What needle to so satin stitch?
#1
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I am delving into the world of applique (In a small way...) and wonder what needle is best for doing satin stitch?
Also, any hints and tips to do with using the satin stitch, or whatever stitch you prefer?
Thanks, Watson
Also, any hints and tips to do with using the satin stitch, or whatever stitch you prefer?
Thanks, Watson
#2
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Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 41,521
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I use the thinest needle and thread that my machine likes. Since the needle is making a ton of holes in the background fabric, I like them to be as tiny as possible. I use a stabilizer behind my background fabric to prevent tunneling and so the background fabric doesn't get all wrinkly. If you are layering pieces, do the satin stitching on the pieces that are behind others first. I like to leave my thread ends long so I can bring them to the back of the background fabric and knot them before trimming. Watch a video on going around corners and curves to see which side of the zig zag you need to be on with your needle to reposition the background fabric so you don't get any gaps. If you have needle down function, it really helps.
#4
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Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Duluth/ Superior, WI
Posts: 1,038
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Use a finer needle (11 or 12) and thinner thread. I also use bottom line in my bobbin so there is not so much buildup on the back of the piece, but that is a personal preference. Many people like to use the same top & bottom thread, do some samples so you can figure out what works for you. Use a stabilizer as that helps to keep everything nice and flat. I do run my machine a bit slower to keep all the stitches consistent. Satin stitch, blanket stitch, straight stitch (raw edge), blind hem stitch are a few that are good to use. I make a sample of what will be stitched out on a piece, mark my machine settings right on the fabric and keep for a reference.
Brenda
Brenda
#6
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Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Illinois
Posts: 2,140
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I've used Pellon 360 tear away stabilizer in the past, but I keep hearing such wonderful things about Sulky Solvy that I might try that next time. I usually never use poly thread but this is the one exception. I base my needle size on the recommendation for whatever thread I buy, but if there are multiple sizes recommended, I go with the smallest & buy a Microtex needle.
I make my applique as units. So I would apply all the fusible (windowing it) and then press between parchment paper. If an edge is going to be encapsulated inside the unit, I don't stitch it. Once I have my unit prepared, I peel it off the parchment paper, fuse it to my background, put the tear away stabilizer on underneath the background fabric & then get to stitching. I completely agree about going slow & usually with my machine I need to go back over it a second time so there aren't any gaps in my stitching. When I'm happy, I peel off the stabilizer & move on to the next one.
Note: don't apply the fusible too far in advance because it will stiffen & be more difficult to stitch through. If this happens, you can warm it up a bit with the iron but that only works so many times.
Personally, I prefer the "lighter" look of buttonhole stitching or sometimes even a cute decorative stitch. With those you don't need a stabilizer & don't need to go over it a second time. I also always use cotton thread with those. If I don't want it super noticeable, I'll pick an Aurifil 50/2 in a matching color with a 10/70 Microtex needle. If I want to feature the applique stitching, I'll pick an Aurifil 28/2 or sometimes even hand stitch with Aurifloss in a coordinating color. With the heavier weight threads, I use a 12/80 Microtex machine needle or stitch by hand with a John James Gold'n Glide Milliners size 10.
Good luck! Be sure to post photos when you're done. And welcome to the applique community. I'm sure once you try it you will be completely addicted like the rest of us.
I make my applique as units. So I would apply all the fusible (windowing it) and then press between parchment paper. If an edge is going to be encapsulated inside the unit, I don't stitch it. Once I have my unit prepared, I peel it off the parchment paper, fuse it to my background, put the tear away stabilizer on underneath the background fabric & then get to stitching. I completely agree about going slow & usually with my machine I need to go back over it a second time so there aren't any gaps in my stitching. When I'm happy, I peel off the stabilizer & move on to the next one.
Note: don't apply the fusible too far in advance because it will stiffen & be more difficult to stitch through. If this happens, you can warm it up a bit with the iron but that only works so many times.
Personally, I prefer the "lighter" look of buttonhole stitching or sometimes even a cute decorative stitch. With those you don't need a stabilizer & don't need to go over it a second time. I also always use cotton thread with those. If I don't want it super noticeable, I'll pick an Aurifil 50/2 in a matching color with a 10/70 Microtex needle. If I want to feature the applique stitching, I'll pick an Aurifil 28/2 or sometimes even hand stitch with Aurifloss in a coordinating color. With the heavier weight threads, I use a 12/80 Microtex machine needle or stitch by hand with a John James Gold'n Glide Milliners size 10.
Good luck! Be sure to post photos when you're done. And welcome to the applique community. I'm sure once you try it you will be completely addicted like the rest of us.
#7
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Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Northern Michigan
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The thread choice determines the needle size. If the needle is too small for the thread you are using the thread will fray and break a lot. So, first you need to choose the thread you plan to use then choose the correct needle for that thread.
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