Tolerance
07-29-2012, 07:17 AM
#11
Banned
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Keene, New Hampshire
Posts: 4,211
How much plus or minus from the expected measurement do you consider acceptable when you make an item?
For example - if the unfinished block size is supposed to be 12.5 inches - and this was for a group project - what measurements would you consider acceptable (and easy to work with)?
For me, my tolerance would be 12.25 to 12.75 inches if 12.50 is the target size.
Because - I could make 1/8 inch seams on the smaller one and the points would not look overly floaty, and I could fairly easily ease in the extra 0.25 inch on the larger one.
For example - if the unfinished block size is supposed to be 12.5 inches - and this was for a group project - what measurements would you consider acceptable (and easy to work with)?
For me, my tolerance would be 12.25 to 12.75 inches if 12.50 is the target size.
Because - I could make 1/8 inch seams on the smaller one and the points would not look overly floaty, and I could fairly easily ease in the extra 0.25 inch on the larger one.
07-29-2012, 08:21 AM
#12
Super Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 4,688
For my own work, consistency is what matters, not a specific measurement. I don't use commercial patterns, so I'm not aiming for someone else's finished size goal. Consistency, however, pretty much means zero tolerance.
The blocks in the last swap/group project I was in measured from 11.25" to 13". I no longer do swaps...that one ate up the last of my 'tolerance'.
The blocks in the last swap/group project I was in measured from 11.25" to 13". I no longer do swaps...that one ate up the last of my 'tolerance'.
07-29-2012, 08:36 AM
#13
Super Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: SW Washington USA
Posts: 4,478
No tolerance. If you work to KNOW where exact 1/4" is on your machine you won't have to worry about it.
And start with pressed starched fabric. Unpressed fabric will grow when you start pressing the seams.
The best way I've found to find that perfect 1/4" on the various machines I've used over the years is start with a pile of 1-1/2 squares and make 9 patches. It is pretty easy to get your 3 patches stitched together to come out a perfect 3-1/2". But when you stitch those 3 strips together into the 9 patch you can quickly find the block is short in one direction.
I probably stitched 2 dozen blocks getting it right on my new Horizon because there are so many setting variables.
Once I had it consistently turning out 3-1/2" square blocks I used a sharpie and wrote those setting on my machine along with which foot.
Do it right and take pride in your hard work and to honor the expense and time that goes into a quilt.
I too have assembled group quilts, it's kinder to just return blocks that aren't right.
And start with pressed starched fabric. Unpressed fabric will grow when you start pressing the seams.
The best way I've found to find that perfect 1/4" on the various machines I've used over the years is start with a pile of 1-1/2 squares and make 9 patches. It is pretty easy to get your 3 patches stitched together to come out a perfect 3-1/2". But when you stitch those 3 strips together into the 9 patch you can quickly find the block is short in one direction.
I probably stitched 2 dozen blocks getting it right on my new Horizon because there are so many setting variables.
Once I had it consistently turning out 3-1/2" square blocks I used a sharpie and wrote those setting on my machine along with which foot.
Do it right and take pride in your hard work and to honor the expense and time that goes into a quilt.
I too have assembled group quilts, it's kinder to just return blocks that aren't right.
07-29-2012, 08:42 AM
#14
Super Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Waupaca Wisconsin
Posts: 1,302
I agree, I learned back with I first started quilting to check my 1/4" seam and always square up my blocks. It saves so much later on, when you find your quilt is not straight or things don't line up. But on another note, I also find I can work around something if I have to, adjust or whatever, but I prefer not to, becasue my first choice is to rip it out and redo it.
Always be proud of what you make, not perfect, but close and proud of it. But enjoy what you do.
Always be proud of what you make, not perfect, but close and proud of it. But enjoy what you do.
for swaps- when a 12 1/2" block is supposed to be swapped there is seldom any (tolerance)---a 12 1/2" block is expected- if you tend to not make your blocks precise you would be best off to make them a little large-then trim to the proper size before sending for the swap- often if your blocks are not correct they are returned unswapped.
if i am working on something for myself i try very hard to make my blocks the size they are supposed to be- even an 1/8" off will add up to a whole inch in only 8 pieces---if my first block does not come out right i figure out why- if i continue to have problems i try to adjust so they are larger & can be trimmed to size.
if your blocks are continuously 1/4" off it only takes 4 to be a whole inch off---if following a pattern that can really cause nothing to work- it is generally best to strive to get them right- not allow yourself a (tolerance)
if i am working on something for myself i try very hard to make my blocks the size they are supposed to be- even an 1/8" off will add up to a whole inch in only 8 pieces---if my first block does not come out right i figure out why- if i continue to have problems i try to adjust so they are larger & can be trimmed to size.
if your blocks are continuously 1/4" off it only takes 4 to be a whole inch off---if following a pattern that can really cause nothing to work- it is generally best to strive to get them right- not allow yourself a (tolerance)
07-29-2012, 08:49 AM
#15
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Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 41,521
If it's for an exchange, I can accept 1/16- 1/8 but any more than that and I do it again and again and sometimes again. That's why I seldom do exchanges. I never do exchanges out of fabric kits because those give me nightmares in case they come out wrong and I have no more fabric. Yikes, too much pressure!
07-29-2012, 10:50 AM
#17
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Western Wisconsin
Posts: 12,930
I don't participate in swaps but, if I did, I would make sure my block was exact. If the block is not too far off in measurement, this can typically be achieved by "blocking" the block. Sharon Schamber has several videos on Youtube that show how to do this with starch and iron. If I could not achieve exact measurements, my tolerance would run a max of 1/8th of an inch.
07-29-2012, 11:12 AM
#18
Super Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: dayton OH
Posts: 1,911
If I was involved in a swap - it would have to be exactly 12.5 inches so that they could be sewn together.
Think about this for a moment - if we sew w/ 1/4 inch seams, a finished square that is 12.25 inches has almost zero allowance for seams. Make the square a smidge larger and trim it down to the precise final measurement.
Think about this for a moment - if we sew w/ 1/4 inch seams, a finished square that is 12.25 inches has almost zero allowance for seams. Make the square a smidge larger and trim it down to the precise final measurement.
07-29-2012, 12:54 PM
#19
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Piedmont Virginia in the Foothills of the Blue Ridge Mtns.
Posts: 8,562
Wow. This "tolerance" is one of the reasons I rarely do group swaps. To me, 12.5" means 12.5". I've been frustrated in the past having too narrow of a seam to feel confident in the seam integrity after several washings when I've received less than accurate blocks in a trade.
Jan in VA
Jan in VA
07-29-2012, 02:02 PM
#20
Super Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Cottondale, Alabama
Posts: 1,756
I'm glad I read this thread. I thought it was just me. I don't do swap anymore because I don't have the tolerance for close enough. If I need 12.5" then that's what I do. If it take a try or 2 then so be it. I was afraid I was being inlisted in the Quilt Police. I don't mean to judge others so if close enough is ok for them, it's their quilt.
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