oldsewnsew,

Here is the link to the thread I posted about recovering the case for the black SEWMOR 404:
{ http://www.quiltingboard.com/vintage...x-t202882.html }

The case I put the Silver SEWMOR in is just a good one I got somewhere. I'll have to look through my files and see if have any pics of it. If not I'll take some.


Joe

American Beauty 15 Clone
 

My most recent 15 clone. With the motor rewired and some cleaning, it will be a beauty. Have already adjusted and sewn with it. It sews like one would expect - GREAT!!!! Note the two holes where the American Beauty decal is. They are threaded and I assume are there to accept a metal badge. The under-carriage sports "Eagle." I could find no JA number. There is an American Beauty rose in the center of the base plate. Decals and paint are intact. Not sure what I'll do with it, but it was too nice to pass.:o[ATTACH=CONFIG]438130[/ATTACH]

Here is the Modern Deluxe 60 I picked up on Friday.
Won the bid at an Estate Auction on line.
Machine, cabinet, buyers premium, & tax was $19.33.

Greetings, Clone enthusiasts! I've enjoyed looking at all the machines and was inspired to buy one, a Mercury, when it turned up on CL yesterday. I have taken some pictures, but they're stuck in my phone for the moment. I'll post them soon, but meanwhile, if you go to post #203 in this thread, Carolyn S has pictures of hers, which is almost exactly the same. Her decals are in better condition, and the badge on mine is a "gold" vertical oval that says "The Precision Home Use Sewing Machine Mercury Electric Reg. Trademark". The case is similar, with the faux brown alligator, but there's a front flap that opens to reveal a little drawer, which was empty except for a spool of vintage Walmart thread.

The machine has a serial number along the front, under the bed that says TA 37451. Since some of the Japanese made machines have a JA on them, I wondered if it was possible that the TA could indicate a different location, possibly Taiwan? My motor says Universal rather than Morse.

Mine has no attachments. I'm having to buy a new bobbin case and thread tension assembly, and have ordered them. The foot that was on it was a zigzag foot from a much newer machine, but that's just as well because the first thing the seller did when he was showing it to me was push the pedal to show that it runs, which it did, with the foot down on bare feed dogs and not a drop of oil anywhere in at least 10 years. He admitted that he'd had it that long and never did anything with it. I said "It's not good to run them without oil," and he said, "Yeah, but I wanted to show you that it works!"

The needle was in backwards - maybe. The seller didn't have the manual for this machine, but I happen to have a manual from a Singer 15-90. According to that, the flat side of the needle faces left and the thread goes in from right to left, but the picture seems to indicate the needle clamp thread guide is on the other side from what's on the Mercury. When I got home I threaded it up according to this manual and put in a bobbin case from another machine that happened to fit, as far as I can tell. Even with a completely rusty tension mechanism I was able to get it to pull up the bobbin thread. So that's an encouraging sign, but I suspect that I do have the needle in backwards and the thread going the wrong way. If so, I have to say this machine is already less persnickety than any other I have tried. According to a youtube video I found for threading a Singer 15K, the needle went in opposite from what it does on the 15-90. Is that correct? I think with this one I'll try it the other way and see if it makes stitches. I don't think it's going to be a serious problem as long as it's not hitting anything.

The wiring is highly questionable, and the old round plug is cracked. I don't plan to run it until I take care of that. Instead of plugging into the motor, it's hard wired to the case under the bed. If any of the gurus on this list would like to offer some advice about what wire to use and where to get it and so on, I'm eager to know. Does this type of motor need grease or other attention? Thanks, you all!

My Precision/Montgomery Ward 15-clone has the needle inserted with the flat side facing right, and is threaded from left to right..

I'm thinking mine are all that way, too.

Thanks Mimack and Miriam, I'm sure this one is supposed to go that way, too. It just feels right. I was very surprised that the manual for the 15-90 indicated that other direction because it just doesn't make sense with the thread coming from that face plate area, but I don't have a 15-90, so maybe I'm missing something. The manual was included one time when I bought some attachments on eBay.

Some of the Singer 15s do thread the other way but the clones seem to pretty much go needle inserted with the flat side facing right, and is threaded from left to right

I hope my pics come through.

Paid $19.33 (machine, stand, buyers premium, & tax)
for this Modern at an estate sale on line.

Picked her up last Friday.

Whooopppsss, Sorry, posted twice.

Oh, dear. I think I'm going to have to find me a clone in some jazzy paint. I just love the look of these teal ones. They remind me of Christmas ornaments.

Meanwhile, I'm please to announce that the Mercury does make some pretty good stitches by my just putting the needle in flat side to the right and threading from left to right (only using the hand wheel so far because of the bad wiring). The fact that she sews is amazing to me because I've had little experience with taking tension thingies apart. I had to take it off because someone had trapped the little side thread guide spring under the L shaped guide. It may have been that way, with the spring under stress, for more than 10 years. There are no numbers on the tension, so I just turned it until it looked and felt about right, another bit of serendipity because these discs are rusty as all get out. (New ones are on the way.) Anyway, here are some pictures as she looks newly acquired. I think she looks a little better in person than she does with the flash, but I may be biased. The last picture shows the cover with the flap open, revealing the funky little drawer.

I just bought an Ambassador from 1958. The original owner's grandson has been lugging it around since the mid-70's. For $25 I got a nearly perfect machine with wiring in excellent shape, the original "tortoise" case, my favorite style of foot controller and grandma's sewing basket full of yarn, thread, thimbles and the owner's manual. Count me as a happy camper!!!

Annette - you have to post pictures when you make a post like that! We're curious.

Congrats on the cool find.

Darren

Hey lets not talk about how much or how little we spend on these machines - what ever you got it for is a whole lot less than it would be worth in the dollars spent on it when it was new. I see the clones in all kinds of conditions. I have yet to have one for parts. They are good machines - easy to use and easy to take care of. I think they are right there on the top of my favorite list for straight stitch machines. End of rant.

Here they are!![ATTACH=CONFIG]440906[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]440907[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]440908[/ATTACH]

There were precious old sewing scissors, very cool thimbles, a monogrammed pin cushion and a curious business card. It was for a Croatian radiologist (love my DH Army experience paying off). So many questions unanswered... This sweet machine is Featherweight sized and easy to tote and use. I won't be sewing much until that motor quits sparking so much.

The pics and comments on this tread are the reason this Ambassador came home. I know that these machines are dependably quiet, solid, and incredibly hardy stitchers. They are also affordable!!! I've converted some of my "gotta be new" sewing friends to these clones. And, I can afford to give them as gifts!

Is it typical for the motor/light plugs to have no cardboard protectors?

Older plugs come that way. I cut circles from cereal boxes for the cardboard covers. Works for me and have had no problems with the plugs.
Chris

seems like if the plug is in a case it has a cardboard back and if it is a cabinet no cardboard or is it the other way around??? I've seen both.

Yes the machines are very affordable. But it would be nice for once if we didn't have one up man/womanship about how cheap they find them. Prices can vary from one part of the country, one condition to another and from one person to another, from one machine to another. I would prefer not to ever talk about prices on QB I think anybody can say anything about how much or how little they spend. Keep it simple that way nobody feels bad when they didn't get accessories, a cabinet and an original manual, etc but spent $5, $10, $50 more than someone else. The machines come up at very reasonable prices all over the country if a person watches. Some of them come up serviced and ready to use for reasonable prices, too. There are a lot of forums where you do not talk about prices at all. I think it is a good idea.

I would not recommend putting cardboard in there as a replacement as it is flammable. The old plugs had a piece of asbestos that looked like thin cardboard there but often is lost along the way. I would recommend new replacement plug ends that are non polarized that you can get at a hardware store that are easy to install and are much, much safer.
~G~

You can get some electric motor cleaner at an auto parts store, and that might help. Take the motor off of the machine, remove the brushes, and take it outside. Spray the holes that the brushes came out of while turning the shaft to clean the armature contacts. Wipe off the brushes and let it dry THOROUGHLY. Perhaps 2-3 hours. Replace the brushes and install it back in the machine. Run it wide open for about 2-3 minutes and it should help dramatically.
~G~

That is what we do - you can buy the whole unit from sew-classic and other places

I understand your position and the passion behind it. But please consider this. If I had not read this thread and realized HOW little could be spent, I never would have purchased my first Morse. Sometimes, IMHO, cost should be discussed. It seems like a differing of opinions doesn't have to be exclusive. The correct solution would be to start a thread for discussion! Different isn't wrong, it's just different. And that's what makes our lives interesting.

Grant, I did use electrical cleaner on the motor already. It needs new carbon brushes. When reinstalling them, one was literally crumbling to bits. Just purchased a bundle of them on EBay, including new springs. I think a motor rebuilding day will be in my future. Caroline S. just needs to come over and join me!!

I found that several of the steel parts of my Mercury (in post #411) are stamped "Toyota", and I wondered whether that is common to many of the clones. The Universal motor and the foot pedal both say "Made in USA". Were those added after import or did the Japanese companies buy them from the US and ship the machines complete? What about the attachments? I don't have any, but wondered if they were shipped with Japanese made attachments and what was typically included. My machine didn't even have it's original straight stitch foot.

I was trying to track down more information on the machine, and found this http://www.ehow.com/how_7821389_iden...-machines.html My machine is not marked as described, but I now believe that the TA at the start of the serial number refers to Toyota, and that it is definitely a Japanese clone. I was surprised about the Mercury brand starting in Chicago much earlier, and wondered what sort of machines they made there. Were they also Singer copies? And when they started making Mercuries in Japan, was that outsourcing by the Chicago company, still retaining their brand identity, and perhaps still maintaining a Chicago headquarters and doing the marketing there?

I don't have a manual for this machine, and wonder whether anyone could point me toward one. The Singer 15-91 manual I have is almost no help at all, and the Singer 15 tensioner that I bought does not fit. Luckily, the original tensioner seems to be okay, but could be better.

Set the day and time I will be there. I need to get out of the house!!!

I need one of those rebuild days here, too...

http://www.quiltingboard.com/vintage...y-t199702.html

Rose, here is a link to my Mercury Electric. It is also stamped with a TA #. The motor is a Morse.

Once those brushes and springs arrive, rebuilding shall commence! I'll also crank up my new soldering iron and do rewiring. I have at least one of Caroline's motors over here just waiting for attention.

Yours has prettier decals on the bed, and my motor is Universal, but other than that they could be twins.

Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! to Grant15clone for the helpful tips and for sending me the links to manuals!

Free Clone Manuals.

Rose, You are welcome. I was glad to help.
For anyone that is looking for a manual for a Clone, Here are two good ones, and are free.

http://www.ismacs.net/singer_sewing_...ion-manual.pdf

http://bypatrice.com/sewing/deluxe_manual/

~G~

That second one is exactly the manual I got with a couple clones!

Thanks, Grant! I thought I'd just put in this reply to add a little emphasis on this important information in case anyone missed it! When I saw what the plug looked like on mine I shuddered to realize that the guy who sold it had plugged it in and run it like that. Couldn't these iron machines conduct electricity right through the body of them?

Miriam, I agree with you about the discussion of what we paid. I had the unpleasant experience of donating a Singer Red Eye head to my guild's fundraising garage sale because it needed more work than I felt up to at the time, and when I mentioned what I'd paid for it (because I wanted them to get the best possible value out of it without asking way too much), the person organizing the sale assured me that I'd paid too much, and that they wouldn't be able to get that much for it. I don't know what they asked, but it disappeared within the first 10 minutes of the sale!

A thing is worth whatever someone is willing to pay, and there are a lot of factors that go into it. If you're happy to get something at whatever price, then that was the right price for you, and it's not nice to rain on someone's parade by saying they paid too much. There's always someone who got one like it for less, but it proves nothing, except they were luckier one time.

That said, I've noticed that on this board, what people usually have to say about someone else's lucky find is: "I'm happy for you!" If it's a problem here, I haven't seen it. Just the same, maybe it unnecessarily causes some disappointment to read about someone getting the same thing for less.

Thank you - you put it into words.

You are welcome and I like the warning being bold and red, emphasizing the possible danger.
I also agree with the price conversation that Miriam brought up. I know that in different parts of the country the same machine will sell for different average prices. I have talked to people in Southern states and they have trouble finding ANY vintage machines at all. That would drive up the price on them. So, if they found machine X for $100 there it might be an absolute steal. Where machine X in another part of the country, the price might be $50 and it could be overpriced. Geography has a lot to do with value and prices. I have a good idea what is a good deal and what is not in my area. Also there are people here from other countries. Australia for instance. What a difference in prices! I understand that they have a hard time getting Singer 66 red eye's there, where here you can't swing a cat without hitting one. Thus they have to pay more for them. Discussing what you paid is not a really good idea unless we all live in the same area. And how much fun would that be competing for the same machines?:thumbdown:
~G~

Salvage 1
 

Hi all....a little story, while cleaning out my in-law's estate, I found these two sewing machine cases. They were very heavy, but I opened them up and found these beautifully scrolled and shiny machines. They were both missing foot pedals and a few minor items, but I thought they must be worth something. I started searching for info on these two machines to see if I could find any manual or parts to complete them and low and behold, I came across this forum! After reading all 44 pages, I knew I had to salvage these beauties if not for myself (I never sewed a stitch in my life, but needed to many times ) for a friend or relative who was in need of a machine. I bought a foot pedal and swapped parts between the machines until I had a complete working clone. After threading and some testing I found it worked great. I then put it to the test and sewed some new velcro tabs on my motorcycle jacket. WOW! :shock: I was impressed. the only problem encountered was I couldn't get enough pressure on the foot and the needle would pull it up on the way up, but a light pressure from a free finger solved that issue. I am now happy to say at least one of these beauties will be joining our family along side our Singer Stylist ( which I just replaced the plastic feed gears in ). I haven't seen any pics of either of these models, so felt compelled to share these. The Packard is from Occupied Japan, the Coronado was made in Japan. Still gathering parts to complete the Coronado, tension spring/knob and belt so I can test that one. Thanks Everyone for all the pics and info, it helped me immensely! :thumbup:

[ATTACH=CONFIG]442005[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]442006[/ATTACH]

Welcome. Beautiful machines. I haven't met a clone yet I couldn't make work. Your Packard needs the thingy sticking up above the pressure foot bar pushed down and it will sew like a dream. You should teach yourself to sew. It is a lot of fun and can be very relaxing. There is a lot of info on line how to sew. Once you know how to work the machine the rest is just practice. The clones are the easiest machines to use that I know of. They sew on about anything.

Actually, I had it pushed down all the way for sewing, but I hate to leave tension on any spring when not in use, so I popped them both up. I need to get some scraps of material so I can lower the feet when they are sitting idle also. I assumed either that spring was weak, or the sticky back velcro plus the heavy leather was too much for it? It went thru easily on the way down, just lifted the material and foot on the way back up, also broke the thread a few times. How ever, my sleeves now stay closed while riding, and with the temps dropping, that's a good thing!

Sewing on velcro can be pretty tricky no matter what you put it on or what machine you use. You may need to sew between the rows and use a bigger needle - in your case a leather needle. It is just about impossible to sew through the sticky kind of velcro - try a needle lube product to keep the goo off the needle.
I wouldn't worry a whole lot about leaving that spring part down all the time I would worry more about forgetting to put it back down.

http://www.quiltingboard.com/main-f1...o-t168663.html
info about sewing on velcro - you can also search Google for info

LOL, I think you have a good point, my memory sure isn't what it used to be. :hunf: Thanks for the velcro link, I will definitely check that out.