When you sew your binding on...
#11
I cut mine 2 1/2" wide. And sew with a "wide 1/4" seam". That means (to me) that rather than a scant seam, I go about the same distance the other way so I have slightly more than 1/4" seam in the end. probalby almost 3/8, now that I think about my trimming activity (I attach binding, then trim).
#12
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Join Date: Mar 2009
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I trim my sandwich after the binding has been attached to the sides. Usually, I leave a bit of extra batting past the quilt top so my binding is nice and full. The seam allowance is more than 1/4 - whatever the distance to my walking foot is - I never measured.
#14
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Michigan
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Depending on the size of the quilt I have sewn it on the front with a 1/4" seam then pulled to back. That way if I need to do any fudging at all it is on the back. I either use glue, pins or clips to hold binding in place and then stitch on the top in the ditch.....when done go to back and do some hand work if necessary to catch anything that was not caught....... I would also strongly suggest doing a couple samples on what IS COMFORTABLE for you to handle....
Again there are not any Quilt Police,......1/4" or 3/8" front or back....what ever works for you and this quilt...the next one could be totally different...
Again there are not any Quilt Police,......1/4" or 3/8" front or back....what ever works for you and this quilt...the next one could be totally different...
#15
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Western Wisconsin
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How wide your ideal seam allowance would be depends on how wide you cut your binding strips and how thick your batting is. As a rule-of-thumb, when I cut 2.5" strips I sew a 3/8" seam on the binding. My typical batting is Hobbs 80/20. If you are using a very thin batting, you might want a larger seam allowance; if using a very thick batting, a narrower seam allowance.
Be aware that the size of the seam allowance affects the look of the finished binding. I would not sew more than a 3/8" wide seam allowance because anything wider than that makes the binding too wide for my taste. For show quilts, narrower bindings are preferred, which typically requires cutting 2-1/4" strips and using a 1/4" seam allowance.
Be aware that the size of the seam allowance affects the look of the finished binding. I would not sew more than a 3/8" wide seam allowance because anything wider than that makes the binding too wide for my taste. For show quilts, narrower bindings are preferred, which typically requires cutting 2-1/4" strips and using a 1/4" seam allowance.
#16
I recently cut mu binding strips 2-1/2" wide, fold in half, press and sew on the front using 3/8" seam and hand stitch to the back. Turns out perfect. I like the hand sewn better. Good luck, some on here machine sew it.
#17
Copy & pasted this from an e-mail I received today (Aboutquilting.com)
While We're Talking About Binding<Q></Q><CITE>© Janet Wickell</CITE>
One of my biggest binding pet peeves concerns the binding instructions that many quilting authors have traditionally written. I've cautioned quilters on this since I began writing quilting books in the 1990s, but still see incorrect instructions everywhere.
[h=3]The Real Deal[/h]When preparing to miter binding at the corner of a quilt, the point where you should stop and backstitch must be a distance equal to the finished width of the binding.
Nearly all patterns tell you to stop 1/4" away from the quilt's edge. That's correct if you are sewing a 1/4" finished width binding, and that width is a must if quilt blocks surround the outer edges of the quilt, since they have a built-in 1/4" seam. What if you have a border, where the width of binding is arbitrary? I've made lots of miniature quilts with 1/8" bindings, and larger quilts with 1/2" bindings. Try stopping 1/4" from the edge of those quilts and you'll end up with a messy (if not impossible to construct) mitered corner. Stop sewing at the point that matches your finished binding width and the miter will create itself, almost automatically.
While We're Talking About Binding<Q></Q><CITE>© Janet Wickell</CITE>
One of my biggest binding pet peeves concerns the binding instructions that many quilting authors have traditionally written. I've cautioned quilters on this since I began writing quilting books in the 1990s, but still see incorrect instructions everywhere.
[h=3]The Real Deal[/h]When preparing to miter binding at the corner of a quilt, the point where you should stop and backstitch must be a distance equal to the finished width of the binding.
Nearly all patterns tell you to stop 1/4" away from the quilt's edge. That's correct if you are sewing a 1/4" finished width binding, and that width is a must if quilt blocks surround the outer edges of the quilt, since they have a built-in 1/4" seam. What if you have a border, where the width of binding is arbitrary? I've made lots of miniature quilts with 1/8" bindings, and larger quilts with 1/2" bindings. Try stopping 1/4" from the edge of those quilts and you'll end up with a messy (if not impossible to construct) mitered corner. Stop sewing at the point that matches your finished binding width and the miter will create itself, almost automatically.
#18
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Western Wisconsin
Posts: 12,930
I believe Sharon Schamber demonstrates how to glue-baste binding in her Youtube tutorials:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4PE0Yq9iGlc
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u3vHI7rgZpw
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W--xgi4nux8
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4PE0Yq9iGlc
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u3vHI7rgZpw
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W--xgi4nux8
#20
Machine sewing to th front and then hand stitching to the back is the easiest method for me. On a big quilt, it takes about 45 minutes per side of the quilt to complete and looks really nice when done. I can watch television and bind and I find it very relaxing and one of my favorite parts of quilting.
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