What Are Your Techniques For A Perfect Binding?
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 512
I hand stitch the binding if it's a quilt that I need more time with and it's a labor of love! I did use the hand method for several years until I decided that the individual who was receiving the quilt (considering the investment of time, money, etc.) would know the difference. I've only entered one quilt show and probably will never enter another. My goal is to quilt for the enjoyment I receive, etc., not to be judged. I'm my own worse/best judge. My hat is off to those who do enter the shows.
#13
I, too, use the Sharon Schamber method and highly recommend her tutorial on youtube. My corners, etc have been great since following along with her instructions. It does take alot longer, but since binding does seem to be an important factor I think well worth it.
#14
Super Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: England Alton Towers
Posts: 6,673
I have always cut binding at 2.5 and have used jelly roll stripes on small table runners. Could you tell me how far you machine binding on in first place. I was taught 1/4 inch then told it was definately 3/4inch. Help?
#15
Super Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: West Texas
Posts: 2,073
You can choose the width of binding you prefer and decide if you want an equal width on the front and back. However, I think that most would agree that the batting should "fill" the binding completely to the fold.
#16
I was just reading another thread about how a quilt is judged for a show and everyone was talking about a perfect, full binding as being one of the main criteria for a winning quilt. That got me thinking...what do you do to make your binding as best as it can be for a show? Tips? Tricks? Stitching techniques? On the bias? Mitered corners? etc.
#17
I once knew a lady, who had quilted since she was a teenager, who was almost 90 years old, who would add Batting strips, or filler of some kind to her binding. She said if the binding was "filled" completely, it not only looked better, but most of all it would not wear out so fast. I have noticed on some old quilts I have, that are washed pretty frequently, the binding does wear out first. I don't know why she didn't just take a bigger seam to fill her binding, but maybe it would alter the size of the squares etc next to the binding?
#18
I have found in my years of quilting that a perfect binding is totally impossible. I do the very best that I can, pull threads if absolutely necessary and say, I did my best and only God is perfect. Edie
#19
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 976
Just remember you don't need a lot of glue. I drag a pin through a puddle of glue and just lay down tiny well dispersed dots, then fold down and iron.
#20
I use a 2 1/2 inch strip folded in half for my binding. Before I apply the binding I stitch around the edge of the quilt very close to the edge of the quilt top. I then cut off any excess batting and backing. I use a walking foot and use the edge of the walking foot as my guide line which give me a 3/8" seam. I join all the binding pieces together using a miter join. I sew the binding on the front of the quilt stopping 3/8" from each corner, fold the binding like you do for a miter. The trick to a good miter corner on the binding is to stop the distance of your seam allowance. If you are using a 1/4" seam allowance you would then stop 1/4" away. I join the two ends of the binding again using a miter. There are several ways to do this so choose the one easiest for you. I use a thin stream of glue along the top edge of the back and roll my binding over. I either secure it with some pins until the glue dries or iron it to dry the glue. I don't like the folded edge of my binding to be ironed so avoid that. By not ironing this edge it is easier to hide my stitches when I hand sew the binding onto the back. The binding on the front is narrower than the binding on the back. I use a very small (thin) needle to hand sew the binding on the back and you can't even see the stitches.
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