Hand Quilting - yikes
#13
#16
Take a pencil, and lightly draw yourself some straight lines. As your hand/arm moves over the fabric, the pencil will wear away. I don't know how much you've done, but changing your thread to a color that blends in better won't draw your eye to it - natural/ off white color???
And get yourself a leather thimble - it will protect your finger til you get the hang of it. Til then, hang in there - it really does get better! We all promise that!
And get yourself a leather thimble - it will protect your finger til you get the hang of it. Til then, hang in there - it really does get better! We all promise that!
#17
Power Poster
Join Date: May 2008
Location: MN
Posts: 24,660
. . . I use 1/4" painters tape and place it right next to the seam and quilt right next to the tape. I am then far enough away from where I pressed my seam allowances and I have nice straight lines of quilting that is evenly spaced away from the seam.
You can also measure with your cutting ruler and draw a chalk line or use a sliver of white soap on your dark colors.
. . . I use a lap hoop so I can turn the quilt in the direction that is easiest for me. . . .
What size needle are you using? The smaller the needle (which means a higher number, a size 11 is much smaller than a size 8 with needles), the smaller the stitches but it takes practice and experience to feel comfortable with size 10 or smaller.
Are you using any kind of hoop or frame? How tight is the quilt in it? You want it kind of loose so the fabric has give when you get into the rocking motion of the needle.
You can also measure with your cutting ruler and draw a chalk line or use a sliver of white soap on your dark colors.
. . . I use a lap hoop so I can turn the quilt in the direction that is easiest for me. . . .
What size needle are you using? The smaller the needle (which means a higher number, a size 11 is much smaller than a size 8 with needles), the smaller the stitches but it takes practice and experience to feel comfortable with size 10 or smaller.
Are you using any kind of hoop or frame? How tight is the quilt in it? You want it kind of loose so the fabric has give when you get into the rocking motion of the needle.
I think your project would look better - even with uneven stitches - if you used the 1/4 inch masking/painting tape to guide your stitching lines. I had better luck using short lengths of tape than trying to apply a long strip. Also, the tape can be used several times. Or mark them lightly with another method.
I don't like the disappearing ink ones - I think they do strange things to the fabrics years later. Maybe they've improved recently.
If you are using a hoop or frame - the fabric has to bend/sag at least an inch in a small hoop - more in a larger hoop. At one time, I thought it was supposed to be tight as a drum. NOT!
#18
What size needle are you using? The smaller the needle (which means a higher number, a size 11 is much smaller than a size 8 with needles), the smaller the stitches but it takes practice and experience to feel comfortable with size 10 or smaller.
Are you using any kind of hoop or frame? How tight is the quilt in it? You want it kind of loose so the fabric has give when you get into the rocking motion of the needle.
Are you using any kind of hoop or frame? How tight is the quilt in it? You want it kind of loose so the fabric has give when you get into the rocking motion of the needle.
#19
Power Poster
Join Date: May 2008
Location: MN
Posts: 24,660
A size 9 is still a small needle - and it is comparatively easy to thread.
I've found some brands of needles are easier to thread than others - sorry - I don't remember which ones they were now - I think they had gold eyes.
I've found some brands of needles are easier to thread than others - sorry - I don't remember which ones they were now - I think they had gold eyes.
#20
Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: sticks
Posts: 72
For your first try, it is a miracle of consistency! Be kind to yourself. You are doing fine!
My first recommendation is to match the thread to your fabrics until you get more control. Then, it will look better on the front and eventually on the back.
I use thimbles on both hands - middle fingers-- and use a small quilting frame to give the fabric "bounce."
My stitches are 10-12 per inch (counting top and bottom.)
First control stitch angle -always straight -and distance from edge. (allow for seam allowances underneath.) Mark with ruler and washable pen/pencil if needed.
Once you control the stitch angle and distance, work on the consistent length. Even if it is half an inch long, make it always an half an inch in that quilt. Take it out and redo, if it gets out of whack. It will make you feel better, I promise.
Bury your knots in the batting.
Then try for smaller and smaller as you do more and more projects.
Eventually, speed will come.
I have been hand-quilting and sewing since I was a child. I am 62. And THANK YOU for continuing a wonderful hand-work art.
I earned my consistency. YOU can. too.
My first recommendation is to match the thread to your fabrics until you get more control. Then, it will look better on the front and eventually on the back.
I use thimbles on both hands - middle fingers-- and use a small quilting frame to give the fabric "bounce."
My stitches are 10-12 per inch (counting top and bottom.)
First control stitch angle -always straight -and distance from edge. (allow for seam allowances underneath.) Mark with ruler and washable pen/pencil if needed.
Once you control the stitch angle and distance, work on the consistent length. Even if it is half an inch long, make it always an half an inch in that quilt. Take it out and redo, if it gets out of whack. It will make you feel better, I promise.
Bury your knots in the batting.
Then try for smaller and smaller as you do more and more projects.
Eventually, speed will come.
I have been hand-quilting and sewing since I was a child. I am 62. And THANK YOU for continuing a wonderful hand-work art.
I earned my consistency. YOU can. too.
Last edited by laffygiraffe; 06-20-2012 at 09:46 AM.
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