TL-2200QVP skipping stitches
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2024
Posts: 6
![Default](/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I just received a Juki longarm from a friend who inherited it & could never get to work. Juki is skipping stitches only when in stitch modes Precise and Baste. I have tried everything I can think of. I checked the presser foot height, bobbin tension, needle, and tried the top thread tension. I'm not sure about installing the needle. Any videos you can suggest? Or anything else to check that could cause this skipping?
#2
Super Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Davenport, Iowa
Posts: 3,842
![Default](/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Have you checked to see if there is a Youtube video than can address the problems? My Janome 1600P was skipping stitches and then someone suggested I use a larger needle. Going from a size HL x 5 (14) to a HL x 5 (16) helped. Got a set of the larger sized needles from Amazon.
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 972
![Default](/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Are you getting holes where the stitches should be, or is it just making long stitches?
If the latter, it's the encoders. They need to make good contact to the rails since they tell the head how much it's moved. Make sure the rails on the table and on the carriage are clean and smooth, and that the encoder wheels are making good contact. Have someone watch to make sure they are rotating smoothly with the head movement. Also check to make sure the encoder plugs are tight and clean and that the wires aren't catching on something.
If you're getting holes, it could be too high of a tension, too small of a needle, or moving the head too fast.
If the latter, it's the encoders. They need to make good contact to the rails since they tell the head how much it's moved. Make sure the rails on the table and on the carriage are clean and smooth, and that the encoder wheels are making good contact. Have someone watch to make sure they are rotating smoothly with the head movement. Also check to make sure the encoder plugs are tight and clean and that the wires aren't catching on something.
If you're getting holes, it could be too high of a tension, too small of a needle, or moving the head too fast.
Last edited by mkc; 07-11-2024 at 05:40 AM.
#4
Super Member
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: northern minnesota
Posts: 2,442
![Default](/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I don't know what precise stitch is. I actually don't have a basting stitch on my APQS Lucey, but all I do is put it in stitch regulation mode and make the stitch as long as I can. This works just fine for basting the batting to the backing and the top to the backing and batting. It removes pretty easily when done. Do you use the precise stitching all the time? Interesting how the different macines work.
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 972
![Default](/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Precise stitch is usually regulated - stitches happen as you move and you set a stitch length. When you stop the head, the stitching stops; the faster you go, the faster the head stitches in order to keep the stitch length consistent.
Cruise is usually the term for non-regulated mode (where the head keeps stitching at a stitches-per-minute rate). Stitch length in cruise will change if the speed you move the head changes.
In precise stitch (and I'm guessing basting stitch is something like 1/4" stitch length, regulated), if stitches are long and there are no holes where a stitch normally should be, it means the encoders haven't picked up the movement on the head on the rails OR the signal from them hasn't been properly sent to the head OR the user is moving the head too fast for the encoders to keep up.
Since it sounds like the Juki stitches fine in cruise mode, it's quite unlikely for it to be a timing issue.
Cruise is usually the term for non-regulated mode (where the head keeps stitching at a stitches-per-minute rate). Stitch length in cruise will change if the speed you move the head changes.
In precise stitch (and I'm guessing basting stitch is something like 1/4" stitch length, regulated), if stitches are long and there are no holes where a stitch normally should be, it means the encoders haven't picked up the movement on the head on the rails OR the signal from them hasn't been properly sent to the head OR the user is moving the head too fast for the encoders to keep up.
Since it sounds like the Juki stitches fine in cruise mode, it's quite unlikely for it to be a timing issue.
#6
Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Posts: 25
![Default](/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I have the J350 Miyabi which I believe is the newer version of the 2200QVP. I get good results with a Gros-Beckert 110/18, which is a #4, needle when using 40wt thread. On my machine, I adjust the eye to the 5:30 postion. I usually stitch in cruise mode. I have to say, I've not been happy with precise mode but it could be me and not the machine - I am a ruler quilter and precise just doesn't work well with all my starts and stops. I adjusted my hopping foot to be a credit card width off the fabric when in the down position and that seems to be a good place. Finally, be sure that your fabric is not to taught as that can lead to skipped stitches, but that would most likely happen in all modes not just the two you are having diffculty with. Baste for me works fine so I don't have any ideas for that. Good luck. It is most likely something simple and not a timing issue.
#8
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2024
Posts: 6
![Default](/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Have you checked to see if there is a Youtube video than can address the problems? My Janome 1600P was skipping stitches and then someone suggested I use a larger needle. Going from a size HL x 5 (14) to a HL x 5 (16) helped. Got a set of the larger sized needles from Amazon.
#9
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2024
Posts: 6
![Default](/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Are you getting holes where the stitches should be, or is it just making long stitches?
If the latter, it's the encoders. They need to make good contact to the rails since they tell the head how much it's moved. Make sure the rails on the table and on the carriage are clean and smooth, and that the encoder wheels are making good contact. Have someone watch to make sure they are rotating smoothly with the head movement. Also check to make sure the encoder plugs are tight and clean and that the wires aren't catching on something.
If you're getting holes, it could be too high of a tension, too small of a needle, or moving the head too fast.
If the latter, it's the encoders. They need to make good contact to the rails since they tell the head how much it's moved. Make sure the rails on the table and on the carriage are clean and smooth, and that the encoder wheels are making good contact. Have someone watch to make sure they are rotating smoothly with the head movement. Also check to make sure the encoder plugs are tight and clean and that the wires aren't catching on something.
If you're getting holes, it could be too high of a tension, too small of a needle, or moving the head too fast.
#10
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2024
Posts: 6
![Default](/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I don't know what precise stitch is. I actually don't have a basting stitch on my APQS Lucey, but all I do is put it in stitch regulation mode and make the stitch as long as I can. This works just fine for basting the batting to the backing and the top to the backing and batting. It removes pretty easily when done. Do you use the precise stitching all the time? Interesting how the different macines work.