4-inch "leading" doesn't lay straight. I purchased a plant mister and lightly mist the entire quilt. Once it is slightly damp, I straight pin the binding every two inches to a large particle board. Once it dries I have the straightest and most realistic fabric FLW art glass window. Whichever suggestion you use, good luck!
    This is the same method you'd use to block a knit piece or a needlework piece. This should work on a quilt as well.
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