Tell me what's happening to my stitches......Please!
11-21-2013, 04:01 PM
#11
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Granbury Texas
Posts: 321
Thanks for your input.........yes I had done all the checks and rechecks on threading path, needle size and new, bobbin direction, and rechecking tension. I am thinking the speed must be the issue. I'm getting ready to start a new project, so will report back on results. Thanks again; you Ladies rock!
11-22-2013, 05:25 AM
#12
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Northwest Texas
Posts: 442
On my Tiara, when I get the little knots on the back, it is always a tension problem. Even though I may think I have the tension right, I need to tweek it a little more. Good luck resolving your problem.
11-22-2013, 05:52 AM
#13
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Location: Illinois
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11-22-2013, 06:49 AM
#15
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Location: Corpus Christi, Tx.
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I have no answer but thanks for the link. Feline fanatic. Added to my favorites
A size 18 is the correct size needle to use with King Tut. Go here and download the "Longarm Machine Thread Reference Guide" http://www.superiorthreads.com/reference-guides/ Hang it up near your LA machine and use it. Remember it is the thread you use that dictates what needle size to use.
Have you tried changing the needle? Did you completely rethread the top? A top thread break can cause the thread path to jump out of whack, had that happen to me once, it double wrapped around the needle take up. Also you may wish to try slowing down. New LAQ who do a loopy design like you pictured tend to go way too fast and then slow down to complete the loop. These drastic changes in speed causes backlash to happen in the bobbin. The bobbin is spinning inside the bobbin case and it causes these loops/skipped stitches to happen. You can switch to magna glide bobbins which help backlash issuses. But, more importantly, you need to try to regulate your speed so you are going a more even speed without the drastic slowdowns and speed ups. Yes your stitch regulator is keeping up with you but the bobbin isn't. This isn't a race so try slowing down a bit.
Have you tried changing the needle? Did you completely rethread the top? A top thread break can cause the thread path to jump out of whack, had that happen to me once, it double wrapped around the needle take up. Also you may wish to try slowing down. New LAQ who do a loopy design like you pictured tend to go way too fast and then slow down to complete the loop. These drastic changes in speed causes backlash to happen in the bobbin. The bobbin is spinning inside the bobbin case and it causes these loops/skipped stitches to happen. You can switch to magna glide bobbins which help backlash issuses. But, more importantly, you need to try to regulate your speed so you are going a more even speed without the drastic slowdowns and speed ups. Yes your stitch regulator is keeping up with you but the bobbin isn't. This isn't a race so try slowing down a bit.
11-22-2013, 08:38 AM
#16
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Round Rock,Texas
Posts: 6,135
This may not be the same but varigated King Tut thread on my Bernina made a little thread knot right before the needle hole while quilting. Scared me when the thread and needle broke. I watched the needle until I finished the quilt and had to stop, cut the thread and re-thread twice more. The thread seemed very linty and that's what made the little ball before the needle. I tried several different needles as well and went with the needle where I could get the balanced stitch. I have not bought a spool of the varigated since.
Sharon
11-22-2013, 10:00 AM
#17
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Not Here
Posts: 3,817
A couple of thoughts (I'm fresh from a 3 day class with Jamie Wallen and comment #1 is from what he taught us)
1. If you can see stars when you hold your quilt up to the light, and you're using no larger than an 18 needle: your tension is too tight. Do his tension test, and probably lower the upper tension. We tend to run our tension -way- tighter than we need to. KingTut is a 40wt cotton thread. It's thick, but it's easier to break than a comparable poly. I would run it as loose as I can get away with.
2. Some KingTut is crosswound, and some is stack wound. Which spool/cone do you have? If it's stack wound, it needs to unwind with the spool turning, not from the top of the spool. If it's a cone, it's probably alright on your machine. My LA dealer told me that if I check their forums that by far the most "difficult" thread to work with - based on the posts - is the KingTut. He also told me that by far the most loved thread to work with - KingTut.
3. I agree that it looks a lot like bobbin backlash on the back of the quilt. Can you load a test sammie and try with 2 different colors and do a significant amount of the same pattern? The reason I say significant is that we often quilt a little differently when we "test" than when we do an actual quilt. (I tend to be a little smoother around corners during a test than when I first start on a quilt, because I don't "care" about the test, and I don't have to think my way out of a jam. Of course if my brain would just get out of my way, I'd do a lot better all around... I digress.)
1. If you can see stars when you hold your quilt up to the light, and you're using no larger than an 18 needle: your tension is too tight. Do his tension test, and probably lower the upper tension. We tend to run our tension -way- tighter than we need to. KingTut is a 40wt cotton thread. It's thick, but it's easier to break than a comparable poly. I would run it as loose as I can get away with.
2. Some KingTut is crosswound, and some is stack wound. Which spool/cone do you have? If it's stack wound, it needs to unwind with the spool turning, not from the top of the spool. If it's a cone, it's probably alright on your machine. My LA dealer told me that if I check their forums that by far the most "difficult" thread to work with - based on the posts - is the KingTut. He also told me that by far the most loved thread to work with - KingTut.
3. I agree that it looks a lot like bobbin backlash on the back of the quilt. Can you load a test sammie and try with 2 different colors and do a significant amount of the same pattern? The reason I say significant is that we often quilt a little differently when we "test" than when we do an actual quilt. (I tend to be a little smoother around corners during a test than when I first start on a quilt, because I don't "care" about the test, and I don't have to think my way out of a jam. Of course if my brain would just get out of my way, I'd do a lot better all around... I digress.)
11-22-2013, 02:06 PM
#19
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Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Brick, NJ
Posts: 819
This has been an interesting thread (pun intended). I have an HQ16 and experience this type of frustration occasionally. One thing that seems to help is using a Magic Genie bobbin washer. I also use them in my Janome (they come in two different sizes, one for domestic machines and one for longarm machines...but you can probably use the smaller one in both machines with no problem). I have heard that the magna glide pre-wound bobbins are also helpful.
There are two excellent online resources for HandiQuilter users: the yahoo group for HandiQuilter, and the HQ Forum (which you can get to from the HandiQuilter website...I think you look under education). The HandiQuilter staff monitor the latter and jump in with suggestions as needed.
There are two excellent online resources for HandiQuilter users: the yahoo group for HandiQuilter, and the HQ Forum (which you can get to from the HandiQuilter website...I think you look under education). The HandiQuilter staff monitor the latter and jump in with suggestions as needed.
11-22-2013, 02:44 PM
#20
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Not Here
Posts: 3,817
MagnaGlide bobbins are great! They take up a lot of the backlash. I would use them before the washers. The other thing that makes me ask is: are your bobbins pre-wound or are you winding your own? The ones you wind can be less consistent and could be causing you some grief. If you're using pre-wound, make sure you clean under your bobbin tension spring more often. Whatever the "glue" is that they use to make the thread stay in a doughnut gets under the spring and causes funky tension too.
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