What is wrong!
10-18-2013, 06:08 AM
#21
Power Poster
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Front row
Posts: 14,646
Here is a link to a basic clapper. I prefer the clapper with handle. June Tailor use to sell one but discontinued it. I heard it was coming back on the market for quilters now that most know what an excellent job it does for seams. The wood absorbs the heat fast and any moisture if using steam. If you see one at a thrift store or yard sale, grab it. The professional tailor clapper is very expensive.
http://www.nancysnotions.com/product/tailors+clapper.do
http://www.nancysnotions.com/product/tailors+clapper.do
10-18-2013, 06:11 AM
#22
Super Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 2,876
Go back and measure each seam, to see what's causing the problem. If all else fails, I'd just make the pinwheel section a tad bigger, then trim it down to size.
Another reason for the problem, may be your HST seams. Some patterns assume you'll use a scant 1/4" there. I never did like the scant 1/4" practice, as IMO the bias seams need more stability, not less. However, many people seem to think scant seams are the way to go.
Another reason for the problem, may be your HST seams. Some patterns assume you'll use a scant 1/4" there. I never did like the scant 1/4" practice, as IMO the bias seams need more stability, not less. However, many people seem to think scant seams are the way to go.
LOL, I have always assumed the "scant" 1/4 inch seams are because they didn't do it right in the first place, not because of me. I have never heard of anything so silly in my life than when I started quilting and learned about "scant".
10-18-2013, 06:42 AM
#23
Super Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Clay Springs AZ
Posts: 3,229
Took awhile but after several blocks got my machine needle set so my blocks come out the right size.
Try a simple three strip test with 2 1/2 in strips, to see if the middle strip finishes at 2 in.
Had to adjust my needle to 2.3 on my Viking.
I bought a half in ruler also for marking blocks for HST.
Try a simple three strip test with 2 1/2 in strips, to see if the middle strip finishes at 2 in.
Had to adjust my needle to 2.3 on my Viking.
I bought a half in ruler also for marking blocks for HST.
10-18-2013, 06:56 AM
#24
Power Poster
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Front row
Posts: 14,646
Scant 1/4" seams are necessary for those that use thicker thread. Thick thread fills out the scant to make a full 1/4". 50 wt 3 ply and 40 wt thread was the standard for piecing years ago. Sewers learned to use the scant seam to get accurate seam width. Most haven't changed threads to the thinner ones available now.
10-18-2013, 07:46 AM
#25
Super Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Colorado
Posts: 2,254
Just because the manufacturer says it is a 1/4" doesn't mean it isn't a tad off and as we all know that can really make a difference when pieces absolutely have to match up. I use the tape method and it works for me very well. The "scant" 1/4" seam drives me bonkers, exactly what is a "Scant?" Anyway I'm about to embark on a project that specifically states use a "scant 1/4" seam" and that if you don't the pattern won't work. Well that should make me put the pattern away, but I love a challenge and it is a gorgeous pattern so break out the chocolate and let the games begin.
10-18-2013, 08:56 AM
#26
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Fingerlakes area, NYS
Posts: 225
I had the same problem of blocks not being the right size when I first started sewing 1/4" seams.
After many classes with great instructors and knowing my fabric is cut to size I learned:
1. Use thin thread in top and bobbin
2. Press my seams open or tug and press the seam to one side. Keep iron in place longer for it to do it's job.
3. Twirl intersecting seams open
4. Use a longer stitch length 2.5 and backstitch at beginning and ending.
5. Keep index finger against the left side of the foot when coming to the end of the seam. This keeps the seam from veering right.
6. Sew slow, slow enough to count each stitch until you can tell by sight the seam is perfect.
7. Hard to match seams, glue baste them then sew.
One thing I learned that has held true and it's not known by most is if you are cutting strips of fabric you have to true up the edge after the amount of cuts the width of the strip. Example: if you are cutting five strips at 2 1/2 " you have to true up the edge after cutting 3 (rounded up) strips. Pieces cut 5 inches you have to true up the fabric edge after 5 cuts and so on. This is where a lot of frustration comes from, fabric being cut just a tad off even thought it looks fine.
One thing I forgot. I guess because it has become second nature to me now. I use a clapper to flatten all my seams after pressing.
After many classes with great instructors and knowing my fabric is cut to size I learned:
1. Use thin thread in top and bobbin
2. Press my seams open or tug and press the seam to one side. Keep iron in place longer for it to do it's job.
3. Twirl intersecting seams open
4. Use a longer stitch length 2.5 and backstitch at beginning and ending.
5. Keep index finger against the left side of the foot when coming to the end of the seam. This keeps the seam from veering right.
6. Sew slow, slow enough to count each stitch until you can tell by sight the seam is perfect.
7. Hard to match seams, glue baste them then sew.
One thing I learned that has held true and it's not known by most is if you are cutting strips of fabric you have to true up the edge after the amount of cuts the width of the strip. Example: if you are cutting five strips at 2 1/2 " you have to true up the edge after cutting 3 (rounded up) strips. Pieces cut 5 inches you have to true up the fabric edge after 5 cuts and so on. This is where a lot of frustration comes from, fabric being cut just a tad off even thought it looks fine.
One thing I forgot. I guess because it has become second nature to me now. I use a clapper to flatten all my seams after pressing.
10-18-2013, 07:14 PM
#28
Super Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Saratoga, Arkansas
Posts: 1,909
I have started using 60 wt Aurifil or if I'm using 50 wt. I press my seams open. That way I can use a regular 1/4". "Scant" means something different each time depending on thread and fabric thickness. Adjusting the needle can take a while to get the right combination. I've sewn garments for years and had no fear about an open seam not being strong. If an open seam can hold clothes together through wearings and washings, I think it will hold a quilt together. Also they are easier to hand quilt and many award winning quilters use open seams.
10-19-2013, 03:31 AM
#29
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Ohio
Posts: 952
I have created a piece of heavy cardboard with an exact 1/4" edge on it and since I have several machines (including a couple that think "they" want to reset the needle every time I turn them on). I put a piece of 1/4" painter's tape (which actually is a scant 1/4") on the edge and measure from the line on my machine to the to the actual needle point every time and on every machine before I start sewing. My faithful 1950's 301 and Featherweight are always right on the money every time , the newer ones always have to have the needle reset every time I turn them on. Maybe this will help. After having to redo a number of strips because the needle was off just a tad, I came up with this. I can put the needle down slowly exactly to the correct setting on my "needle setting creation".
10-19-2013, 10:19 AM
#30
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Kansas
Posts: 102
Have you tried
What is wrong!!!! I am trying to tweak my tape line to make it right because my 1/4 guide foot just ain't cutting it.
Using starch? I don't cut anything now unless I have starched it (regular spray or newer non-flaking kinds). Especially when making triangle anything. Also I have quit using steam until the block is complete, I found that steam will "let" me distort the block. Good luck!
Barb in Kansas
Using starch? I don't cut anything now unless I have starched it (regular spray or newer non-flaking kinds). Especially when making triangle anything. Also I have quit using steam until the block is complete, I found that steam will "let" me distort the block. Good luck!
Barb in Kansas
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