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  • What kind of tracing pen/pencil to use with a light box?

  • What kind of tracing pen/pencil to use with a light box?

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    Old 10-14-2018, 07:06 AM
      #11  
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    Originally Posted by institches33
    Please see what was posted concerning Frixion pens on this site. I did baby quilts using the pens and when the quilts were put in the car during an Ohio winter all the marks reappeared. They don't wash out. Caution!
    Thank you for letting me know. I definitely want the lines to wash out so I guess Frixion is out.
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    Old 10-14-2018, 07:20 AM
      #12  
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    Another question on washable markers or water soluble markers - does it make a difference if the fabric is not washed for quite a while after marking the fabric? Most likely from the time my first square is marked to the time the quilt is put together and ready to wash will be months. Does this give the maker time to "set" and therefore harder to wash out?
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    Old 10-14-2018, 08:34 AM
      #13  
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    I do not use Frixion pens for marking quilting! Since you are embroidering OVER Frixion pen marks, it doesn’t really matter if they iron off or come back with the cold.
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    Old 10-14-2018, 02:25 PM
      #14  
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    [QUOTE=Aurora;8142978]
    Originally Posted by Murphy224
    When I did redwork , bluework, or blackwork embroidery, I used the Sakura Pigma Micron pens 01 size using the color to match the thread I was going to use, red, blue, black. These pens mark with an extremely fine line and are acid free and archival safe. So washing out was not an issue with me. The lines also stay on and do not rub off while you are working.
    Love the kit and if I was still able to do hand embroidery, would jump on that one.

    This is what I use, but a .05 in brown. I usually use a single thread and the tracing is totally covered. Hobby Lobby sells Pigma pens in packages of several colors.
    I also use .05 pigma pens to trace embroidery projects. I like to do Crabapple Hill designs and try to have one on hand to work on while waiting for appointments or in the evenings. So have followed their instructions and they recommend the pigma pens. I like a fine line to embroider over so no worries about the tracing showing. Usually use brown, but did use red for a "redwork" pattern, although with a fine line it doesn't really matter. It is not the same as marking a quilt for quilting and would think the Crayola lines would be too thick for embroidery, as would some of the others mentioned. I have used them for marking a quilt and they are good for that. What ever you choose, I hope you enjoy the embroidery work as much as I do. Have fun!
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    Old 10-14-2018, 02:37 PM
      #15  
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    I use my Bohn ceramic mechanical pencil. It contains 3 different colored ( leads- they are ceramic) white, pink and green. I can switch colors easily. They mark very smoothly- I very nice, fine, clear to see line
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    Old 10-14-2018, 02:48 PM
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    I made the very pattern/table topper you are attempting:
    Primitive Christmas UFO Quilt Finished

    and I used a frixtion pen because they make a thin thin line. The lines never came back (if they do I wont see them because I stitched over the lines.)

    ps. I used her kit fabric with 3 shades of primitive muslin. It was nice but barely enough to make the pattern. (good thing I laid out the whole pattern before cutting or I would have come up short!) I seem to remember one piece ended up 1/2" or 1/4" too small to fit on the fabric she sent.

    Last edited by Jane Quilter; 10-14-2018 at 02:53 PM.
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    Old 10-14-2018, 05:12 PM
      #17  
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    I agree with ckcowl! I love using my Bohin ceramic chalk mechanical pencil for marking fabric. I did notice that this pencil and various "leads" can be found in different sizes - I use the 'extra fine' 0.9mm size. It is very easy to use to mark either stencils, rulers or for freehand - reliable & produces a fine line that is easy to see. Uses refillable fine ceramic chalk "lead" and there are different colors for your different projects - I have white, yellow and grey. The pencil has a white eraser on the top (can get refills) that easily remove the markings. I have also used a "white" regular school eraser to remove markings. A slightly damp cloth will also help remove markings.

    I am not affiliated with this company - I just truly like using this pencil to mark designs. For me it has reduced lots of frustration that I've had with other marking pencils or pens/markers and I have tried quite a few different brands and types.

    Last edited by costumegirl; 10-14-2018 at 05:21 PM.
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    Old 10-15-2018, 05:36 AM
      #18  
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    I would keep away from those blue pens, I've heard people have problems with them. I just took a class this weekend from Connie Sue Haight from Apple Blossom Quilts and she said the best way to copy a design onto a piece of fabric is to use the pigma pens with a really, really fine tip. I have used the jelly pens in the color that I am embroidering and that works too. I also sometimes use a mechnical pencil. Keep away from the chalk, its messy, not sharp, and it does not hold the designs well, they tend to brush away.
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    Old 10-15-2018, 08:39 AM
      #19  
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    A note on the Frixion pens: it says right on the package NOT for use on fabric. Aside from reappearing in the cold, what will happen years from now? Will the marks (even if they don't show now) degrade the fabric over time? If the manufacturer says not for use on fabric, then why risk it?

    Aunt Martha's makes an embroidery transfer pencil. It is available at JAF and Walmart and is cheap (under $5 for a 2 pack). It is soft enough that you can trace directly on the fabric using your light board. This is what I use for pattern transfers for embroidery.

    Hope this helps.
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    Old 10-16-2018, 05:00 PM
      #20  
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    Originally Posted by Jane Quilter
    I made the very pattern/table topper you are attempting:
    Primitive Christmas UFO Quilt Finished

    and I used a frixtion pen because they make a thin thin line. The lines never came back (if they do I wont see them because I stitched over the lines.)

    ps. I used her kit fabric with 3 shades of primitive muslin. It was nice but barely enough to make the pattern. (good thing I laid out the whole pattern before cutting or I would have come up short!) I seem to remember one piece ended up 1/2" or 1/4" too small to fit on the fabric she sent.
    Thank you so much for sharing your pictures. I love how yours turned out, it's beautiful and looks so cozy! My kit came with all of the fabric precut, so I think I'll be okay as far as size, but it makes it difficult trying to fit it in to an embroidery hoop because there isn't enough overhang so I'll probably sew the blocks together before doing the embroidery.
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