Wonder Tape For Curves Question
07-20-2020, 10:03 AM
#1
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Location: Ontario, Canada
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Wonder Tape For Curves Question
This video was posted a couple of weeks ago in a discussion about curved piecing. It seemed like it worked great and I ordered the tape right away.
I tried this with a Drunkard's Path block and I can't get it to work. When I start at either end, I end up with a whole bunch of fabric left over in the centre of the block. When the lady in the video does it, it all lays down perfectly.
I thought maybe there was something wrong with the block, but I sewed it and it sews just right.
Can anyone tell me what I'm doing wrong with the tape? I'd really like this to work so I can audition the blocks for colour before I sew them.
The video is under "Curved Piecing - The Easy Way!" on Youtube
Watson
I tried this with a Drunkard's Path block and I can't get it to work. When I start at either end, I end up with a whole bunch of fabric left over in the centre of the block. When the lady in the video does it, it all lays down perfectly.
I thought maybe there was something wrong with the block, but I sewed it and it sews just right.
Can anyone tell me what I'm doing wrong with the tape? I'd really like this to work so I can audition the blocks for colour before I sew them.
The video is under "Curved Piecing - The Easy Way!" on Youtube
Watson
Last edited by Watson; 07-20-2020 at 10:06 AM. Reason: Not sure if we are allowed to link to Youtube
07-20-2020, 10:22 AM
#2
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Location: Southern USA
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I have all of Sara Miller's templates. They are wonderful. To use the tape the fabric has to be eased in place. Be sure the curve cut is not stretched by pressing or handling before easing. When I first saw her demo at a quit show I signed up for her template club. I was fascinated with the ease of using them. Not many seem to know about her or her quilts.
07-20-2020, 11:00 AM
#3
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Location: Greater Peoria, IL -- just moved!
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Cool video and tool/tape. With drunkard's path I think it my biggest problem is that the way I want to attach the two pieces isn't really the way they go. Sort of like when I put 60 degree triangles together, the points don't look right to me.
I haven't used wonder tape but a year or two ago I did a grandmother's fan in a similar way, but with a textural component using rickrack. I call it the "Eleanor Burns" method because I got it from her, but it is very similar in concept, that is using something so prevent pinning/help our curves.
The rick rack bit starts around minute 18.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ktzb2wMMwzc
I used it in my "Turkey Fan" (Thanksgiving themed) quilt. I really wanted the extra design/texture element for my turkeys.
https://www.quiltingboard.com/member...14-621653.html
I had no problems with either the smaller "pie" or the larger fan curves, but I chose to use a foundation method instead of piecing the arcs together. I've done fans and drunkard's path and similar projects before in old school ways -- but I think this sort of thing is the way I'll be going in the future. I think a little pinch press of the center line helps too.
I also think having actual heavy templates you can cut around, or paper patterns you pin and cut really helps all curved projects. I bought a set of templates for my fans even knowing it was probably the only time I would ever use them, but for that many unique blades I didn't want to be dealing with anything slightly off from use.
I haven't used wonder tape but a year or two ago I did a grandmother's fan in a similar way, but with a textural component using rickrack. I call it the "Eleanor Burns" method because I got it from her, but it is very similar in concept, that is using something so prevent pinning/help our curves.
The rick rack bit starts around minute 18.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ktzb2wMMwzc
I used it in my "Turkey Fan" (Thanksgiving themed) quilt. I really wanted the extra design/texture element for my turkeys.
https://www.quiltingboard.com/member...14-621653.html
I had no problems with either the smaller "pie" or the larger fan curves, but I chose to use a foundation method instead of piecing the arcs together. I've done fans and drunkard's path and similar projects before in old school ways -- but I think this sort of thing is the way I'll be going in the future. I think a little pinch press of the center line helps too.
I also think having actual heavy templates you can cut around, or paper patterns you pin and cut really helps all curved projects. I bought a set of templates for my fans even knowing it was probably the only time I would ever use them, but for that many unique blades I didn't want to be dealing with anything slightly off from use.
07-20-2020, 01:35 PM
#4
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The Drunkard's Path block is like setting in a sleeve when sewing clothes. After about 15 times of easing in the same sleeve you will have it in memory. LOL Thank goodness for a wonderful expert Home EC teacher in ninth grade.
07-20-2020, 05:22 PM
#5
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I'm an old school with curves. This lady and I do it the same way. I will admit that I overcut both pieces slightly, maybe 1/4" and square it up after sewing. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BLfc2UpucsA
07-20-2020, 05:42 PM
#6
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Location: Pacific NW
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Here's the video Watson is talking about, for those who want to look. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lwuv4oYXOqY
I agree with Onebyone. You have to ease the fabric in. In the video, if you watch her hands carefully, she's easing the fabric in the middle. She gets one corner set on the tape, then the other corner set, then she moves back to the center and sort of massages the piece that is too short so it stretches a bit to fit. Once you grasp how to ease in fullness and do a few practice blocks, you likely won't need the tape anymore.
I agree with Onebyone. You have to ease the fabric in. In the video, if you watch her hands carefully, she's easing the fabric in the middle. She gets one corner set on the tape, then the other corner set, then she moves back to the center and sort of massages the piece that is too short so it stretches a bit to fit. Once you grasp how to ease in fullness and do a few practice blocks, you likely won't need the tape anymore.
07-20-2020, 11:00 PM
#7
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Location: kansas
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Watson, I teach the DP in our guild's beginning classes (luck of the draw) so have learned how to do them--even while demonstrating (pressure!). Here's my best advice:
1. make sure that you cut the 2 pieces so that the corners are on the straight of grain.
2. the curves have to be cut so they are on the bias
3. don't use a bunch of pins! Seriously--one at each end (maybe 2 on the end if the non-curved part of end is wider)and one in the middle where you've finger pressed both pieces so that they match on the crease. There is a very good reason not to use more pins--when you stick in a lot of pins, you are unable to pull the fabric so that it lays down and you are able to sew without getting tucks.
4. it usually is best if you put the "crust" on the top as you stitch--"pie" on the bottom.
5. put the needle down in one end and take a couple of stitches, now you need to pull the top fabric so that it lines up with the bottom curve and slowly stitch to the middle pin. Stop with needle down and repeat the process and stitch to the end.
Once you get the process down you'll be able to do all sorts of curved blocks!
1. make sure that you cut the 2 pieces so that the corners are on the straight of grain.
2. the curves have to be cut so they are on the bias
3. don't use a bunch of pins! Seriously--one at each end (maybe 2 on the end if the non-curved part of end is wider)and one in the middle where you've finger pressed both pieces so that they match on the crease. There is a very good reason not to use more pins--when you stick in a lot of pins, you are unable to pull the fabric so that it lays down and you are able to sew without getting tucks.
4. it usually is best if you put the "crust" on the top as you stitch--"pie" on the bottom.
5. put the needle down in one end and take a couple of stitches, now you need to pull the top fabric so that it lines up with the bottom curve and slowly stitch to the middle pin. Stop with needle down and repeat the process and stitch to the end.
Once you get the process down you'll be able to do all sorts of curved blocks!
07-21-2020, 03:27 AM
#8
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Watson, I teach the DP in our guild's beginning classes (luck of the draw) so have learned how to do them--even while demonstrating (pressure!). Here's my best advice:
1. make sure that you cut the 2 pieces so that the corners are on the straight of grain.
2. the curves have to be cut so they are on the bias
3. don't use a bunch of pins! Seriously--one at each end (maybe 2 on the end if the non-curved part of end is wider)and one in the middle where you've finger pressed both pieces so that they match on the crease. There is a very good reason not to use more pins--when you stick in a lot of pins, you are unable to pull the fabric so that it lays down and you are able to sew without getting tucks.
4. it usually is best if you put the "crust" on the top as you stitch--"pie" on the bottom.
5. put the needle down in one end and take a couple of stitches, now you need to pull the top fabric so that it lines up with the bottom curve and slowly stitch to the middle pin. Stop with needle down and repeat the process and stitch to the end.
Once you get the process down you'll be able to do all sorts of curved blocks!
1. make sure that you cut the 2 pieces so that the corners are on the straight of grain.
2. the curves have to be cut so they are on the bias
3. don't use a bunch of pins! Seriously--one at each end (maybe 2 on the end if the non-curved part of end is wider)and one in the middle where you've finger pressed both pieces so that they match on the crease. There is a very good reason not to use more pins--when you stick in a lot of pins, you are unable to pull the fabric so that it lays down and you are able to sew without getting tucks.
4. it usually is best if you put the "crust" on the top as you stitch--"pie" on the bottom.
5. put the needle down in one end and take a couple of stitches, now you need to pull the top fabric so that it lines up with the bottom curve and slowly stitch to the middle pin. Stop with needle down and repeat the process and stitch to the end.
Once you get the process down you'll be able to do all sorts of curved blocks!
07-21-2020, 03:27 AM
#9
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Join Date: May 2017
Location: Sunny Florida
Posts: 4,427
Here is another helpful video that I have used for curves.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HTOGt4cRdJE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HTOGt4cRdJE
07-21-2020, 03:37 AM
#10
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Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: Corpus Christi, Texas
Posts: 1,940
The kaleidoscope quilts that I sew have hundreds of curved seams. Don't know about Wonder Tape.
I clip the "crust" piece: fold in half-clip there--then once on each half (3 slits) Needless to say, don't clip past SA.
Then, I fold the "pie" to find center. Line that up with the middle slit on the crust piece. Pin it.
After that, pin each end.
When I stitch, the piece is not flat. I sort of pull it upward and stitch around the curve.
I clip the "crust" piece: fold in half-clip there--then once on each half (3 slits) Needless to say, don't clip past SA.
Then, I fold the "pie" to find center. Line that up with the middle slit on the crust piece. Pin it.
After that, pin each end.
When I stitch, the piece is not flat. I sort of pull it upward and stitch around the curve.
