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  • Ugh. I am so frustrated

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    Old 04-11-2011, 03:08 PM
      #51  
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    Take your applique and sew the seam allowance with a long stitch. I find the fabric turns under really nice. When done you can remove the basting.
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    Old 04-11-2011, 04:20 PM
      #52  
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    Originally Posted by familyfun
    I have watched every video I could find on hand applique. It looks easy on line. I have practiced and practiced but it always looks terrible.
    What is the best way to applique small pieces ??
    I dont like the look of raw edge with light weight fusible.
    And turn under doesnt seem to turn out right either. I have tried putting the paper on top and turning on the seem.. I have tried to outline the pattern on the material and turn under, I have tried to pin it on and turn under. Every technique I try looks bad.
    So I am coming to all my helpful friends on the board again.

    Last night I worked on tulips by the time I got the the third one they actually started to look like tulips. Practice, Practice, Practice
    Any Advice ?
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    Old 04-11-2011, 06:29 PM
      #53  
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    Originally Posted by familyfun
    I have watched every video I could find on hand applique. It looks easy on line. I have practiced and practiced but it always looks terrible.
    What is the best way to applique small pieces ??
    I dont like the look of raw edge with light weight fusible.
    And turn under doesnt seem to turn out right either. I have tried putting the paper on top and turning on the seem.. I have tried to outline the pattern on the material and turn under, I have tried to pin it on and turn under. Every technique I try looks bad.
    So I am coming to all my helpful friends on the board again.
    Any Advice ?
    I could just write me too, but that would not be helpful. I have had pretty good luck with a method I came up with in desperation.

    Buy light weight fusible interfacing. I trace my patterns on the 'fabric' then cut it out leaving at least 1/2 inch or more around the outside. I then lay the fusible side face down on the right side of the fashion fabric. Pin if you need to,(depends on shape and size for me) Keep the pins away from your lines. Stitch with shorter stitches all the way around your shape. Trim, leaving about 1/4 inch all the way around the outside of the shape. Make a small slit in the interfacing near the center, being careful not to cut the fashion fabric. Turn right side out. Use a point turner to smooth the edges. Press in place with hot iron (read interfacing directions). I hand stitch them down at this point. (Remember to use small invisible stitches)
    I carefully separate the base from the applique and clip the base, then carefully cut out the base fabric leaving about a 1/4 inch around the edges. It will still feel a little stiff, but the first washing will take care of that. I know, clear as mud, right? I hope this is helpful. Good luck.
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    Old 04-12-2011, 06:36 AM
      #54  
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    I have written several books about needle turn applique. Put your pattern onto the background block using either a light box or window. Pencil should be a mechanical one with "B" lead, which is softer. Line should be fine and only dark enough to just see. Don't scribble back and forth--a single, fine line!

    Cut out your patch leaving approimately 1/4 inch. Pin to the background block--actually, I prefer Roxanne's Glue Baste It, which does away with the need to pin.

    Use a single, #50 thread (regular thread) and a small knot. Turn the seam allowance in, bring the needle up under the patch and the needle out at the very edge of the patch. Take the first stitch into the background block DIRECTLY opposite where the thread comes out the patch. Move the point of the needle about 1/8 inch and bring it to the surface, catching the patch's edge again. Move the needle about 1/2 inch forward on the turn line and pull it back to the last stitch. The seam allowance will roll under right on the pencil line. You may (probably) will need to trim the seam allowance, but only trim as you go.

    Needle turn takes practice, but once learned, it will double your speed. No freezer paper, overlays or other devices to slow you down. In over 1000 students, I've had only four who caught on the first time.

    Remember, roll the seam allowances with the needle's tip, don't use your fingers.

    Sandy
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    Old 04-12-2011, 06:40 AM
      #55  
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    Opps, forgot to mention.

    Use thread that matches the patch, not the background block.

    If you can see the stitch, on the underside of the background block, slip the needle under a stitch and gently pull up. If a loop forms, you are not pulling the thread tight enough. If the patch is puckered, the thread is pulled too tight.

    Sandy
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    Old 04-12-2011, 12:05 PM
      #56  
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    The best method I have ever seen was a Dutch Doll pattern. My friens sewed stitch witchery or something light, on the top of the patched piece, Turn over a cut a small opening in the stitch witchery . Now turn it all inside out and press. Her work was so perfect and I have never seen any turn out so smoothly.
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    Old 04-12-2011, 12:38 PM
      #57  
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    [quote=cctx.]
    Originally Posted by familyfun
    I have watched every video I could find on hand applique. It looks easy on line. I have practiced and practiced but it always looks terrible.
    What is the best way to applique small pieces ??
    I dont like the look of raw edge with light weight fusible.
    And turn under doesnt seem to turn out right either. I have tried putting the paper on top and turning on the seem.. I have tried to outline the pattern on the material and turn under, I have tried to pin it on and turn under. Every technique I try looks bad.
    So I am coming to all my helpful friends on the board again.
    Any Advice ?
    Have you tried Reverse Applique?
    Look at my applique photo here, it's all done using Reverse Applique.
    Draw your shapes on the fabric first, then do a fat cut out inside your drawn shapes and cut little slits all the way to the drawn line of your fabric, then add your fabric from the bottom, not the top, (that's why it's called Reverse Applique).....,


    Wow that looks great....I will have to check into this... :)
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    Old 04-12-2011, 01:18 PM
      #58  
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    Wow so much advice and so many techniques.. Thank you all so much for posting.. now I will go back.. try several and practice, practice practice.

    thanks again
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    Old 04-12-2011, 01:19 PM
      #59  
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    LOL... when I did the Now and Forever, and ever, and ever...which I still haven't bound...I started with Beth's method...realized I had 292 leaves, and that didn't count the sweet pea leaves & hips...ugh...those were done fusible. The sweet peas and roses, I ended up using fusible interfacing...then I laid the pieces onto a pressing sheet, arranging not quite like the pattern and hit em with the iron...fused them so I could lay them on the quilt, pin and use the machine to sew them on...I used invisible thread (which is anything but)...I did a lot of it while waiting for a broken ankle to heal...so when I was having pain...not everything got done as it should...but after a year of downloading the bom designs, and a year of assembly and quilting on my longarm...all I need is the binding.
    Not perfect..but you know...as Eleanor Burns said...if a knight in shining armour gallops by on his white horse, and he does not see the flaws...then the quilt is perfect! My N &F is perfect under those standards!

    Now and Forever - and never again!
    [ATTACH=CONFIG]183327[/ATTACH]
    Attached Thumbnails attachment-183321.jpe  
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    Old 04-12-2011, 01:38 PM
      #60  
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    Have you tried Pearl Peiera's method using freezer paper and starch to prep the pieces? It is my favorite method.
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