Your Best Piecing Tips for Accuracy
10-23-2015, 08:00 AM
#34
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: South Alabama
Posts: 711
Gyleen's "butterfly seams" method was life changing for me when it comes to Y seams. I was in the "avoid at all costs" camp until I tried her method. (The only way I could get them right before was by hand sewing the seams.) Now I can do perfectly matched Y seams on the sewing machine. Yay!!!
10-23-2015, 10:26 AM
#36
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 390
I recently pieced a quilt with many small pieces and a gazillion points to match. I haven't learned how to paper piece. When I learn, I am sure I will wish I had learned sooner. Anyway, I pieced these pieces accurately by pencil marking each seam a scant 1/4" clear to the edge of the fabric so that there was a crossing point at each corner. The marking takes time, But saved frustration when the points matched as I assembled the quilt.
10-23-2015, 10:40 AM
#37
Power Poster
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 15,639
Am I the only one who likes Y seams? They do not phase me one bit. Must be the drafter in me.
I found that I do much better on the 1/4" seams since I bought a 1/4" foot for my machine. I had one with the fabric guide but that created oversized seam allowances. Now I take care to get the foot aligned properly and I get good seams every time.
When I run out of this particular thread, I am going to switch to 60 weight for the bobbin. Every little bit helps to decrease the seam bulk.
I also had to make friends with my rulers. The Olfa (black and yellow) take a bit more attention to get the cutting line aligned properly. It took me a while to train my eyes to look at the gaps between the yellow lines and make sure the skinny black line was spot-on.
When I cut multiples of a size, I cut my strips at a multiple of that measurement. Example: If I plan to cut 2 1/2" strips and I need 5, I cut the first cut at 12 1/2" then subcut at 10, 7 1/2, 5, and 2 1/2" That way I will not experience scope creep by adding just a little bit on every cut.
I found that I do much better on the 1/4" seams since I bought a 1/4" foot for my machine. I had one with the fabric guide but that created oversized seam allowances. Now I take care to get the foot aligned properly and I get good seams every time.
When I run out of this particular thread, I am going to switch to 60 weight for the bobbin. Every little bit helps to decrease the seam bulk.
I also had to make friends with my rulers. The Olfa (black and yellow) take a bit more attention to get the cutting line aligned properly. It took me a while to train my eyes to look at the gaps between the yellow lines and make sure the skinny black line was spot-on.
When I cut multiples of a size, I cut my strips at a multiple of that measurement. Example: If I plan to cut 2 1/2" strips and I need 5, I cut the first cut at 12 1/2" then subcut at 10, 7 1/2, 5, and 2 1/2" That way I will not experience scope creep by adding just a little bit on every cut.
10-23-2015, 04:26 PM
#38
Super Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: North Fork Ca
Posts: 8,234
I am sure that I over starch and over press, but in the long run when I am happy with the results, its keeps me doing it again. Since learning the recipe for Best Press, it isn't all that expensive and I love the finish I can get with it. Sure makes bias edges easier to control
10-24-2015, 04:20 AM
#39
Super Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: NE Ohio
Posts: 1,384
Y seams not withstanding . . .i used to struggle getting 1/4" seams . . .tried various feet, etc. then, an experienced piecer pointed out, it could be my thread and machine needle. Sure enough, my needle was too large . . .it displaced the threads in the cotton weave . . .and my thread, too thick, was keeping the cotton weave displaced by filling the gap the needle made.
I switched to Schmetz Microtex 70 needles and 50wt Aurifil thread and my seams have been spot on since.
I switched to Schmetz Microtex 70 needles and 50wt Aurifil thread and my seams have been spot on since.
I really like Kaye Wood's tips and techniques. Here she demonstrates her method of doing a Y seam. I used this making a quilt that had tons of Y seams in it and it worked like a charm.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XLkHfcuNzCA
She has lots of other tips on being accurate as well.
To get my points to be pointy in a pattern (like in triangles, stars etc) I put a pin through the point and then through the fabric I'm sewing it to. Most of the time it is 1/4" but not always as often there is just enough give in fabric to be a little off at that intersection. I make a mark on my fabric that I'm sewing the point to with a Frixon pen where the pin comes through and that is my seam guide when I go to sew my pieces together. Perfect points every time. Even if the seam on the backside isn't perfect who will notice.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XLkHfcuNzCA
She has lots of other tips on being accurate as well.
To get my points to be pointy in a pattern (like in triangles, stars etc) I put a pin through the point and then through the fabric I'm sewing it to. Most of the time it is 1/4" but not always as often there is just enough give in fabric to be a little off at that intersection. I make a mark on my fabric that I'm sewing the point to with a Frixon pen where the pin comes through and that is my seam guide when I go to sew my pieces together. Perfect points every time. Even if the seam on the backside isn't perfect who will notice.
Thanks so much for all of the great advice! You folks are the BEST!
07-17-2016, 05:28 PM
#40
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 817
I too enjoy the "no tear" freezer paper piecing method. Worked my Picasso Sunset quilt (NY Beauty type blocks) using this method. Introduced it to my sister (new quilter) and she mastered it quickly.
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